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Hi all!

I’m a proud new owner of a 2018 ATAS and I have a small concern with my bike. It’s got less than 200 miles currently on the odometer. At 30-45mph rolling down the highway I’ve noticed a bit of a front wheel hop as if it were out of balance. Today when I got home I took a glance at the front end and the axle but was so loose it was free spinning. I followed the manual for the wheel install by loosening the pinch bolts re-torqued the axle nut and pinch bolts. After this it still has the front wheel bounce.

After further inspection I noticed a small gap on the right side between the fork leg and the wheel bearing spacer. Is this out of spec? I can’t seem to draw the fork legs together enough to close this gap. I’m wondering if the wheel has enough free play here to walk back and forth while I’m riding causing my issue.

Anyone else experiencing this issue?
Already tried talking to the dealer. They don’t seem to want to help me out. Had the salesman tell me the bike came from Honda with the front wheel installed but I talked to Honda’s service line and the gentleman I spoke with told me they all come in the crate with the wheel off and it’s on the dealer to assemble.
 

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The wheel seats up against spacers and shoulders on the axle, so if the nut is tight, it can't move sideways.
Forceably drawing the fork legs together will cause the sliders to bind. That small gap is the clearance to allow the right fork leg to find its own spot on the axle. Don't have an AT shop manual yet, but I would tighten the right pinch bolts to hold the axle as I torqued the nut, then tighten the left pinch bolts. Loosen the right pinch bolts and pump the suspension, then tighten them again.
Don't know whether the balancing weights were put on my bike at the factory or the dealer, but it sounds like you need to check that. A loose axle won't cause the wheel to bounce up and down.
 

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Yes, I have it as well. Even after I went from stock tires to Shinko 804 on front. Other non-AT owners have told me their bikes do it as well. I quit worrying about it after a while.
 

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I had the same problem as well and with any tire i put on. I fixed this issue by rotating the tire on the rim 180 degrees from valve stem ..Also leave the balancing weights on where they are.
 

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I had the same problem as well and with any tire i put on. I fixed this issue by rotating the tire on the rim 180 degrees from valve stem ..Also leave the balancing weights on where they are.
So it must be something about the tires? Maybe that are not balanced, even new?
I've balanced the wheel and made sure the rim is true but
I've given up as to resolving this "wheel hop".
But if there is a good way to avoid it,
I'd take my front tire off; again :)
 

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Get the front wheel off the ground and rotate it slowly, watching the road surface of the tire to see if it's out of round. Not that it would happpen with a tube tire, but a tubeless can sometimes not seat quite right and be just that little bit off.
 

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It may be that the tire is not equally seated on the rim around its circumference. Many tires have a small ridge in the sidewall that should be just outside the lip of the rim to indicate how evenly the bead is seated. If it seats unevenly it will cause the outside circumference of the tire to be non concentric and you’ll have excess runout.

Wheel misbalance usually shows up at somewhat higher speeds than 30 mph, so I’d suspect a runout issue if that is where you are feeling the hop.

Try lifting the front wheel and spinning it, watching the outer surface of the tire for runout. If you have too much it will be felt as wheel hop. You can try to reseat the bead by deflating the tire, breaking the bead, lubing the bead rim with a little soapy water and reinflating it.
 

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Several folks on advrider website have noted what seems like a suspension resonance effect around 40-50 mph speeds, they have balanced and rebalanced front wheel/tire to no avail. Just something to consider instead of chasing wheel balance forever that it may instead be a built in "feature" of the front suspension spring rate/damping/geometry and you just live with it.
 

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Several folks on advrider website have noted what seems like a suspension resonance effect around 40-50 mph speeds, they have balanced and rebalanced front wheel/tire to no avail. Just something to consider instead of chasing wheel balance forever that it may instead be a built in "feature" of the front suspension spring rate/damping/geometry and you just live with it.
Suspension resonance? I don’t think so. That’s a voodoo explanation because they weren’t able to resolve the problem the way they expected to.

Maybe balancing didn’t help because it isnt a balance problem? If it’s an out of round problem with how the tire is mounted, or maybe with the front tire itself, you could balance till the cows come home and still have wheel vibration.
 

