On my 2017, they are in your C example, but I don't have the separate L-brackets you do.
HEED L-brackets spacers, '22 ATAS DCT
Heed's (crappy) instructions show spacers "between the L-brackets and engine, #10 in photo:
![Product Wood Gesture Font Twig]()
The same instructions clearly show spacer on the LEFT side of the bike "between the L-bracket and AT frame"
![Motor vehicle Gesture Font Automotive exterior Vehicle door]()
the spacer location on the RIGHT side of the bike is not clear or explained (photo below)
![Human Textile Mammal Gesture Art]()
Can somebody that installed the bars, clarify this, pls...A,B or C?
(The way I think, it would make more sense to have spacers "between the L-brackets and AT frame" like in photo-A. Meaning the whole flat side of brackets would be supported against the engine, giving the brackets "no room to bend" in case of crash?) Heed should have welded these spacers to make it less confusing and easier to install. (like they did for some older AT)
![Automotive tire Bumper Automotive exterior Rim Automotive wheel system]()
![Automotive tire Bumper Automotive exterior Rim Auto part]()
![Automotive tire Automotive exterior Bumper Rim Audio equipment]()
Not sure if "solution-A" would carry MORE vibration from the engine, then "solution-C" for example.
Also why are these brackets and spacers not dampened to minimize vibration from the engine, that some owners are reporting, (I.e. some rubber joint where "crash guards connect to L-brackets)
The same instructions clearly show spacer on the LEFT side of the bike "between the L-bracket and AT frame"
the spacer location on the RIGHT side of the bike is not clear or explained (photo below)
Can somebody that installed the bars, clarify this, pls...A,B or C?
(The way I think, it would make more sense to have spacers "between the L-brackets and AT frame" like in photo-A. Meaning the whole flat side of brackets would be supported against the engine, giving the brackets "no room to bend" in case of crash?) Heed should have welded these spacers to make it less confusing and easier to install. (like they did for some older AT)
Not sure if "solution-A" would carry MORE vibration from the engine, then "solution-C" for example.
Also why are these brackets and spacers not dampened to minimize vibration from the engine, that some owners are reporting, (I.e. some rubber joint where "crash guards connect to L-brackets)
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Likewise here I'm afraid. I fitted mine to a 2019 CRF1000 DCT. Didn't get any 'L' brackets with them for that year and model and no spacer at all for the top forward bracket join under the headlight.Heed's (crappy) instructions show spacers "between the L-brackets and engine, #10 in photo:
View attachment 78811
The same instructions clearly show spacer on the LEFT side of the bike "between the L-bracket and AT frame"
View attachment 78812
the spacer location on the RIGHT side of the bike is not clear or explained (photo below)
View attachment 78813
Can somebody that installed the bars, clarify this, pls...A,B or C?
(The way I think, it would make more sense to have spacers "between the L-brackets and AT frame" like in photo-A. Meaning the whole flat side of brackets would be supported against the engine, giving the brackets "no room to bend" in case of crash?) Heed should have welded these spacers to make it less confusing and easier to install. (like they did for some older AT)
View attachment 78814 View attachment 78815 View attachment 78816
Not sure if "solution-A" would carry MORE vibration from the engine, then "solution-C" for example.
Also why are these brackets and spacers not dampened to minimize vibration from the engine, that some owners are reporting, (I.e. some rubber joint where "crash guards connect to L-brackets)
I watched that video already but:
- His AT is not ATAS
- His AT is MANUAL nit DCT
- His HEED kit has brackets with spacers welded one on the "outside" and one on the "inside"
-
To answer my own questions (since nobody on this forum installed HEED bars)Heed's (crappy) instructions show spacers "between the L-brackets and engine, #10 in photo:
View attachment 78811
The same instructions clearly show spacer on the LEFT side of the bike "between the L-bracket and AT frame"
View attachment 78812
the spacer location on the RIGHT side of the bike is not clear or explained (photo below)
View attachment 78813
Can somebody that installed the bars, clarify this, pls...A,B or C?
(The way I think, it would make more sense to have spacers "between the L-brackets and AT frame" like in photo-A. Meaning the whole flat side of brackets would be supported against the engine, giving the brackets "no room to bend" in case of crash?) Heed should have welded these spacers to make it less confusing and easier to install. (like they did for some older AT)
View attachment 78814 View attachment 78815 View attachment 78816
Not sure if "solution-A" would carry MORE vibration from the engine, then "solution-C" for example.
Also why are these brackets and spacers not dampened to minimize vibration from the engine, that some owners are reporting, (I.e. some rubber joint where "crash guards connect to L-brackets)
, today I installed the bars on my '22 ATAS DCT, very happy with fit and finish, instructions are garbage, uncomplete and confusing.I installed my spacers like this:
which is opposite from the spacers #10 in one of the drawings from HEED:
HEED and CLARIFICATION
@Evgueni I suggest you try the "opposite" from HEED instructions (like i did with picture A) the worst that can happen is you may end up with 12mm misalignment (on one or both sides) in which case you'll just flip the spacer(s) around.
