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CRF1100 DCT 2021
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
For many reasons I really dislike Android Auto. Don’t like it on cars but on the AT I found it really infuriating.

I just want to charge the phone on the AT USB connector and leave the bike screen just for the bike while keeping Google maps and all android apps on the phone.
But every time I plug the phone to the AT USB connector or restart the bike with the phone connected, Android Auto begins to try to auto start or nags trying to, sometimes sequestering the whole screen while minimizing google maps on the phone screen to just a very tiny window. I’ve try all settings on the phone and the AT settings without luck, the nagging keeps returning until I disconnect the USB cable. But then the phone battery begins to drain very quick if you are navigating by the phone with the screen on at full brightness all day long.

Can’t uninstall Android Auto (Android One 10) and disabling it doesn’t stops the nagging. When connected to the bike the USB preferences on the phone disappears; don’t have the option to stop data transfer. Unpaired bluetooth, headset and phone on the bike settings and the nagging keeps returning.

I’ve read you have to get and only charging USB cable (no data wires) or use a car charger -ludicrous!! 🤬
 

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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
well, I managed to get an only charging USB cable and that solves the issue, but still thinks is kind of ludicrous and infuriating
 

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I don't have it on my 19 so just a thought, turn phone off or airplane mode.
 

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Set USB to charging only instead of data transfer, it won't be able to do AA then. It'll be in your settings.
 

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Ponzan...I'm having similar issues but even when I want Android Auto to stay on, it just cycles - Android Auto connected - it just keeps repeating every few seconds. Can't turn it off and can't make it stay on consistently. I'll try the USB data only cable but would like to have it work with a normal cable. Any suggestions?
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Ponzan...I'm having similar issues but even when I want Android Auto to stay on, it just cycles - Android Auto connected - it just keeps repeating every few seconds. Can't turn it off and can't make it stay on consistently. I'll try the USB data only cable but would like to have it work with a normal cable. Any suggestions?
I'm afraid not; only way around I found was to use an only charge -no data- cable from some Bluetooth headphones I happen to have, try cables that come to charge some similar stuff, hope you can got a hand on one
 

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Ponzan...I'm having similar issues but even when I want Android Auto to stay on, it just cycles - Android Auto connected - it just keeps repeating every few seconds. Can't turn it off and can't make it stay on consistently. I'll try the USB data only cable but would like to have it work with a normal cable. Any suggestions?
You need a better cable. Get a certified USB 3.1 Gen1 or Gen 2 cable capable of transmitting at least 5 mbps data.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Let's get clear. This post was about how to disable Android Auto when you just want to charge the phone while riding on the AT and avoid Android Auto trying all the time to take over the bike screen.

I want to keep the bike screen for the bike info and settings, while navigating and using the Android Phone apps and functions on its own screen and at the same time using the AT USB connector just to keep the phone charging. For that you need an only charge cable.

So, I guess if you have issues when you want Android Auto to stay on (Ravenron), that may be a problem or malfunction of the cable you are using, as satx_tengu suggested.
 

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Let's get clear. This post was about how to disable Android Auto when you just want to charge the phone while riding on the AT and avoid Android Auto trying all the time to take over the bike screen.

I want to keep the bike screen for the bike info and settings, while navigating and using the Android Phone apps and functions on its own screen and at the same time using the AT USB connector just to keep the phone charging. For that you need an only charge cable.

So, I guess if you have issues when you want Android Auto to stay on (Ravenron), that may be a problem or malfunction of the cable you are using, as satx_tengu suggested.
Ponzan...forgive me for hi-jacking your thread. I would be happy with either outcome - either have AA work as advertised or not work at all. Having it turn on and off was definitely not good. I have ordered two cables - one to charge only (no data) and one that's USB 3.1 Gen 2. I'll see which one works best.

I certainly appreciate all the info gleaned here. And thanks to satx_tengu for the specs on the AA cable. Ride safe!
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Ponzan...forgive me for hi-jacking your thread. I would be happy with either outcome - either have AA work as advertised or not work at all...
No problem whasoever, we are all here to share, to help or get help, this is what is all about. Hope you get to make Android Auto to work for you or at least not against you ;)
Let us know how it goes with the new cables.
 

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So...I received both cables - charge only option and full data USB 3.1 Gen 2. Both work in their own way. The data does what Ponzan requested - charge only with no activation of AA. The full data cable allows full AA operation. Unfortunately, my seat is at Sargent getting customized so I can't ride test yet but things are now behaving as they should.

Thanks to all for the advice and information...you guys are the bomb!

Ron
 
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So...I received both cables - charge only option and full data USB 3.1 Gen 2. Both work in their own way. The data does what Ponzan requested - charge only with no activation of AA. The full data cable allows full AA operation. Unfortunately, my seat is at Sargent getting customized so I can't ride test yet but things are now behaving as they should.

Thanks to all for the advice and information...you guys are the bomb!

Ron
How much is Sargent charging for remaking the seat?
 

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just for the sake of clarity :geek:
Yep...casualty of thinking faster than I was typing (or vice versa :)). The charge only cable does (for me) exactly what you were asking for. That's the way to go and I was able to find it in a coiled version with a small USB A end which fit well behind the rubber stopper on the faring. Here's the link I used on Amazon: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07BSJ8VTN/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Good luck...hope it works for you...

Ron
 

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How much is Sargent charging for remaking the seat?
satx...It appears as though I'll the very first 2020+ seat they've sold. The new seat has been in development for a bit and was expected to be available mid-late May. Since I'm heading out on a trip for Memorial Day, they were kind enough to sell me one in time for that trip. The one I bought, unlike with the 2016-19 versions, will re-use my seat pan so it's a bit cheaper than previous models. I'm getting both seats (rider/pillion) for $422 and having it done in black with dark blue sides - reverse of the stock color scheme. I was concerned the stock scheme might be too much blue depending on their color shading.

I was unable to find any negative reviews on Sargent seats and, so far, their customer service has been absolutely superb. If you call, ask for Dane. He's been extremely patient and helpful, answering all my questions, sending pics of colors, etc. Overall, it's been a VERY positive experience. Now it's just killing me waiting to get my seat back 😏

Kind of a long answer but wanted to give it context...

I will now stop hi-jacking Ponzan's thread yet again 😝 Ride safe!
 
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I'm a bit confused as to why you guys are buying seperate cables. Putting a 12v USB plug in the OEM 12v socket will give you at least two USB fast charge ports with no interaction with the AA/Carplay system. The OEM USB port will not give you fast charging and requires you to carry different cables around.

63143
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
the standard AT doesn't come with a 12v socket plus the need of the extra USB plug
 
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