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I’m on my 3rd set of tyres and the problem has manifested with all of them. I will support the suspension resonance argument (I’ve tried dialling in more rebound damping to no effect)
Mike
 

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But didn't the one poster say he had even tried different tires? This does not make sense to me! Bizarro! .Then again it seems like to me that EVERYTHING has to have some little model specific quirks. I recon if I buy an AT and the front weel starts hopping? I'll just put that wheel back in the air where it belongs! Saves on tread wear too! :)
 

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Suspension resonance? I don’t think so. That’s a voodoo explanation because they weren’t able to resolve the problem the way they expected to.

Maybe balancing didn’t help because it isnt a balance problem? If it’s an out of round problem with how the tire is mounted, or maybe with the front tire itself, you could balance till the cows come home and still have wheel vibration.
Frame resonance then? Just kidding, it doesn't make a lot of sense to me either. Just pointing out there is some history of this front wheel hop issue on advrider and these guys have ruled out the basic balance and out-of-round potential causes.
 

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I had forgotten about this until I bought a KLR.

The front wheel on that old jalopy is smooth at 30 mph.

Then get back on my new fangled AT and it hops at 30 mph
 

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I just slapped on a new front tire (Shinko705)
Balanced it with the tire and good to go, I thought.
Wheel hop was worse than ever.
Upon examination, it looks like the bead did not set properly, making the tire "out-of-round".
After deflating and re-inflating, and setting the bead correctly, the hop went away- smooth as it should be.
.
So since these are tubed 21" tires, improper bead settlement would be a valid cause.
When "ou-of-round" tire was first mentioned here, I said NoWay! in this day and age.
But my experience today has merit and the fact that cheapo home compressors mostly do not
produce enough pressure (50 psi) to seat the bead properly, a likely scenario.
Hope others will chime in, but problem solved for now.
 
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This may be getting to the crux of the problem here. It may be a problem with the rims that is allowing tires to not properly center.

I picked up my new ‘17, and maybe because I’ve been sensitized to it by these discussions, I feel the hop. It isn’t horrible, and it seems to go away at higher speeds, so it doesn’t worry me all that much.

I have noticed that the suspension as delivered is set-up like crap. It is way too stiff, with too much compression damping at both ends. I don’t know yet if that contributes to this phenomenon as I have not yet adjusted the damping correctly, just dialed out some compression damping to retain my fillings during my first 350 mile shake down ride. But I suspect that it can’t help.
 

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I agree with your assessment about the design of the front rim and not seating certain tires, properly.
.
As far as the new Shinko 705's I mounted, the hop manifested itself again, or never really went away completely.
I put about 800 miles on it over the past weekend.
 

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Could be stiction in the forks causing you to feel every road irregularity, this can be caused by incorrectly tightening the front axle causing the forks to bind which will make it feel like the wheel is hoping when its not, I had that problem when I 1st picked my bike up, I reset the front axle pinch bolts & the hoping went away & the forks have zero stiction now. if its really bad you will see the fork leg move out when you loosen the pinch bolts, This only takes 5 minutes to check
Some bike & tire shops are notorious for not doing it correctly

If that is your problem you will think you have a new bike after doing this

To reset the axle loosen off the right side axle pinch bolts, (Dont touch the left nut side) roll the bike forward & hit the front brake, do that a couple of times & then retighten the pinch bolts, this allows the fork to find a neutral unstressed position on the axle, if you dont do this step after tightening up the axle nut the fork legs will be pulled in towards each other, causing fork stiction & if left that way will cause premature wear of the forks, wear out the bushes, cause the fork seals to leak, strange wear marks etc etc.
 

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Could be stiction in the forks causing you to feel every road irregularity, this can be caused by incorrectly tightening the front axle causing the forks to bind which will make it feel like the wheel is hoping when its not, I had that problem when I 1st picked my bike up, I reset the front axle pinch bolts & the hoping went away & the forks have zero stiction now. if its really bad you will see the fork leg move out when you loosen the pinch bolts, This only takes 5 minutes to check
Some bike & tire shops are notorious for not doing it correctly

If that is your problem you will think you have a new bike after doing this

To reset the axle loosen off the right side axle pinch bolts, (Dont touch the left nut side) roll the bike forward & hit the front brake, do that a couple of times & then retighten the pinch bolts, this allows the fork to find a neutral unstressed position on the axle, if you dont do this step after tightening up the axle nut the fork legs will be pulled in towards each other, causing fork stiction & if left that way will cause premature wear of the forks, wear out the bushes, cause the fork seals to leak, strange wear marks etc etc.

Great advice yetboy01.

On a side note, those that have fitted after market wheels, such as tubeless Alpina wheels etc, are you encountering this issue, or are you running nice and smoothly?
 
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