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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Can anyone please tell me the colour of the Hi beam wire? Id like to wire up some driving lights for use in the outback and want them to go on and off with using my hi/lo beam switch. The 2020ATAS is different to previous models in the headlight wiring. I’m having trouble isolating the correct wire to splice in too.
thanks.
 

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I found out on the wiring diagram, the high beam wire is blue coming out of the BCU to the headlight, and the low beam wire is white. Be careful where You tap into it though, because the wires to the rear antilock sensor are also blue, and white.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I found out on the wiring diagram, the high beam wire is blue coming out of the BCU to the headlight, and the low beam wire is white. Be careful where You tap into it though, because the wires to the rear antilock sensor are also blue, and white.
Thank you Jamie. Have you actually tapped into these wires yourself? I’m asking because I’m not sure if they are 12 volt or able to trip a relay?
 

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Not yet. I've yet to buy the lights I'm wanting due to them not being in stock. I might go ahead and wire up my relays however. Then All I'll have to do is mount the lights, and plug em in. I still haven't decided where I'll tap the wires either. I might have to take the side panels off to find the right spot.
64241
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Not yet. I've yet to buy the lights I'm wanting due to them not being in stock. I might go ahead and wire up my relays however. Then All I'll have to do is mount the lights, and plug em in. I still haven't decided where I'll tap the wires either. I might have to take the side panels off to find the right spot.
Ok. I’ve got my bike in garage in bits right now. I have since had discussions with Honda dealer, Eastern Beaver, other AT owners and done some tests myself. The wiring system for this model AT is very different to all the previous ones. My information is that even if you could tap into the wiring at the BCU it will not have enough current to trip a conventional relay. A special type of electronic low power relay will be necessary. Also, even if you do get the right relay, you apparently loose the dashboard hi beam warning signal. So after 3 days of trying to wire up so that I can use the hi/lo beam switch I’m about to give up and wire up a stand alone battery power system with an on off handlebar switch. That way I’m not compromising anything on the AT electrical system. That’s all I can tell you so far. That’s why I’d be very interested to talk to anyone who has actually wired up their off road outback kangaroo spotters to go on off with hi/lo switch on this exact model.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
I’ve put in an information request to the SKENE who make the light controllers. You might be familiar with them. Hopefully they might know something. If you have micro relays and discover anything could you let me know. I’ll do the same if I find out anything. Cheers.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Yes. I’m not expecting to get any help from them but if we both ask then we can compare answers. When I’ve asked questions before of other industry people they always answer with the standard reply “ just splice into hi beam wire”. It’s very hard to get through to them that this is a very model specific question. Even previous AT’s are different.
 

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Yes. I’m not expecting to get any help from them but if we both ask then we can compare answers. When I’ve asked questions before of other industry people they always answer with the standard reply “ just splice into hi beam wire”. It’s very hard to get through to them that this is a very model specific question. Even previous AT’s are different.
I may have thought of a work around by using the white low beam wire to trigger a normally closed relay when the low beams are off. The normally closed realay woyld always complete the power circuit until the low beams are on, so it would require a second relay to accessory power that's ignition switched, so the driving lights would go out when the ignition is switched off. It'll be a while before I get to probe the wires to check if there's zero power to the lows when the highs are on. If the low beams stay on with the highs, then obviously, it won't work.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
I may have thought of a work around by using the white low beam wire to trigger a normally closed relay when the low beams are off. The normally closed realay woyld always complete the power circuit until the low beams are on, so it would require a second relay to accessory power that's ignition switched, so the driving lights would go out when the ignition is switched off. It'll be a while before I get to probe the wires to check if there's zero power to the lows when the highs are on. If the low beams stay on with the highs, then obviously, it won't work.
That sounds feasible. Like you say it depends on whether or not low stays on when high is on. I think it might actually. Anyway here is what I get back from SKENE.

Hello Shane

Simply put, if your bike has OEM LED headlights the IQ-170 will not work. The OEM LED uses a different signal to turn on the high beam light where on non LED models they simply fire 12 volts up to the high beam and the IQ-170 and 270 reads the 12 volt signal.

Hope this clears things up.
So it looks like that’s not going to work either. Anyway I’ve just gone ahead and wired up the lights from battery with handlebar switch. That’ll do me for now and it safe enough not to risk doing any damage to the bikes electrical system.
 

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Some more information for this thread after my testing.
  1. The blue wire (H/L HI) on pin 20 of the BCU is 12V when the high beam switch is OFF and drops to 0V when turned ON... so backwards to conventional logic.
  2. The white wire (H/L LO) on pin 4 of the BCU is 12V all the time when the ignition is switched ON... so high beam switch makes no difference for this wire.
The only way would be to use the blue wire to drive a high impedance (low amperage) coil relay and use the normally closed contact to pass 12V when de-energized. That way, when the high beam switch in ON, the relay would pass 12V to your auxiliary lights or Skene dimmer controller.
 

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There is another way that occurred to me. Since the blue wire mentioned above is 0V when turned ON, then it can be used as a 0V reference on a relay that has 12V on the other side of its coil. When the high beams are OFF, then both sides of the relay coil will be at 12V which is zero potential. Therefore the relay is de-energized.

I tried it this afternoon with a relay that draws only 30mA and used a flyback 1N4007 diode to protect the BCU output during switching. Worked without any issues. I’m using a Skene dimmer controller as well so the normally open contact of the relay drives the Skene dimmer.

This is information only and comes with no recommendation to do this to your bike. Use at your own risk.

Handwriting Schematic Font Rectangle Parallel

65697
 

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There is another way that occurred to me. Since the blue wire mentioned above is 0V when turned ON, then it can be used as a 0V reference on a relay that has 12V on the other side of its coil. When the high beams are OFF, then both sides of the relay coil will be at 12V which is zero potential. Therefore the relay is de-energized.

I tried it this afternoon with a relay that draws only 30mA and used a flyback 1N4007 diode to protect the BCU output during switching. Worked without any issues. I’m using a Skene dimmer controller as well so the normally open contact of the relay drives the Skene dimmer.

This is information only and comes with no recommendation to do this to your bike. Use at your own risk.

View attachment 65696
View attachment 65697
Goos stuff, Man. I appreciate the work you put into this.
 

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Olias, good diagram addition. It clears up several questions I had. Thanks!
No problem. The relay coil current draw is really important. The one in the drawing draws 30mA. I’m just pointing this out in case you buy a different 12V relay. Good luck and keep us posted.
 
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