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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
My 2016 Honda Africa Twin DCT has been in the dealership for a month now. When you come to a stop the gearing goes to natural position, and you go nowhere’s. If you turn the engine off for about thirty minutes, all works perfect until you come to the next stop. The dealership have done everything from putting in a new battery, changing the shifting motor, to changing the oil. No luck. They now want to put in a electric control module. The problem comes in is that even if it is not the problem, Honda will not let them return any electric part. So, if it does not work, I still get to pay $1200 for the module.
I can not blame the dealership as they have honestly been trying. What upsets me is the lack of support that Honda Technical is giving the dealership. I even wrote Honda, and got a return phone call from Honda telling me that the unit was out of warranty and Honda was not responsible and had no obligation . Seems like they could send some kind to tech person to help to help the dealership, as none of the dealerships phone calls to Honda Tech have been of any success.

Anyone have any ideas....
 

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Lots of folks are getting shut down by the Multi billion dollar company, all for different things on the AT. They just say "its within spec" or "out of warranty....to bad sucker". Me thinks that the almighty CORPORATE GREED virus has spread world wide.....in EVERY company.

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The bike is 4 years old. How far beyond the warranty period do you guys expect a company to provide free service? When they draw the line they are just greedy? Gimme a break.


To 'Old Can Ride' -- The solution is to find another Africa Twin to use for some part swapping. I don't know if the ECM is specific to 2016 models or if it spans a few years but the dealer could check part numbers. If the dealer has one on their lot convince them to use it as a temporary donor. Maybe a local rider or another local dealer has one that could be made available.


Unfortunately, these days we have overly complicated vehicles. The old shade tree method of swapping parts until the problem goes away can be more efficient than any other diagnosis.
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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
I was not asking Honda to pay or warranty anything. Just think that Honda Technical should offer a little verbal help, but none now days. I was a Honda dealer for almost 20 years, and back then Honda Tech would try and help by phone on these kind of problems when no one had an answer at the dealership. A few times Honda even sent a factory tech to my dealership to help out when we could not figure out a problem. Now that Mr. Honda is dead and attorneys run Honda, all is so much different........... Yes, the unit is quite unit specific and we can not find a dealership close that has one who will do any part swapping. I, nor the dealership (one of Honda’s oldest dealerships) has an answer....... And yes, I am Honda Pro certified and so is the tech at the dealership.......... Just in my 70’s now, and not so easy to lay down and fix stuff.....
 

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This sort of story does make the Honda Care Protection Plan for coverage a worthwhile consideration since it costs less than that module for up to 5 years, unlimited miles coverage.
 

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I was not asking Honda to pay or warranty anything. Just think that Honda Technical should offer a little verbal help, but none now days. I was a Honda dealer for almost 20 years, and back then Honda Tech would try and help by phone on these kind of problems when no one had an answer at the dealership. A few times Honda even sent a factory tech to my dealership to help out when we could not figure out a problem. Now that Mr. Honda is dead and attorneys run Honda, all is so much different........... Yes, the unit is quite unit specific and we can not find a dealership close that has one who will do any part swapping. I, nor the dealership (one of Honda’s oldest dealerships) has an answer....... And yes, I am Honda Pro certified and so is the tech at the dealership.......... Just in my 70’s now, and not so easy to lay down and fix stuff.....
Gotcha. Years ago I was in a similar situation with the wife's Prius. Local dealer couldn't diagnose the problem. Help from Toyota technical support had them replacing one thing after another - at my cost. Eventually they found the failing component. The whole fiasco cost me about $5K. If they had guessed right on the first component replaced it would have only been $2K. It wouldn't be that hard for dealer tech support folks to have a pool of known good spares to assist the dealers in diagnosing computerized systems.
 

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The bike is 4 years old. How far beyond the warranty period do you guys expect a company to provide free service? When they draw the line they are just greedy? Gimme a break.


To 'Old Can Ride' -- The solution is to find another Africa Twin to use for some part swapping. I don't know if the ECM is specific to 2016 models or if it spans a few years but the dealer could check part numbers. If the dealer has one on their lot convince them to use it as a temporary donor. Maybe a local rider or another local dealer has one that could be made available.


