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Those look awesome! The Kineo spoke arrangement is very unique looking.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 · (Edited)
Looks great! Matt Black rim, Matt Black hub, Matt Black spokes and Glass Black spoke ends???
yes.. unfortunately the rear sprocket wasn't black too... not the end of the world. :wink2:

here are photos of the wheels as they were delivered.
 

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Those wheels look great. So does the whole bike.I went the Alpina tubeless route with Gold rims, stainless spokes and black nipples. I initially thought gold looked best but maybe black is better. The Kineos cost more than alpinas but they are a better long term option (no rubber seals).
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
"Long term reliability" was the only reason for choosing them. It certainly wasn't due to the price. I was able to justify this to myself by not rushing towards the usual upgrades, like luggage or a more 'eye friendly' exhaust can. both of which are on my wish-list, but have had to be pushed back. What helped most of all was the unexpectedly large 'end of year' discount I got on the bike which meant I had rather more cash left in my savings pot than expected. I was seriously considering the Alpinas, but I read a few. (admittedly only a few) reports of leaking seals and asked myself if I wanted to take that risk? Sods law dictates if ts going to happen, it will probably happen to me.

The other option was BARtubeless who offer a 4yr warranty. But that comes with a risk. The original front wheel doesn't have the 'safety lip' designed to hold the tyre in place in the event of a puncture. and I didn't like that idea one little bit. Same goes for the various DIY options, the wheel is unchanged.

The biggest change for me with this bike is the move back to Chain Drive. Im fairly 'slap-dash' with lube, I use gear oil, rather than these new fangled sprays. (I may at some point fit a Cobrra Nemo) And after owning an 1100GS for the past 22 years I am sick to the back teeth of cleaning spoked wheels. So, "Black everything" was the logical choice, any oil 'fling' from the chain is and will remain virtually invisible. and that suits me perfectly. Cleaning is no more complicated than a quick wipe down with a WD40 soaked rag.

I was hoping to get some money back on the original wheels, But there are so many of them for sale on eBay, They are effectively almost worthless. unless the fact they are 2018s makes a slight difference. I left the original tyres on them as they done have just 1,500 miles.

One point with the Kineos, They werent exactly plain sailing. There was a tiny problem.

The 'air gap' between the rear wheel speed sensor and pulse ring should fall between 0.40 and 1.06mm. Once the new wheels were fitted the gap was found to be 0.20mm. Which resulted in quite unpleasant gear changes at the wrong speeds and the DCT never went above 4th gear. This was fixed by adding a 0.50mm washer to the sensor side wheel spacer. That cured it. Kineo are sending me a revised 'original' spacer to fit and the importer are chasing up a refund for the extra costs all this lead to. Half a mm. and the bike was a mess. whether that was a mistake on Kineos part or a slight shift in tolerances at the Honda factory. who knows? Kineo are now aware of this being a potential issue, which is a good thing. It was quickly sorted (with a bit of ingenuity) and I have no complaints.
 

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Your bike has no screen motobiker, do you ride without one. I also see you have also covered the gold forks in black
I had my Alpinas before my bike arrived so I got the dealer to swop wheels before he delivered the bike. So I have a brand new pair of gold wheels and tyres wrapped up in storage. The Alpinas didn't come with sprocket or discs.

I thought long and hard about the spoke O ring seals. The manufacturers testing looked good and so far after one year they have not lost any air. If I was to do it again however I would go for Kineo. I think Alpinas were £1800 and Kineo £2300.
.
 

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....
The other option was BARtubeless who offer a 4yr warranty. But that comes with a risk. The original front wheel doesn't have the 'safety lip' designed to hold the tyre in place in the event of a puncture. and I didn't like that idea one little bit. Same goes for the various DIY options, the wheel is unchanged.
...
Just to let everybody knows: Bartubeless can replace the original front wheel while applying their tubeless treatment. They unmount the wheel, replace the rim with a new one with the "hump" and then re-mount it again. Optionally they can also put in a new hub.
See here: https://www.bartfactory.com/product...ess-honda-africa-twin-crf1000-bundle/?lang=en
 

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Motobiker, the information on the sensor - which you also mentioned in another - is gold. That's just the sort of subtle problem that would be hard for a typical rider to diagnose themselves. I notice Rally Raid also offer a set of tubeless wheels, using Bartubeless, but I see that you have some concerns about safety given the lack of a lip on the front.

Did you do the switch yourself? Did you have to transfer the cush drive etc. as well?

Dan
 

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Motobiker, the information on the sensor - which you also mentioned in another - is gold. That's just the sort of subtle problem that would be hard for a typical rider to diagnose themselves. I notice Rally Raid also offer a set of tubeless wheels, using Bartubeless, but I see that you have some concerns about safety given the lack of a lip on the front.

Did you do the switch yourself? Did you have to transfer the cush drive etc. as well?

