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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
So looking at the manual does not help. I don’t have the tool that supposedly came with the bike and I am not sure what I am supposed to me turning. I see the screw on top,then the blue bolt,then the silver one. I have used a wrench to turn the blue but do not hear the click. What am I doing wrong?


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The blue bolt is the adjuster for the spring pre-load. Turning clockwise increases the pre-load. There are no "clicks" with the blue bolt, just turns. The full range is about 15 turns (completed 360deg turns of the blue bolt). The standard position is 5 turns (from full soft - full counterclockwise) for the manual transmission and 8.5 turns for the DCT. Same adjustment on both forks.

The inner screw head (at the center of the blue bolt) is to adjust the rebound damping. Turning it clockwise increases the rebound damping. To adjust - turn it fully clockwise (max damping) and then back off (counterclockwise) 2.25 turns for the standard position. The full range adjustment is 3 to 4 turns.

The compression damping adjuster is the screw head at the base of each fork leg (to see this look up from underneath each fork leg directly along the axis of the leg). This screw head does have clicks. Maximum damping is fully clockwise. Standard position is backed of from full by 8 clicks. The total range is approx 12 clicks.

No special tools needed - just a wrench for the blue bolt (19mm if I remember correctly) and a straight head screwdriver for the compression and rebound damping screws.


Hope this helps,
 

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On my Africa Twin Adventure Sport. When I turn the Blue Spring Preload bolt, the rebound screw turns with it. So be careful to Readjust the rebound screw if you change the Preload.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
The blue bolt is the adjuster for the spring pre-load. Turning clockwise increases the pre-load. There are no "clicks" with the blue bolt, just turns. The full range is about 15 turns (completed 360deg turns of the blue bolt). The standard position is 5 turns (from full soft - full counterclockwise) for the manual transmission and 8.5 turns for the DCT. Same adjustment on both forks.

The inner screw head (at the center of the blue bolt) is to adjust the rebound damping. Turning it clockwise increases the rebound damping. To adjust - turn it fully clockwise (max damping) and then back off (counterclockwise) 2.25 turns for the standard position. The full range adjustment is 3 to 4 turns.

The compression damping adjuster is the screw head at the base of each fork leg (to see this look up from underneath each fork leg directly along the axis of the leg). This screw head does have clicks. Maximum damping is fully clockwise. Standard position is backed of from full by 8 clicks. The total range is approx 12 clicks.

No special tools needed - just a wrench for the blue bolt (19mm if I remember correctly) and a straight head screwdriver for the compression and rebound damping screws.


Hope this helps,


Thanks! Now it makes sense!


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If you are looking for a stiffer front, I have heard mention that several riders have gone with a heavier fork oil in the front. Haven't tried it myself, though.
 

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aage - You have raised an interesting point about the rebound adjuster turning when the pre load adjuster is turned.

The pre load adjuster and rebound adjuster have pock marks lined up to indicate the factory setting for the rebound adjuster. From that its my understanding is that its the position of the rebound screw relative to the pre load screw that sets the rebound damping.

So if I am correct , when you turn the pre load adjuster the rebound adjuster will turn with it but the relative position of the two will remain the same, hence rebound damping will remain un changed.

Does anyone know for sure
 

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aage - You have raised an interesting point about the rebound adjuster turning when the pre load adjuster is turned.

The pre load adjuster and rebound adjuster have pock marks lined up to indicate the factory setting for the rebound adjuster. From that its my understanding is that its the position of the rebound screw relative to the pre load screw that sets the rebound damping.

So if I am correct , when you turn the pre load adjuster the rebound adjuster will turn with it but the relative position of the two will remain the same, hence rebound damping will remain un changed.

Does anyone know for sure
That's what I was thinking too - it needs clarifying
Mike
 

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That's what I was thinking too - it needs clarifying
Mike
Easy to clarify yourself in about 2 minutes, after adjusting the preload just wind the damping adjuster fully in and back off to the number of clicks you prefer/had set at previously.
 
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For the front suspension spring preload, how many turns are you allowed? Is there a way to reset it all the way back? I think I might have done a booboo. I lost count and made different no of turns in the left and right. Dammit!
 