Unfortunately, these days we have overly complicated vehicles. The old shade tree method of swapping parts until the problem goes away can be more efficient than any other diagnosis.
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So car companies can offer 3,4,5 year or 100,000 mile warranties, and stand behind their product a little while and motorcycle companies don't have the balls to. Ok. Gotcha.

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So car companies can offer 3,4,5 year or 100,000 mile warranties, and stand behind their product a little while and motorcycle companies don't have the balls to. Ok. Gotcha.

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It's got nothing to do with balls and everything to do with being competitive in their own market.

If a car company only had a 1 year warranty how many cars would they sell? Yeah, not many because all the competition would be offering a lot more.
Motorcycle companies are no different but they are competing against each other. Where is the incentive for any of them to offer a 5 year 100,000 mile warranty?


Of course, Honda does have the balls to offer a 5 year warranty to anyone who has the balls to pay for it.
 

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So car companies can offer 3,4,5 year or 100,000 mile warranties, and stand behind their product a little while and motorcycle companies don't have the balls to. Ok. Gotcha.

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You can buy a 5-year unlimited mileage warranty for your Honda motorcycle if you choose to, but they don't offer it standard, for a number of reasons. ProCycle hit on one of them, nobody else is doing 5 years standard. I would guess price point, the average length of motorcycle ownership, wear and tear (how many times have you dropped your car in a parking lot?) and other factors play into this decision. But ProCycle probably hit the main one. If Honda/Suzuki/Yamaha increased their standard warranty to 4 years, others would surely follow.

But not all manufacturers will even offer OEM unlimited mileage warranties up to 5 years.
 

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It's got nothing to do with balls and everything to do with being competitive in their own market.

If a car company only had a 1 year warranty how many cars would they sell? Yeah, not many because all the competition would be offering a lot more.
Motorcycle companies are no different but they are competing against each other. Where is the incentive for any of them to offer a 5 year 100,000 mile warranty?


Of course, Honda does have the balls to offer a 5 year warranty to anyone who has the balls to pay for it.
Oh Balls....gottcha.

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You can buy a 5-year unlimited mileage warranty for your Honda motorcycle if you choose to, but they don't offer it standard, for a number of reasons. ProCycle hit on one of them, nobody else is doing 5 years standard. I would guess price point, the average length of motorcycle ownership, wear and tear (how many times have you dropped your car in a parking lot?) and other factors play into this decision. But ProCycle probably hit the main one. If Honda/Suzuki/Yamaha increased their standard warranty to 4 years, others would surely follow.



But not all manufacturers will even offer OEM unlimited mileage warranties up to 5 years.
Oh balls. Car, bike, sales competition..... oh yea...BIG DIFFERENCE...uh huh.....gotcha.

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
BMW Motorrad’s 3-year/36,000-mile ultimate warranty helps protect new motorcycle owners against the cost of repairs and replacement parts. Another great feature of this warranty is that it is transferrable to subsequent owners, during this time window.

Even Harley Davidson comes with a two year warranty that is transferable !!!!!!

With declining sales, maybe, just maybe the Japanese will soon catch on ??????????
 

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BMW Motorrad’s 3-year/36,000-mile ultimate warranty helps protect new motorcycle owners against the cost of repairs and replacement parts. Another great feature of this warranty is that it is transferrable to subsequent owners, during this time window.



Even Harley Davidson comes with a two year warranty that is transferable !!!!!!



With declining sales, maybe, just maybe the Japanese will soon catch on ??????????
Can't do emoji here....so....thumbs up.

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I don't want balls from any company let alone Honda. Mine came with zero warranty.

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DCT's typically check these for whether to leave neutral:

1) are RPM's too high or too low - does the display seem to match what the engine is doing.
2) is the sidestand down (doesn't match the symptom of working after sitting a while though)
3) oil pressure
4) oil level
5) engine temperature

Check all of these whether the shop said they checked them or not. Do you have to wait - or if you turn it all the way off with the key and try it again - will it restart?


Have you tried to reset the DCT?


DCT Reset Sequence CRF1000L DCT

1) Warm the engine up to normal operating temperature (Engine oil temp 50-110C / 112-230F) then STOP it.
Note: If the large “L” (extremely low oil temp indicator) or small “L” (low oil temp indicator) is displayed on the shift indicator then the engine must be warmed up further before proceeding.

