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Maximum power is completely controllable with the throttle, minimum power in low gears is what's more difficult to be smooth IMO.
I mean having the bike set to its max power makes riding dirt difficult, not your throttle position. There is 98ft lbs of torque and 102hp hitting loose surface and its never going to be anything but snatchy. Dial it to gravel mode, lowest power setting, and the bike is smooth and buttery in all conditions, with more than enough power to go way faster than could ever be safe on dirt. Thats why it isn't a T7. Its a CRF1100. Designed to be a beast on the pavement and a dual sport on dirt. Hence driving modes that modulate the bikes systems to adapt to the conditions. Fantastic engineering. I've put 21,000 KM on mine in just over year and at least 7000 of that on gravel and dirt in some pretty extreme terrain and conditions. The rest of the KM are the WFO empty roads of BC with everything from endless straights to white knuckle rollercoasters everywhere you look. This bike excels at what it is designed to do, especially when using its available features as they are intended.
 

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Discussion Starter · #22 ·
I mean having the bike set to its max power makes riding dirt difficult, not your throttle position. There is 98ft lbs of torque and 102hp hitting loose surface and its never going to be anything but snatchy......
I have to disagree, 102hp at WFO has nothing to do with a smooth, gradual, throttle, at slight opening. Many motorcycles make much more power and have smoother throttling. My 2016 R1200RS throttle is every bit as smooth as the AT is in Urban when riding down my bumpy, dirt road, yet it is more powerful. And it doesn't have to be toggled between different modes.
 

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I have to disagree, 102hp at WFO has nothing to do with a smooth, gradual, throttle, at slight opening. Many motorcycles make much more power and have smoother throttling. My 2016 R1200RS throttle is every bit as smooth as the AT is in Urban when riding down my bumpy, dirt road, yet it is more powerful. And it doesn't have to be toggled between different modes.
I'm not sure comparing a shaft driven, horizontally opposed engine to chain driven P-Twin is useful or logical.

I'm riding the same bike and am not encountering the same concern, even in touring mode in big city traff. Can I ride the throttle awkwardly, yes, if I'm not paying attention, but can I ride it smooth as butter? Also yes. I'm sure the bike are otherwise riding the same. I'm going to suggest taking more time to get used the bike before launching an expedition to solve a problem that may come down to a lack of familiarity with the machine, rather than a function of the machine.
 

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I'm not sure comparing a shaft driven, horizontally opposed engine to chain driven P-Twin is useful or logical.

I'm riding the same bike and am not encountering the same concern, even in touring mode in big city traff. Can I ride the throttle awkwardly, yes, if I'm not paying attention, but can I ride it smooth as butter? Also yes. I'm sure the bike are otherwise riding the same. I'm going to suggest taking more time to get used the bike before launching an expedition to solve a problem that may come down to a lack of familiarity with the machine, rather than a function of the machine.

I don't know man, I agree with Milo, the throttle is very jerky in full power mode - unnecessarily so. I try to fine tune it with my wrist to be more smooth, but I hit a little bump, wrist moves the throttle by a fraction and jerkiness is back. Now I'm definitely no riding expert, but I rode enough bikes to know what a smooth throttling feels like, including earlier AT 1000s ...

Now this is in a no way a deal breaker that makes me want to sell the bike, it's a wonderful bike and this is a very fine detail, but it does exist and some of us just notice it more than others.

Also I'm not really a fan of changing modes every 10 minutes - even if it fixes this nuisance, I just want to set full power and a silver screen with basic info and enjoy my afternoon ride.
 

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I agree that the throttle is twitchy at lower speeds in tour mode. But those are the conditions in which you shouldn’t be in tour mode. It’s designed for steady, efficient travel in high gears at higher speeds. And rocket ship passing and on-ramp performance. Not for stop and go city riding.

I live on a gravel road, so every ride starts in gravel mode. A mile or so later, my neighborhood turns to pavement, so I switch to urban mode. Another mile later, my neighborhood gives way to a state hwy and I’m now in tour mode. All three are well-designed for those conditions. Imho, it’s the off-road conditions where one really needs to tweak the rider aides to fit the skill, intended terrain, and performance goals.
 
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