Honda Africa Twin Forum banner
  • Hey everyone! Enter your ride HERE to be a part of July's Ride of the Month Challenge! Theme: Drop it like it's hot!
1 - 20 of 27 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
14 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi guys, I'm new to the forum.
I just swapped my old battery (dead) with a LiFePO4 battery and I left my bike without battery for one week because had to wait the new battery. Once connected back the new battery I had to reset the clock and then everything was ok. Rode the bike for 3 miles and then the ABS light went flashing since then. No dust on the ABS sensors, pressure ok, tyres not changed, brakes just work normally. Bike runs as normal. TC works (tried to throttle up on gravel and it enters cutting down engine as usual).
Then: i know that, in order to access diagnostics onboard, you just have to short two pins on the red connector under seat. So I did.

54866


Then I switched on and had this result:

6-1 followed by 6-2, then it repeats. Here is a video of the 6-2


Any idea of what could be? The closest error I find is 66-1
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
6,387 Posts
A very good record of your situation. I don't have a reference to the error codes, however, there will likely be a forum member to come along to share its meaning.

I reckon the ABS functionality is now bypassed when braking? (with the instrument cluster indicator LED on)

Also, welcome to the Forum Ferro.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
14 Posts
Discussion Starter · #3 ·
thanks for the welcome message! :D

here is a screen capture for the message I'm guessing to find

54867


The fact that i read 6-1 and 6-2 maybe it's just 66?
 

·
Keeping’em Moderatorated
2018 Adventure Sports DCT
Joined
·
2,985 Posts
Hi guys, I'm new to the forum.
I just swapped my old battery (dead) with a LiFePO4 battery and I left my bike without battery for one week because had to wait the new battery. Once connected back the new battery I had to reset the clock and then everything was ok. Rode the bike for 3 miles and then the ABS light went flashing since then. No dust on the ABS sensors, pressure ok, tyres not changed, brakes just work normally. Bike runs as normal. TC works (tried to throttle up on gravel and it enters cutting down engine as usual).
Then: i know that, in order to access diagnostics onboard, you just have to short two pins on the red connector under seat. So I did.

View attachment 54866

Then I switched on and had this result:

6-1 followed by 6-2, then it repeats. Here is a video of the 6-2


Any idea of what could be? The closest error I find is 66-1
How many more miles have you put on it since then?

on my 18ATAS I had an error code with the front wheel sensor ( because of an issue I created ). Basically I created a false error code when nothing was wrong. Eventually the ECU learned this and shut the light off, it took about a couple of hours of riding before it did and after my adapter came for the AT harness I plugged my OBD II scanner into the bike and erased the old fault ( really I didn’t have to but doe it anyway ).
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
14 Posts
Discussion Starter · #5 ·
i did 80 miles and the error is there still now... bike goes as before, no issues but i didnt try the abs function - any suggestion on how to try it on the road in a safe way?
i tried to manually erase the DTC but it didnt work, i've read how to short the pins on the service manual but i cant reproduce the reset procedure.

I'll try again to erase the DTC

54868
 

·
Keeping’em Moderatorated
2018 Adventure Sports DCT
Joined
·
2,985 Posts
If you get the harness attachment you can plug in a OBD II reader into and and clear the code.
Also that harness by itself works like you using the jumper wire, just plugging it in and not even hooking a reader to it will cause the dash to blink the codes.
here is how I got my error code to begin with.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
14 Posts
Discussion Starter · #8 · (Edited)
yeah thanks!
maybe it's the new battery that gives incorrect voltage?
i'll check it! thanks for now, that's the error codes i was looking for! 6-1 and 6-2!

edit: voltage checked right now
engine off: 13.3v
engine on: 13.6v
 

·
Administrator
Joined
·
3,301 Posts
The first bit you posted I believe was DTC 6-1 for the DCT rather than the ABS, which was why there was no 6-2.

Sent from my SM-N975U1 using Tapatalk
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
14 Posts
Discussion Starter · #10 ·
just tried to reset ABS and gone for a ride, but the error still occurs.

I have 6-1 followed by 6-2 in sequence. Then it repeats again.
 

·
Administrator
Joined
·
3,301 Posts
You erased the DCT with the SCS connector and still have the errors?

If so, the flowchart points to ABS modulator?

Sent from my SM-N975U1 using Tapatalk
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
577 Posts
Maybe time to put in a good ol'
i did 80 miles and the error is there still now... bike goes as before, no issues but i didnt try the abs function - any suggestion on how to try it on the road in a safe way?
i tried to manually erase the DTC but it didnt work, i've read how to short the pins on the service manual but i cant reproduce the reset procedure.