Stop the engine (Using the ignition key)
With the engine warmed up and STOPPED (Ignition off) —->

2) Turn the Ignition Switch ON (with engine stop switch in the run position) (do not start the engine) whilst at the same time holding down D on the N-D Switch. Keep holding the D switch on. The MIL will then come on. Wait until the MIL goes off and release the D switch.

3) Operate the N-D switch in the following sequence:
Push D then release
Push D
Push N
Push D
Push N

The PCM is ready to initialize the ‘clutches learning process’ when the “D” and “S” indicators light up AND the “_” is displayed on the shift indicator AND blinks at 2 second intervals.

Note: If at any point you get the Low oil temp indicator (“L”) come on, stop the process. START the engine, warm it back up to operating temperature (so that no low oil temp indicator is displayed), STOP the engine (Using the ignition key) and repeat steps 2 & 3 again.

4) Start the engine and let it idle. The “_” on the shift indicator will start blinking at 2 second intervals.
The Clutch initializing learning process is complete when “_” “D” and “S” indicators all go off.
STOP the engine (Using the ignition key)

Note: The clutch initialization learning process is unsuccessful if the “_” starts blinking at 0.5 sec intervals or goes off and the “D” and “S’ symbols stay on. If so, perform the initialization learning procedure from Step 2 again.

5) STOP the Engine (Using the ignition Key)
6) Restart the Engine, Push the D switch, release and check that the “D” indicator comes on. If it does... then you’re good to go!
 

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It's just a shame y'all have to go through that. Especially if you're with buddies at a gas station.

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DCT's typically check these for whether to leave neutral:

1) are RPM's too high or too low - does the display seem to match what the engine is doing.
2) is the sidestand down (doesn't match the symptom of working after sitting a while though)
3) oil pressure
4) oil level
5) engine temperature

Check all of these whether the shop said they checked them or not. Do you have to wait - or if you turn it all the way off with the key and try it again - will it restart?


Have you tried to reset the DCT?


DCT Reset Sequence CRF1000L DCT

1) Warm the engine up to normal operating temperature (Engine oil temp 50-110C / 112-230F) then STOP it.
Note: If the large “L” (extremely low oil temp indicator) or small “L” (low oil temp indicator) is displayed on the shift indicator then the engine must be warmed up further before proceeding.

Stop the engine (Using the ignition key)
With the engine warmed up and STOPPED (Ignition off) —->

2) Turn the Ignition Switch ON (with engine stop switch in the run position) (do not start the engine) whilst at the same time holding down D on the N-D Switch. Keep holding the D switch on. The MIL will then come on. Wait until the MIL goes off and release the D switch.

3) Operate the N-D switch in the following sequence:
Push D then release
Push D
Push N
Push D
Push N

The PCM is ready to initialize the ‘clutches learning process’ when the “D” and “S” indicators light up AND the “_” is displayed on the shift indicator AND blinks at 2 second intervals.

Note: If at any point you get the Low oil temp indicator (“L”) come on, stop the process. START the engine, warm it back up to operating temperature (so that no low oil temp indicator is displayed), STOP the engine (Using the ignition key) and repeat steps 2 & 3 again.

4) Start the engine and let it idle. The “_” on the shift indicator will start blinking at 2 second intervals.
The Clutch initializing learning process is complete when “_” “D” and “S” indicators all go off.
STOP the engine (Using the ignition key)

Note: The clutch initialization learning process is unsuccessful if the “_” starts blinking at 0.5 sec intervals or goes off and the “D” and “S’ symbols stay on. If so, perform the initialization learning procedure from Step 2 again.

5) STOP the Engine (Using the ignition Key)
6) Restart the Engine, Push the D switch, release and check that the “D” indicator comes on. If it does... then you’re good to go!

Is it safe to do this procedure on a DCT that is not currently exhibiting faults?



I've been wanting to reset mine as it gets pretty jerky at low speed and sometimes stalls when pulling off from a standstill. Would you recommend this?
 

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Is it safe to do this procedure on a DCT that is not currently exhibiting faults?



I've been wanting to reset mine as it gets pretty jerky at low speed and sometimes stalls when pulling off from a standstill. Would you recommend this?
Yes - some people do it just to make the take off's smoother. First I would remove all slack from the throttle cable - to where there is no play at all. Ride by wire throttles all seem to be a bit jerky to me at the on off transition when there's any slack.
 
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