Pls report back after you install the guards
@Evgueni I suggest you try the "opposite" from HEED instructions (like i did with picture A)
the worst that can happen is you may end up with 12mm misalignment (on one or both sides) in which case you'll just flip the spacer(s) around.Pls report back after you install the guards
I found another installation video on YouTube, for 1100 DCT -
The only issue it's in German, but the video is detailed enough to understand the process. And yes, the guy was installing it the same way (picture A). He even used some grease to "glue" the spacer for easier installation.
![Gesture Finger Automotive lighting Auto part Automotive tire]()
I finally got time to install the crash bars. All in all, it took me 5 hours to complete the job. And having various tools definitely helped, lots of tight spaces and awkward access points. But I'm very happy with the result - everything is aligned, and the bars look and feel solid. All the tips from this discussion helped for sure.
And yes, @Dado - I installed the brackets the same way as you (Option A). I think Heed display them on the diagram the "wrong" way just for the convenience of showing all the parts. I don't think the main (fig.1) diagram in their papers is designed to represent the actual layout of the assembly. Also, in their (rather cryptic) instructions they kind of hint on the right positioning:
"On the left side of the motorcycle in place of spacer removed in step 5 put the left bended bracket and place between the bracket and motorcycle frame 9,5mm spacer sleeve."
As I read it - the spacer sleeve should be placed between the bracket and the frame, not between the bracket and the engine (which would be Option C). So again, I installed it as you show in Option A, and everything aligned well.
A couple of additional tips I'd like to mention:
- On the left side, remove the shift motor plastic cover (unscrew 2 bolts). It will make it much easier to manipulate the bracket and the sleeve.
![Hood Vehicle Motor vehicle Automotive tire Steering wheel]()
- On the right side footpeg, remove the rubber insert, and use a pivoting adapter for the tool to remove/install the footpeg bolt.
![Bicycle frame Bicycle tire Automotive tire Bicycle Vehicle brake]()
And yes, @Dado - I installed the brackets the same way as you (Option A). I think Heed display them on the diagram the "wrong" way just for the convenience of showing all the parts. I don't think the main (fig.1) diagram in their papers is designed to represent the actual layout of the assembly. Also, in their (rather cryptic) instructions they kind of hint on the right positioning:
"On the left side of the motorcycle in place of spacer removed in step 5 put the left bended bracket and place between the bracket and motorcycle frame 9,5mm spacer sleeve."
As I read it - the spacer sleeve should be placed between the bracket and the frame, not between the bracket and the engine (which would be Option C). So again, I installed it as you show in Option A, and everything aligned well.
A couple of additional tips I'd like to mention:
- On the left side, remove the shift motor plastic cover (unscrew 2 bolts). It will make it much easier to manipulate the bracket and the sleeve.
- On the right side footpeg, remove the rubber insert, and use a pivoting adapter for the tool to remove/install the footpeg bolt.
"in the nick of time" as we 🇨🇦 will nearly hit "above freezing temperatures" soon
Now imagine you'll have to spend another 5+5hrs for every "air filters change"... not sure what's worse; Heed's instructions, or Honda air filter location.
Now imagine you'll have to spend another 5+5hrs for every "air filters change"
... not sure what's worse; Heed's instructions, or Honda air filter location.
I thought at first they would need removed on my standard AT so I altered them by cutting the tube where they go to the frame behind the exhaust manifold, welding in spigots so that I could remove the bars without having to remove the engine/frame bolts. Turns out it wasn't required for the standard AT but it may be something worth considering doing next time they are removed if you have to.
Pic of the AT with the bars still in place and tank etc removed.
Pic of where I cut and welded a spigot.
@Hood that's a great idea, I don't have the welding skills, but I am planning to cut the HEED pipes and use these instead, no welding required ...I found these searching Amazon for; boating, marine, bimini pipe connectors...
I am thinking since they are 2.75" long, if I just cut (each in two) and use the smaller 1" sections? ... I would of course insert a short 1" nipple inside HEED pipe where I made a cut, (it could be anything, i.e. cooper pipe, even PVC)
![Cylinder Liquid Gas Automotive lighting Font]()
...I found these searching Amazon for; boating, marine, bimini pipe connectors...I am thinking since they are 2.75" long, if I just cut (each in two) and use the smaller 1" sections? ... I would of course insert a short 1" nipple inside HEED pipe where I made a cut, (it could be anything, i.e. cooper pipe, even PVC)
Prefdo 2-way Straight Pipe Fitting Connectors, 2PCS 316 Stainless Steel Cast Hand Rail Tube Connectors, Heavy Duty Nipples Connector Spare Part for Boat Yacht DIY project (1Inch/25mm) : Amazon.ca: Sports & Outdoors
Prefdo 2-way Straight Pipe Fitting Connectors, 2PCS 316 Stainless Steel Cast Hand Rail Tube Connectors, Heavy Duty Nipples Connector Spare Part for Boat Yacht DIY project (1Inch/25mm) : Amazon.ca: Sports & Outdoors
www.amazon.ca
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