I'll try again to erase the DTC

View attachment 54868
The procedure above is not the correct one to clear 6-1 & 6-2 (ABS related)
You need to follow pg 20-7
How to erase the DTC without MCS
1. Connect the SCS connector to the DLC (page 4-6).
2. Turn the ignition switch ON and engine stop switch " " while squeezing either brake lever. The ABS indicator should come on
for 2 seconds and go off.
3. Release the brake lever immediately after the ABS indicator goes off. The ABS indicator should come on.
4. Squeeze the brake lever immediately after the ABS indicator comes on. The ABS indicator should go off.
5. Release the brake lever immediately after the ABS indicator goes off.
When the DTC is erased, the ABS indicator blinks 2 times and stays on.
If the ABS indicator does not blink 2 times, the self-diagnostic memory has not been erased, so try again.
6. Turn the ignition switch OFF and disconnect the SCS connector.
Install the removed parts in the reverse order of removal.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
14 Posts
Discussion Starter · #13 · (Edited)
i did reset the ABS successfully (i saw the right procedure with the levers etc etc) with no change (still abs blinking after 6mph).

HOWEVER.

I did replace the battery with the old one. Exhausted, gives 12,5v fully charge and it's good to turn on the front lights but it wont start the bike. I could start it with a Noco Genius GB20 kickstarter unit. Ran for 3 miles with no issues, went above 20 mph.
So now i think the issue is the new Unibat ULT2 LiFePo4 battery...
Just a dumb question: LiFePO4 batteries do work on AT DCT 2016 right?

thanks to all, guys :)
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
6,387 Posts
Great find Cuch.

Lithium batteries require a specific charging algorithm. A question is do the late model ATs provide that, and hence, not available on the earlier models? Or is this a moot point because some riders (even of other bike models) have no problem? Or are other riders riding on luck?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
14 Posts
Discussion Starter · #15 ·
just had confirmation of the battery.
reset ABS.
mounted old battery.
no issues.
reset ABS.
mounted unibat lithium battery.
half a mile abs blinking.

no accessories were connected to the battery at the time.
 

·
Administrator
Joined
·
3,301 Posts
Now an interesting experiement would be with a replacement battery from that company and if it also has the issue, a LifePo battery from another manufacturer. Because EarthX for example claim theirs work with the CRF1000L 2016/17

Sent from my SM-N975U1 using Tapatalk
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
14 Posts
Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Just had a 2 hours ride with the old battery on. Noco GB20 with me, just in case...
I confirm all OK with the stock battery.
So, the options are:
  • faulty LiFePO4 Battery ULT2 from Unibat
  • incompatibility of ULT2 battery from Unibat
  • issues with LiFePO4 batteries (anyone here mounts one of those on '16/'17 bikes?) for the minor Ah (maybe ABS requires more?)
  • built-in restrictions by Honda (not stated) because the battery runs very hot and Lithium batteries are subject to heat. So it would be a safety measure to prevent people from mounting it

Any other option that comes to your mind?
 

·
Administrator
Joined
·
3,301 Posts
I haven't tried a LiFePO4 in a 2016/17 model yet. I traded my 2016 for a 2019 ATAS before the OEM battery died. The ATAS has a Lithium Ion battery.

My wife has a 2017 and her OEM battery is still kicking. Our plan was to replace it with an EarthX LiFePO4 when it did die. As mentioned above they claim their ETX18F batteries are compatible with the Africa Twin CRF1000L 2016/17 models. But I have no first hand experience with it since we haven't had to buy a replacement yet.

Shorai recomends their LFX19A4-BS12




Sent from my SM-N975U1 using Tapatalk
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
14 Posts
Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Thanks man.
Also the battery I installed was certified for my bike.
I just finished writing a mail to the battery maker to inquire about this issue.
Will update you asap.

Thanks for all the support!
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
6,387 Posts
I haven't tried a LiFePO4 in a 2016/17 model yet. I traded my 2016 for a 2019 ATAS before the OEM battery died. The ATAS has a Lithium Ion battery.

My wife has a 2017 and her OEM battery is still kicking. Our plan was to replace it with an EarthX LiFePO4 when it did die. As mentioned above they claim their ETX18F batteries are compatible with the Africa Twin CRF1000L 2016/17 models. But I have no first hand experience with it since we haven't had to buy a replacement yet.



Sent from my SM-N975U1 using Tapatalk
Yeah, it looks like EarthX has the onboard technology to manage the charge algorithm using the incoming source from the bike's system generation circuit.


EarthX appears to have done all the work for the end user.
 
1 - 20 of 27 Posts
Top