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Hey all! New to the forum. I am LOVING my AT!! Have had a few beemers, a few KTM's and now I'm a red convert!!

I bought my AT with a bunch of farkles, including gen 2 heated grips. I liked them for the most part. Heat was great. I didn't like the size of the grips as I have large hands. I was always hitting the on switch when not trying to and the circumference was a little slim. All that aside, I would have kept them save for I have a handlebar I prefer over the stock one. That meant trying to surgically remove the left side heated grip / glue. Though I did my best at going slow and being careful, it didn't go optimally and I had an error code after I reinstalled them on the new bars. Argh!!

So, faced with having to buy heated grips a second time I found some AME Chicane grips for like $40 or so. They seem like they'll be great on size which is the main reason for switching manufacturers. That leads me to my question: Has anyone removed the Honda heated grips? Logically I went backwards through the installation instructions, but there seem to be a lot of electronic parts that (in my mind) can be left on the bike. I removed the 3 plugs (2 left and one right) under the tank flanks and reinstalled the waterproof caps. That alone was kind of a PIA.

So can I stop there is my question. Or do I have to remove the plugs back by the seat? I'm going to fire up the dash today once I reconnect the turn signals and battery to make sure I don't have an error code of some sort. Maybe that won't even matter? Everything is tied off and waterproof with the OEM connectors-nothing left open.

FWIW, I did enjoy the ease of the dashboard controls on the Honda grips. Wish they would have fit a little better.

Thanks for any advice!!!!!
 

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How did this end up working out for you? I just removed the heated grips from my ATAS and they did not come off easy, leaving the insides chewed up enough that I dare not even power them up again. I've yet to remove the side panels to see if I even have the waterproof caps, since mine were factory installed. Was it enough for you to just unplug them at the forward connectors, or did you end up removing everything?

Thanks!
 

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If you have a compressor you can tuck an air spray nozzle up under and give a quick jet of air. They'll come right off after that.
 

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Does that technique work with the factory installed heated grips? The youtube video I watched showed the nozzle inserted on the inside end, so the air both broke it loose and popped the grip completely off. With mine the inside end is hard plastic so that even with the switch housing removed, you can't really get a nozzle in there. Does it work from the outside end to just break things loose, after which you can just slide the grip off?

In any case, thanks for the advice. My main question was specifically about disconnecting the grips and removing them entirely. Will the computer throw a code if I don't remove all the associated electronics, as vaquero asked?
 

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Throw some grippuppys on them bigger softer and the heat will still come through.. just a thought..
 

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The heated grips on another Honda bike had that harder insert and the technique worked for me. Just had to make sure that the compressor nozzle was sealed off enough to generate pressure under the grip and the glue released.

I'm not an electrical expert by any means but I don't think there is anything monitoring that electrical connection for the heated grips. Maybe the dash light will go off (it should) but I don't think it will generate a fault code - they just won't be there. I don't think it's like factory BMW parts that alert the CANBUS and create errors.
You might just have to test it to see. :)

Does that technique work with the factory installed heated grips? The youtube video I watched showed the nozzle inserted on the inside end, so the air both broke it loose and popped the grip completely off. With mine the inside end is hard plastic so that even with the switch housing removed, you can't really get a nozzle in there. Does it work from the outside end to just break things loose, after which you can just slide the grip off?

In any case, thanks for the advice. My main question was specifically about disconnecting the grips and removing them entirely. Will the computer throw a code if I don't remove all the associated electronics, as vaquero asked?
 

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Throw some grippuppys on them bigger softer and the heat will still come through.. just a thought..
+1 on the Grip Puppies. They'll also cut down some of the shock & vibes coming up through the machine to your hands. If you have larger hands give them a try - they're cheap and easy to install/remove.
 

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Got them puppies too (+4)

But might be pulling them off soon..
 

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Has anyone successfully removed the stock heated grips from the ATAS ? My Flexx bar arrived today and only then did I realize I can't get the left grip off. Any advice or input is appreciated. I'm prepared to punt and let the dealer replace my handlebar, but I feel like they'll destroy the left grip as well.
 

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I removed the oe grips recently. It took a pair of vice grips to rip off the left bar one. Once it was destroyed, it was a simple matter of cleaning off any debris left on the bar. The throttle grip was removed in its entirety and replaced with a new throttle tube. The wiring is quite involved and runs under the tank and right back to the left tail piece. There you can remove what I think is the control unit. I just taped over that wiring connection. I snipped off all the wires and sealed the plugs on the rest of the loom thereby keeping any moisture out of said wiring loom. There’s plugs on both sides of the tank, two on the left, one on the right IIRC.
 
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