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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Yesterday on slush and ice I nearly went down. When trying to pull away from a standstill the back wheel would spin and slide away. Even when moving I never got any kind of welding or warning light that the t/c was cutting in. Not much use if it doesn't trigger in conditions like these. I have it set on default i.e. 3 bars
Any thoughts?
Mike
 

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I suspect the issue you have hit is that the traction control aims to get the rear wheel travelling at the same speed as the front. If the front isn't moving, that means the rear should not move either. But that would (manual) conflict with the bike being in gear - it would have to stall the engine to achieve traction control, but that doesn't compute. So I think it may be a "feature" common to other types of traction control with no front wheel movement.

Or I could be miles out :)
 

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Ice would be extremely challenging, it's not a magic traction generator.
You could have a problem with the system, or maybe it didn't have time to react. Have you tested it on any normal loose surface, say like gravel? I had a moment on the terrible Dunlops pulling away from a light in the wet when the rear steeped out and traction stepped in, (never had this on my 150hp Hayabusa with good tires and no TC.
I understand that TC limits the ignition to control engine output, you can hear and feel the bike chatter, give it a try someplace safe.
 

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Yesterday on slush and ice I nearly went down. When trying to pull away from a standstill the back wheel would spin and slide away. Even when moving I never got any kind of welding or warning light that the t/c was cutting in. Not much use if it doesn't trigger in conditions like these. I have it set on default i.e. 3 bars
Any thoughts?
Mike
Have you tried it on 1 BAR setting?
Check this and give us feedback..
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
hmmmm I'm suspecting this is right, If you are trying to get out of a snowy slushy situation but you are parked up, then the front wheel will not be moving and the torque control does not kick in. However, I don't see why in Mode 3 (the easiest triggered) they couldn't allow the algorthm to operate. I found it very difficult not to spin the back wheel on the tiniest throttle with the DCT in D-mode, and of course the bike started swinging then so it wasn't possible to get moving in a straight line. I understand that many off-road riders would not want this to happen, but my bet is they don't use mode 3 when off road anyway.
it's got me a little worried about whether the ABS has a similar minimum speed criterion before it kicks in. I had a big saloon that only operated the ABS above 5 mph. There was a downhill bend on my drive and when it was covered in snow and ice I had to take it much faster than I wanted to otherwise the wheels would lock up
Mike
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
..... looks like the 2018 version might provide a setting that does reduce engine power
"GRAVEL mode allows the lowest level of Power (3) and EB (3) with high HSTC (6)."
Mike
 

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TC will not give you more torque on any setting but it will give you LESS torque IF there is wheel slip. "The ECU (electric control unit) calculates the rear-wheel slip ratio based on signals provided by each ABS wheel speed sensor installed on the front and rear wheels. When the slip ratio exceeds a preset value, the ECU reduces fuel injection pitches through feedback control and reduces the engine torque generated, thus restraining the rear tire slip."

If your speed is near zero, then TC will appear brutal even on 1-bar. Example: riding off a curb or starting on rough rocky uphill - the only way to get moving cleanly is with TC OFF.

If your speed is moderate, then TC interaction is fairly smooth and the differences between 1 & 3-bars & off quite obvious. Example: smooth gravel road at 60kmh - just crank on the throttle in 2nd gear and have some fun experimenting.

Here's how the TC works http://world.honda.com/CRF1000L/HSTC/index.html
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
TC will not give you more torque on any setting but it will give you LESS torque IF there is wheel slip. "The ECU (electric control unit) calculates the rear-wheel slip ratio based on signals provided by each ABS wheel speed sensor installed on the front and rear wheels. When the slip ratio exceeds a preset value, the ECU reduces fuel injection pitches through feedback control and reduces the engine torque generated, thus restraining the rear tire slip."

If your speed is near zero, then TC will appear brutal even on 1-bar. Example: riding off a curb or starting on rough rocky uphill - the only way to get moving cleanly is with TC OFF.

If your speed is moderate, then TC interaction is fairly smooth and the differences between 1 & 3-bars & off quite obvious. Example: smooth gravel road at 60kmh - just crank on the throttle in 2nd gear and have some fun experimenting.

Here's how the TC works http://world.honda.com/CRF1000L/HSTC/index.html
That's not my experience - on my bike - so maybe I do have a problem. At zero or near zero speed on very slippery surfaces the torque control is far from brutal in fact it's non existent
Mike
 

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That's not my experience - on my bike - so maybe I do have a problem. At zero or near zero speed on very slippery surfaces the torque control is far from brutal in fact it's non existent
Mike
Have you wound the preload up on the rear? This gives give's more traction in normal conditions and less likely for the traction control to cut in.
 

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I have a manual 2016 model, and traction control has saved my butt on several occasions: On dry road surfaces, I turn it off, but in rain/heavy wind the most intrusive setting keeps you going, and from going down. I have been caught in sudden snow squalls with a fully loaded bike, and if not for the TC, I would have lost it. I also use it at full engagement on water crossings. It is reassuring when it kicks in. I thought I would hate it, but I was wrong. I think that there may be glitches/loops when it interacts with the DCT in some situations.
 
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