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Discussion Starter #1
Alles,

Here's the story of a small fitment issue I've recently had to resolve by visiting a pro body shop. When I bought my 2016 AT it was equipped with a MIVV titanium can and SS header system.


Soon after retirement I installed an SW Motech skid plate which unfortunately interfered with the header pipes slightly.

MIVVInterference.png


The plate contacted the headers and required some trimming of the aluminum plate in the area circled in red. I went to a local body shop for the trimming. About 1/2 inch was removed along existing trim lines. Tolerances are still tight but the motor and the plate are hard mounted to the frame so I don't expect any contact except in situations with significant damage (bent skid plate, etc.). I'll continue to monitor this clearance as time goes on.

IMG_6044.JPG


IMG_6046.JPG


For your situational awareness.
 

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looks good now.
BTW I see you are proficient at wrapping a extension cord too (y)
 

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Put a washer on the bolt on the inside of skid pan at the forward mount.
My 2017 with stock exhaust was touching the pan. Simple washer gave sufficient clearance.
Dob of gloozit on washer holds it in place on skid pan for assembly.
 

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Actually, on closer inspection - yes - I have seen that before. Isn't that like a "sailor's knot" or sumthin' similar? Maybe hard to do on vinyl electrical cord at -5C.
It’s a loose single bow knot, been doing my long cords like that for years. Absolutely impossible to tangle.
lol sorry w.willy, kinda hijacked your thread talk’n bout your extension cord in your pic.
 

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It’s a loose single bow knot, been doing my long cords like that for years. Absolutely impossible to tangle.
lol sorry w.willy, kinda hijacked your thread talk’n bout your extension cord in your pic.
Yeah, I think the same knot is used to take up excess marine rope on decks and avoid entanglement, yet easy redeployment (based on what I've experienced anyway).
 

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Discussion Starter #9
looks good now.
BTW I see you are proficient at wrapping a extension cord too (y)
Ah, yes. The old daisy-chain routine. Picked that one up during my Army days. I only use that because I'm too cheap to buy a cord rollup. Nice thing about it is you can unhook one end and just pull it all the way out to its full length. But I digress...
 
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Discussion Starter #10
Put a washer on the bolt on the inside of skid pan at the forward mount.
My 2017 with stock exhaust was touching the pan. Simple washer gave sufficient clearance.
Dob of gloozit on washer holds it in place on skid pan for assembly.
Excellent idea Black. I have to pull it off today to drop the headers so I can add my crash bars. I'll get a couple of suitable washers. Thanks for the heads up.
 

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Ah, yes. The old daisy-chain routine. Picked that one up during my Army days. I only use that because I'm too cheap to buy a cord rollup. Nice thing about it is you can unhook one end and just pull it all the way out to its full length. But I digress...
Now that AT-D pointed it out, it makes sense for military and navy, particularly the navy and given the ropes they use would dry better. And in a pinch, one can un-moor a boat. Usually multiple ropes are involved, so any time saved is a benefit. I am no sailor, so this is very likely so obvious to someone who is.

Useful to know the next time I mount my AT. ;)
 

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Discussion Starter #12 (Edited)
Well, I had a pleasant surprise today. As I mentioned in this thread earlier, I dropped the skid plate yesterday to get at the headers so I could remove the GSG Moto frame sliders the previous owner had installed.


This was in preparation for installing recently purchased SW Motech crash bars. When I unbolted the sliders, however, I noticed the 2 spacers for the engine hanger (#s 9 & 14 in the picture below) were missing. For some reason the previous owner had not replaced them when installing the sliders. :oops:

Spacers.JPG


So I ordered a replacement set from Babbitts Online and sat back to await arrival so I could complete the crash bar install. As I was puttering around the garage today I decided I would also attempt my first oil change on the AT as all the bits I needed access to were now within easy reach. So I drained the oil then took a look at the funny thing on the front of the crankcase that must be the oil filter. Imagine my surprise when I noticed K & P Engineering inscribed onto the front plate. This was odd I thought - what the **** is it? How do I replace it? Why am I not seeing a standard oil filter?

Well, after some searching and surfing, I discover it is a K & P Engineering S1 Micronic Oil Filter. Never needs replacement. You just clean it every 16k miles or so with brake cleaner and soap & water then put it back in play. This was a nice surprise. Much better performance compared to paper filters.



So I'm still waiting for my spacers. The bike's in the garage tonight without headers or a skid plate. I did fire it up to circulate the fresh oil and to see how loud it was but it wasn't too bad. The dog had a fit though. ;)
 
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Decent permanent oil filter. I used one on my Aprilia and had no complaints of an issue, at least from what I was able to determine. Oil flowed through it, and it didn't leak. I think (?) the filtering is a bit coarser (higher flow), but I could be wrong. They are about $100 or so, and easier on the landfill.
 

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Discussion Starter #14 (Edited)
... I think (?) the filtering is a bit coarser (higher flow), but I could be wrong.
...
You're right on that point DT. There are only three ways to increase flow through a hydraulic filter, all other things being equal: 1) increase the filtering area; 2) increase the incoming pressure; 3) reduce the back pressure by increasing the filter pore size or decreasing layer count (less filtering per pass). I suspect K&P uses #3. The fact that they include a magnetic trap offsets the problem a bit.

Most common engine wear occurs during warmup while a cold engine's internal parts heat up and expand at different rates relative to each other before reaching thermal equilibrium. It is important to have lots of oil available if possible to offset this wear. This filter provides significantly more flow than a standard paper filter in cold conditions if the engineering data are correct. This is also a great reason to warm up any IC engine prior to putting significant load on it. I used to warm my cold Evo engine up religiously before driving away. At a modified 180hp/liter, it could suffer significant wear if I loaded it up cold. That engine lasted well into 140k miles while still cranking out significant HP.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
So I'm still waiting for my spacers. The bike's in the garage tonight without headers or a skid plate. I did fire it up to circulate the fresh oil and to see how loud it was but it wasn't too bad. The dog had a fit though. ;)
Bike's back up with the crash bars installed. All said, the process was fairly painless. The instructions were easy to understand and everything went together without a hitch.
 

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I had issues with the SWM bash plate last year too see...


 
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