Nice it works for you, but seeing these detailed settings kind of worry me, I was always told and in my tests I found that it correlates, that the rebound and compression should notBig shout out to Motociclo on the ADV Rider forum. I asked for recommendations for stock suspension comp & rebound and his suggestions were spot on.
I'm 150 lbs wet; 165 lbs in riding gear with hydration backpack. 2017 AT standard has SWM crash guards, bash pan, rack & Touratech pannier racks. No bags.
Sag I've set spring preload - 20 clicks in on rear, front at OEM settings.
The shock at OEM settings and 1-2 clicks either way was horrible on rocky uphills - hard to keep traction accelerating uphill on corrugated gravel with the rear hammering up and down. Front diving hard through cross ditches or when landing log jumps.
Following Motociclo's suggestions I set the suspension as follows:
Fork reb 3/4 turns from hard in
Fork comp 1 click (0 being the first click) from full in (It bleeds so much through this circuit. Adjuster really doesn't do much)
Shock reb to 2 clicks out (stock rebound valving is very weak)
Shock comp to 8 clicks (This adjuster works pretty good. Really is adjust to taste)
The bike is now more composed jumping logs and with much better traction accelerating on rocky uphills.
I'm a Mech Engineer. I understand suspension basics and I know how to set SAG, but I'm not an expert in the design of shim sticks, low & high speed damping etc. Once you realize Honda did not design the AT with a nicely balanced and linearly adjustable suspension for off-road use you begin to explore how to get good performance from the stock boingers. You don't have to spend $ with suspension tuners if you are 75kg and lightly loaded to get good performance - you just have to understand the suspension limitations and work with it. Some are very happy with soft and plush and only ride pavement.Nice it works for you, but seeing these detailed settings kind of worry me, I was always told and in my tests I found that it correlates, that the rebound and compression should not end up at much different adjustments between front and rear, because this can horribly unbalance the motorcycle.
Your compression seems dangerously far in my opinion, just 11/12 on the front and rear 8/20 (if I remember correctly max on mine was 20 clicks), so that would mean your rear
compression is only 44% that from the front, this seems kind of dangerous to me, I don't see Honda giving totally different compression characteristics to forks against shock,
especially that from OEM settings, compression are within 6% from each other and rebound are within 4%.
Maybe some suspension Guru could chime in, but to my engineer logic this doesn't seem a good idea at all to use these settings, not dissing you or Motociclo but you know how
sometimes a lot of dangerous stuff float around forums.
Mine is adjusted for road, but I can't imagine off-road settings being so far from road ones, maybe I'm wrong so if someone can give some serious experience here.
I'm 74kg so like you I didn't need to up the forks preload much, if i recall correctly, mine is at 7.5 so middle of the spring range which is fine, mostly like you I'm at 22 in the backI'm a Mech Engineer. I understand suspension basics and I know how to set SAG, but I'm not an expert in the design of shim sticks, low & high speed damping etc. Once you realize Honda did not design the AT with a nicely balanced and linearly adjustable suspension for off-road use you begin to explore how to get good performance from the stock boingers. You don't have to spend $ with suspension tuners if you are 75kg and lightly loaded to get good performance - you just have to understand the suspension limitations and work with it. Some are very happy with soft and plush and only ride pavement.
If you want to read about the limitations of the AT suspension there's 167+ pages here https://advrider.com/f/threads/africa-twin-crf1000l-suspension.1155122/page-167
Essentially the fork is really old school and the shock of more recent design. From a proper suspension design and functionality viewpoint both are under sprung for anyone over 75kg. That's why I've the shock at 20clicks in to get proper rider suspension SAG - bike with rider should use ⅓ of suspension travel with your normal riding load.
The shock rebound damping is very weak (hence my traction problem on corrugated gravel) too weak to control the stock spring. Anyone heavier installing stiffer spring to get proper SAG will need to have the shock revalved. the compression damping works pretty good.
The fork compression damping bleeds so much through the circuit the adjustment really doesn't do much until nearly closed - effective range is the first 2-3 clicks off bottom, hence my problem bottoming through ditches or diving when street riding. Well recognized problem - Cogent has a solution - https://www.motocd.com/product/honda-crf1000l-africa-twin-revalve-kit-cogent-1-kit/
I'm 75kg and I've been riding for 50 years. The stock AT suspension is budget but works for me when properly adjusted, though I'd rather a stiffer rear spring so I don't have to use so much pre-load to get proper sag.I'm 92kg. Have done tens of thousands of kilometres fully loaded on and offroad. I still maintain the suspension is fine for all but the most extreme riders. It's plush and does its job without issue. If you feel you need it then upgrade your suspension but I don't agree that it's a night and day difference as some riders report. Try out a stock and one with an updated suspension see if you can tell measurably how different they are.
Suspension looks just fine on this other post here on the forum (AT not far off super bike times for laps without having any pretension of being a sport bike) - https://www.africatwinforum.com/forum/129-honda-crf1000l-africa-twin-videos/35193-worth-watch.html
I know I'm not that skilled off-road, but I rode back to back R1200GS on enduro mode with knobbies and my AT with 80/20 tires in a quarry, the AT was moreI’m 6’-2” 210lb striped I’ve done a lot of off road races in my younger years & still ride my Honda 450x. The AT is an incredible machine ,the suspension is capable of handling anything you want to ride, depending on the skill level of the rider. For me being on the heavier side , I needed to go with a heavier shock spring , this made a huge difference especially when loaded up with all my camping gear. I have ridden the California BDR ride & Arizona BDR ride from start to finish with no issues, the AT at 500lbs plus is a fantastic motorcycle.
TrueAll springs ever made create more force, by adding more preload to the spring, that’s a fact
Your description above is spot on concerning what we want, but that formula is for a leaf spring (as fitted to a truck or railway carriage). At least that what this article shows. And the same article provides a formula for a coil spring (as fitted to a motorcycle) that is probably more appropriate and says that spring stiffness is proportional to several things, but overall length of the spring does not seem to be one of them:True
F is the force
k is the spring constant
x is the displacement or amount the suspension travels
Ideally you want to achieve proper rider suspension sag (⅓ of travel) with minimum preload. Heavier riders and heavily loaded bikes work better with stiffer springs than stock. Allow you to stay in the working zone of the suspension without bottoming outdo often.