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Discussion Starter #1
Do you think this chain will take me another 6000 miles before the pointer is out of the green zone? 6k miles is the next service, the 24k one, so I will be quite pleased as it's the original chain. I think I've only adjusted it twice, but today it was just over half a turn of the adjuster nuts.
Mike
58611

Apologies about the pic being rotated - it always seems to do that if I just copy and paste it
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Thanks Dave. Although that's bad news I think it means I need to put new chain and sprockets on just after xmas if I'm planning any long journeys after lockdown
Mike
 

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An easy way to monitor chain wear that is not related to adjustment position of the axle:
With one hand either squeeze the chain together or pull up on the chain between on the swingarm and take all the slack out of the chain so it is tight against the sprockets. Now with your other hand at the rear sprocket at the 3 o'clock or directly rearward pull the chain away from the sprocket while holding the chain tight. If you can pull the chain roller half way or more up the length of the sprocket tooth, the chain needs to be replaced. As the chain wears the center distance between the rollers increases and the chain begins riding up higher on the sprocket teeth. This is what wears out the sprocket as the teeth wear rapidly as the chain rides higher on the tooth. This is why a very worn sprocket begins to get a saw tooth look to it as the chain is riding up and wearing the sprocket teeth over the top. If you keep your chain in good shape the sprockets will wear very little. In the old days I used to use several chains to one set of sprockets. Now days with o-ring chains it is common practice to replace the sprockets and chains together though in my opinion this is not always necessary if your chain is kept in good shape.

Dan
 

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Maybe you just need a new chain wear decal!

I was wondering if it's worth looking into the new Regina premium chain or equivalent that Broke-My-Wallet recently launched and have named as the new shaft drive.
 

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Do you think this chain will take me another 6000 miles before the pointer is out of the green zone? 6k miles is the next service, the 24k one, so I will be quite pleased as it's the original chain. I think I've only adjusted it twice, but today it was just over half a turn of the adjuster nuts.
Mike
View attachment 58611
Apologies about the pic being rotated - it always seems to do that if I just copy and paste it
24K miles is good life. Life depends on how it lived :) Mine was spitting o-rings at ~15K miles but still in 1st part of green.
Also, check your sprockets; front is probably done. Replace both with new chain. I'd stick with Honda OEM sprockets. Buy a good quality chain. You will have to rivet the master link.
 

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Do you think this chain will take me another 6000 miles before the pointer is out of the green zone? 6k miles is the next service, the 24k one, so I will be quite pleased as it's the original chain. I think I've only adjusted it twice, but today it was just over half a turn of the adjuster nuts.
Mike
View attachment 58611
Apologies about the pic being rotated - it always seems to do that if I just copy and paste it
I'd say quite possibly yes. After my first couple of adjustments, my chain tension was dead stable. I didn't replace it because it because of stretch, I replaced it because it was dropping o'rings, clicking and clacking, and making terrible noises.

If you're not adjusting it frequently, and it looks and sounds normal, I'd keep running it.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
By the way. This is the chain lube I have been using. A mate spotted a box of 10 of these at effectively £4.50 each (normally about £10). So we have 5 each. Even though all the writing on the cans seems to be Rumanian it looks good stuff 😄. I've been riding the bike through a lot of wet roads with tractor mud on lately and expected all the oil/grease to have gone but it hadn't, and two types of modern chain cleaner failed to budge it, and I had to resort to my special chain cleaner and paraffin to get it clean before re-applying the castrol stuff
Castrol Racing chain lube
Mike
 

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Yup, once you start tensioning from start position - clock starts ticking. And since the chain is getting too loose it damages sprockets And chain sliders. Quick swap to high end chain is Cheaper than replacing chain, sliders and sprockets.
ps. If the chain starts to extend, lubing is like putting fat loss gel on a pregnant woman's belly...
pps. Hondas stock chains are not top quality.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
How difficult is it to rivet a new chain myself? I have a small hand riveting tool for my pedal bike chain and used it once to remove some links and that seemed easy enough, but I didn't have to rivet the chain back together as it can use a Quicklink. I will take some photos of the sprockets today and hopefully you can tell me if it's worth just replacing the chain.
Mike
 

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Riveting is pretty easy, plenty of videos on youtube how to do it. You will need a decent kit to do that, since you need to make a firm but not too tight link.
If the chain is over 15k km and near the stretch limit, I would recommend changing it anyways, as AT has decent amount of power and due to high suspension travel, needs chain travel as well (more stress)
And as I mentioned before incorrect slack damages other parts.

ps. chain must also be inspected for tight links as locked joints creates more heat and are more likely to brake, despite the fact that chain is still not stretched to the limit.

pps. Broken chain is safety hazard to the bike, to you and to other people riding behind.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
An easy way to monitor chain wear that is not related to adjustment position of the axle:
With one hand either squeeze the chain together or pull up on the chain between on the swingarm and take all the slack out of the chain so it is tight against the sprockets. Now with your other hand at the rear sprocket at the 3 o'clock or directly rearward pull the chain away from the sprocket while holding the chain tight. If you can pull the chain roller half way or more up the length of the sprocket tooth, the chain needs to be replaced. As the chain wears the center distance between the rollers increases and the chain begins riding up higher on the sprocket teeth. This is what wears out the sprocket as the teeth wear rapidly as the chain rides higher on the tooth. This is why a very worn sprocket begins to get a saw tooth look to it as the chain is riding up and wearing the sprocket teeth over the top. If you keep your chain in good shape the sprockets will wear very little. In the old days I used to use several chains to one set of sprockets. Now days with o-ring chains it is common practice to replace the sprockets and chains together though in my opinion this is not always necessary if your chain is kept in good shape.

Dan
The most I could force that 3'0clock link away from the sproket was just under 3mm. And that was pushing with a flat blade screwdriver. The height of the sprocket tooth from the valley is 8mm.
Mike
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Here are some pics of the front and back sprockets. (Again - apologies for the rotated pics, there ought to be a rotation tool in the post editing window). The teeth look good to me and since the chain doesn't seem too bad, I'm inclined to buy a good chain and fit it myself.
Mike
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Sprockets looks fine. But do I see DID made chain? Is it original chain? Looks like at least for AT honda chose a better chain brand. There seems to be a lot of dirt around sprocket, don't forget to clean it and inspect chain sliders.
ps. I would go for only chain change as well.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Sprockets looks fine. But do I see DID made chain? Is it original chain? Looks like at least for AT honda chose a better chain brand. There seems to be a lot of dirt around sprocket, don't forget to clean it and inspect chain sliders.
ps. I would go for only chain change as well.
Yes - it's the original chain fitted by Honda. I have now cleaned all around the front sprocket which in the picture looks very rusty. But in fact the sprocket face is in excellent condition and was covered in rust dust which presumably is coming from that washer. The sliders you are talking about are presumably fastened to the top and underside of the swingarm.
Mike
 

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Discussion Starter #20
Rather surprisingly a search on here throws up very few posts about replacement chains. Anyone know the size and length I need .... and which make to go for?
Mike
 
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