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I believe it's written in the owner's manual... :wink2:
I checked and don't think it mentions how to "reset" it? I don't want to keep running the bike with different settings on the left and right shocks.
 

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For the front suspension spring preload, how many turns are you allowed? Is there a way to reset it all the way back? I think I might have done a booboo. I lost count and made different no of turns in the left and right. Dammit!
The blue bolt is the adjuster for the spring pre-load. Turning clockwise increases the pre-load. The full range is about 15 turns (completed 360deg turns of the blue bolt). The standard position is 5 turns (from full soft - full counterclockwise) for the manual transmission and 8.5 turns for the DCT. Same adjustment on both forks. So, to "reset" it, turn both blue bolts fully counterclockwise (they will stop when they get to the end of their travel), and then turn both the same number of turns clockwise - 5 turns for manual, and 8.5 turns for DCT bike if you want the standard pre-load.
 

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The blue bolt is the adjuster for the spring pre-load. Turning clockwise increases the pre-load. The full range is about 15 turns (completed 360deg turns of the blue bolt). The standard position is 5 turns (from full soft - full counterclockwise) for the manual transmission and 8.5 turns for the DCT. Same adjustment on both forks. So, to "reset" it, turn both blue bolts fully counterclockwise (they will stop when they get to the end of their travel), and then turn both the same number of turns clockwise - 5 turns for manual, and 8.5 turns for DCT bike if you want the standard pre-load.
Thank you very much! Those were the magic words - "(they will stop when they get to the end of their travel)". That is what I really wanted to do - to "reset" them. Will try this out today. Thanks again!
 

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I checked and don't think it mentions how to "reset" it? I don't want to keep running the bike with different settings on the left and right shocks.
Manual (as usual!) is not very clear but has the exact same information @TMac99 provided to you.
It looks like you did not ever tried to follow instructions, i.e. putting the same settings on both shocks starting from softest position. :wink2:
 

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Manual (as usual!) is not very clear but has the exact same information @TMac99 provided to you.
It looks like you did not ever tried to follow instructions, i.e. putting the same settings on both shocks starting from softest position. :wink2:
Since you wrote the manual, I would like you to show me where it says how you can get it back to factory settings or like my case, reset it completely.

Also, sorry sir but some of us have not owned big bikes before this with so many settings and options. Maybe you have owned many. This is my first big bike. Thanks for helping me though.
 

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Since you wrote the manual, I would like you to show me where it says how you can get it back to factory settings or like my case, reset it completely.

Also, sorry sir but some of us have not owned big bikes before this with so many settings and options. Maybe you have owned many. This is my first big bike. Thanks for helping me though.
Pg.121 in the owner's manual is where you find instructions and standard setting for all the adjusters.
I left all mine stock/standard and seems to handle everything fine. I'm about 200lbs with gear and don't carry much onboard.
When panniers and luggage go on, I just add rear preload and nothing else.
 
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Pg.121 in the owner's manual is where you find instructions and standard setting for all the adjusters.
I left all mine stock/standard and seems to handle everything fine. I'm about 200lbs with gear and don't carry much onboard.
When panniers and luggage go on, I just add rear preload and nothing else.
Yes, I managed to get them back to stock. And adjusted the rear preload for the ride last weekend with pillion.
 

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So if I am correct , when you turn the pre load adjuster the rebound adjuster will turn with it but the relative position of the two will remain the same, hence rebound damping will remain un changed.

Does anyone know for sure
Correct, when you turn the preload to a higher setting, rebound adjustment remains unchanged.

In a little more detail.
The damping in the front forks works in a way that a cartridge is fixed to the bottom of the forks, and a rod with a piston at the end is moving in the cartridge displacing hydraukic fluid. The bending shims on the cartridge are regulating the damping. This damping rod in fact is a small diameter tube, and iside there is a thinner rod with a sharply pointed end. This pointed end is moved closer or farther from an orifice (or a hole with a sharply macgined edge) to provide a bleed circuit what regulates a bypass flow of fluid regulating baseline rebound damping. As the damping rod and inside bypass asjustment rod are moving together, their relative position is unchanged when you're addinf preload - which is essentially to pre-compress the spring.
Hope it helps.
 
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