Dan

Be noted; there are two option with Bartubless

Option 1. you send them your wheels and they apply the polymer to seal them.
Option 2. you buy full made, ready to install wheels from them.

in option 2, the front rim does have the hump! the cost for this option is 1450Euros (ex-Factory Italy).
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 · (Edited)
Motobiker, the information on the sensor - which you also mentioned in another - is gold. That's just the sort of subtle problem that would be hard for a typical rider to diagnose themselves. I notice Rally Raid also offer a set of tubeless wheels, using Bartubeless, but I see that you have some concerns about safety given the lack of a lip on the front.

Did you do the switch yourself? Did you have to transfer the cush drive etc. as well?

Dan
Apparently i was wrong about the safety concerns. and thats fair enough. i was also put off by them only offering a 4yr warranty, despite saying they have bikes that have gone for over 10 years without a problem. So, why not offer 10yrs? but thats by the by, I never really considered them or the various DIY methods. thinking originally that Alpinas were the best bet as a permanent way of being rid of the tubes.

The sensor gap. was a puzzle. it wasn't immediately obvious, though I assumed it was something to do with this actual part. A part which, oddly, cannot be adjusted. it relies on the wheel being perfect, rather than what I would consider normal.. the ability to easily adjust the gap. when you consider the gap has to be within 0.66 of a mm, the tolerances involved are.. staggeringly small. and i cannot blame kineo for this error. Its possible that mine was the first DCT and this issue was not known about, the ABS set itself as normal.

the new wheels came with their own cush drive: quote below from the distributors page:

CUSH DRIVE & SPROCKET CARRIER
Kineo wheels are supplied with a specific 8-pin Cush Drive which is completely external to the rear wheel hub. This feature is entirely independent of the wheel and has its own a double-row bearing to support the radial load induced by the chain to supplement the wheel's two integral bearings. Cush Drive and Sprocket Carrier components are supplied in a Black anodised finish.
The swap was a very simple job.. but, i did not have all the tools (or threadlock) required, so I used a trusted mechanic/tyre fitter local to me to do the job, he also fashioned the washer.. ground it down till it was .5mm thick to fix the problem once it had been diagnosed. He also was the person who fitted the trail attacks.

Your bike has no screen motobiker, do you ride without one. I also see you have also covered the gold forks in black
The bike does have a screen.. albeit a short one that is matt black. its a Givi d1144bo, It was originally designed to fit the Standard AT and so has just 4 fixing points unlike the 'Sport which has 6. Its no less 'solid' despite that.

I am 6'7 in my boots and have a long history of wasting far too much money in search of the perfect screen. going 'low' means im in the breeze, but the airflow is 'clean' without buffering or turbulence and perfectly fine for all legal speeds.. and lllegal too. I have had an equally low screen on my 1100GS for donkeys years. The screen offers enough protection for the sat nav that is just behind it.

The fork covers are effectively simple foam wraps held in place by velcro and are just a bit of farkle to help protect the (expensive) forks from dings and scratches. they have a carbon effect. and are sold by 'cream carbon' which is local to me here in Nottinghamshire.

close up photo below of the screen.
 

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CORRECTION:

Bartubless, always provides a new Front rim with anti-debeading lip.

Fantastic, that's what was keeping me from sealing the rims myself, I might do this after I come back from my Scotland trip, because carrying 1.2 KG
of tubes in the luggage sure isn't something great and I can't change the tubes myself too...


Having also read about the 19/17" rims from Rally raid, I'm now wondering if what people feel as better handling, isn't mostly the removal of the tube
weight as rotating mass, compared to the minute 21-19 size weight gain as the rims still need to be rigid.
 

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Fantastic, that's what was keeping me from sealing the rims myself, I might do this after I come back from my Scotland trip, because carrying 1.2 KG
of tubes in the luggage sure isn't something great and I can't change the tubes myself too...


Having also read about the 19/17" rims from Rally raid, I'm now wondering if what people feel as better handling, isn't mostly the removal of the tube
weight as rotating mass, compared to the minute 21-19 size weight gain as the rims still need to be rigid.
I envy you my friend. My dream is a trip to Scotland on bike....

Back to the subject, the 19/17 combination is more road oriented, therefore it provides more information and feeling. The 21/18 is definitely dirt oriented. Coming from a Varadero (19/17) I still miss the combo on roads with continuous tights turns. But, 21/18 is not that bad, and definitely I prefer the comfort they offer....

Getting rid of the tube extra weight definitely plays a role, of course, as well.
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
Ive never really thought much about bad handling of this bike. Its a radically different machine from my other bike and i expected from the start that it would take some adjusting to. But as it turns out this period of adjustment didn't last long and now, 5 months later, riding it is as natural as my other bike which I have been riding for 22 years. If i approach bends and so on in a different way then its already unconscious, not something I have to spend any time thinking about. And that is in stark contrast to another bike I owned for a period, A K1200GT a bike that demanded full time concentration and very particular road positioning to get round a tight bend. It was hard work riding that bike on anything but the fastest roads. Not so this Honda.
 
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