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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
****DISCLAIMER: a lot of dumb questions will be ask!!!!*****

There are basically 5 things I want to accomplish but don't know how:

1) Install OEM Fog Light Switch using aftermarket fog light system
2) Route Fog Light wiring through PC-8
3) Swap 3 wired toggle switch to 2 wired button switch
4) Install Skene controller
5) Activate Halo feature on Fog Light

So I wired my fog lights to a spare battery for a test run and the fog lights lit up. Even though they may have lit up, I'm not sure if they're wired properly. Are my connections correct?





1) The ring terminals connected to the battery...will I have to cut them off if I choose to route them through the PC-8?
2) White & Green wires by the fog lights...the white wire is "ignition positive" which activates the halo ring and the green wire should be wired to a dimmer module which I chose not to buy because I plan to use the Skene controller.
So the question is: regarding white wire (ignition positive), which wire do I connect this to on the bike? Do I have to solder or can I posi-tap?
Green (dimmer) wire: Is this connect to the Skene controller? If so, which wire?
3) OEM Fog Light Switch - where do I plug Deutsche connector to? I really don't understand this. I mean, this is an OEM fog light switch so there has to be a female connector on the bike for me to plug the male connector to, right? Or does this connect to the Honda Fog Light harness?
4) I don't like the toggle switch the fog lights came with. I have my own I'd like to use however the wire gauge on the button switch I want to use is a 0.30 AWG (I think) but the wire gauge on the toggle switch that came with the fog lights are a 22 AWG. Will I have to replace the 0.30 AWG to a 22 AWG if I want to do the button switch swap?
5) There are 3 wires connected to toggle switch: black/blue/white. Black is negative, correct? Blue is ignition, correct? And white is ground???
6) The button switch I want to use has two wires not 3 like the toggle switch pictured above. How do I make this to work, especially if the button switch I wish to use only has two wires, not three like the toggle switch? And especially when the two wires are sleeved with the same color (i.e. 2 red wires)?
7) Regarding Skene installation pic below, are the two wires towards the middle left of the image (Switched Power & Ground) connecting to the two black/red wires from Fog Light Relay harness in my pic above?
 

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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
Wow, it's been almost 3 weeks since I posted or visited forum. :( No worries because I haven't had the time to work on the bike (busy planning our wedding). :( LOL

Anyhow, with whatever minutes I had available in the past 3 weeks I played around with the wiring and managed to achieve the following:

1) was able to install & wire both the OEM fog light switch and a toggle button to the fog lights, and have either button activate the fog lights. Tested and confirmed. Really happy about this because I didn't have to splice wires or cut off the OEM Fog Light Switch connector.

Next:
2) mount and wire LED bulb behind OEM Fog Light Switch so fog light symbol illuminates when the OEM fog light switch or toggle switch button is pressed "ON"
3) figure out which "+" OEM wire to tap into to activate Halo ring feature on fog lights
4) figure out how to activate fog lights when High Beam is switched on
5) need to wire & crimp OEM 2 pin connector to OEM 4 pin connector so OEM fog light switch connector plugs directly into the auxiliary plug. Not a big fan of splicing/soldering/posi-taps. I prefer plug & play
 

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4) Behind the dash, on the white 4P connector for OEM fog lights and 12 V output, you'll find the blue wire. There's 12 V when the high beam is on, so you can tap to the blue wire for controlling your fog lights with the high beam.

On the same connector there's a black/blue wire. By applying 12 V to that, the OEM fog light indicator lamp on dash will light. So you'll get the indicator lamp working also.

On the same connector, red/yellow is connected 12 V (12 V when the ignition is switched on) and the green wire is ground.
 

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2) mount and wire LED bulb behind OEM Fog Light Switch so fog light symbol illuminates when the OEM fog light switch or toggle switch button is pressed "ON"
I've looked at this as well but not sure it is possible. Have you actually shined a light from behind the switch to confirm it is translucent? If so, adding a 12V LED into the circuit downstream of the switch should be easy. If not, you still have the dash indicator.
3) figure out which "+" OEM wire to tap into to activate Halo ring feature on fog lights
Just a question of when they should be illuminated. If all the time, you have many options for power source.
4) figure out how to activate fog lights when High Beam is switched on
What -mek- said
5) need to wire & crimp OEM 2 pin connector to OEM 4 pin connector so OEM fog light switch connector plugs directly into the auxiliary plug. Not a big fan of splicing/soldering/posi-taps. I prefer plug & play
You'll need the Sumitomo Sealed HM090 connectors, available from Eastern Beaver or Cycle Terminal.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Incoming dumb question:

Is it okay for me to have multiple positive lines tap into one main positive line?

For example, is it okay for me to group the positive lines from toggle switch + relay + say another device and have them all tapped into one main positive line from the bike?
 

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Incoming dumb question:

Is it okay for me to have multiple positive lines tap into one main positive line?

For example, is it okay for me to group the positive lines from toggle switch + relay + say another device and have them all tapped into one main positive line from the bike?
Yes, BUT you must be sure the total load (watt) does not surpass the cable capacity (max ampere). You should also protect each added line with a properly sized fuse.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Yes, BUT you must be sure the total load (watt) does not surpass the cable capacity (max ampere). You should also protect each added line with a properly sized fuse.
Thanks for your input!

But um...how does one measure a cable's capacity and what each line's wattage is producing when the circuit is hot? Is the inline fuse really necessary if I have it hooked up to the PC8 (sort of)?
 

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Thanks for your input!

But um...how does one measure a cable's capacity and what each line's wattage is producing when the circuit is hot? Is the inline fuse really necessary if I have it hooked up to the PC8 (sort of)?
Cable capacity is calculated from several factors. Try google "awg current carrying capacity" to get some tables. Basically the larger the cable (cross section) the higher current it can carry. The wattage of the connected accessory must be known to correctly size the cabling (see the product labels of the items you are connecting and sum up all values, divide by 12 to get total current). Fuses are placed to protect the cabling from eccessive load (current) which can generate fires, several "local" smaller fuses are better than a single bigger one, but the general fuse is more practical (easier to place and replace if needed).
 

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But um...how does one measure a cable's capacity and what each line's wattage is producing when the circuit is hot? Is the inline fuse really necessary if I have it hooked up to the PC8 (sort of)?
You can calculate the total load by measuring it directly (a DC clamp meter is easiest) or just by summing the manufacturer's reported loads (which will be reported in either watts or amps, if the former divide by 12 as @deltabi says to get a conservative current rating).

You don't need the inline fuse the with PC8. It adds additional but probably unnecessary protection, and removing inline fuses saves precious space under the seat.
 
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