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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I want to install Hyper-Lites for flashing brakes and extra running lights. Has anyone installed Hyperlites? Link:

http://www.hyperlites.com/stdsf.html

I haven't dug into the tail yet, so I don't know what is involved with tapping into the lights. Or should I use the Eastern Beaver harness?

All I know is that the rear perspicuity is severely lacking. My wife trails me to work when we leave around the same time, and she is encouraging me to get this upgrade because the tail light is terrible compared to my previous bikes (even the KLR!). When your wife encourages you to spend money, you spend money. :smile2:
 
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I haven't used the Hyperlights, but did install Skene P3 lights basically the same thing). To get to the wiring harness, you do have to remove a bit at the back of the bike - nothing too hard to remove or replace. While it is possible to tap into the wiring back there, I opted to use the Easter Beaver harness, and that made the whole process pretty easy and I can always remove the install 100% cleanly. I would recommend the Eastern Beaver harness to make it a quick, easy, and neat install. The rear visibility is greatly improved and the "flashing when braking" of the Scene lights really gets people's attention when following me. A very worthwhile upgrade.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I haven't used the Hyperlights, but did install Skene P3 lights basically the same thing). To get to the wiring harness, you do have to remove a bit at the back of the bike - nothing too hard to remove or replace. While it is possible to tap into the wiring back there, I opted to use the Easter Beaver harness, and that made the whole process pretty easy and I can always remove the install 100% cleanly. I would recommend the Eastern Beaver harness to make it a quick, easy, and neat install. The rear visibility is greatly improved and the "flashing when braking" of the Scene lights really gets people's attention when following me. A very worthwhile upgrade.
Thank you for your feedback and experience. Do you recall if you got the plain harness (V1) or the one that supports a harness (V2)?

Version 1 - all wires are take-offs from stock wires. Red wire is brake, blue wire is tail, and black is ground.

Version 2 - brakelight wire has input (purple) and output (red) wires for BackOff type modulators. Tail light wire (blue) and ground (black) are take-offs from stock wires.​
 

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Dave - Since I wanted to give my stock brake light the flashing capability, I got Version 2. Using this version of the cable, it was easy to wire the flashing unit "in line" with the OEM brake light so that it also flashes along with the additional Skene P3 lights.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Dave - Since I wanted to give my stock brake light the flashing capability, I got Version 2. Using this version of the cable, it was easy to wire the flashing unit "in line" with the OEM brake light so that it also flashes along with the additional Skene P3 lights.
Interesting. Did you use a modulator module then? Do you have a schematic?
 

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I used the Backoff modulator and the Eastern Beaver V2 harness. Wiring was super simple, into the Backoff with the purple wire, out from the Backoff to the red wire.

I also tapped the brake light cable ahead of the Backoff for signal to the Admore brake/turn signal module I added below the license plate.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
I used the Backoff modulator and the Eastern Beaver V2 harness. Wiring was super simple, into the Backoff with the purple wire, out from the Backoff to the red wire.

I also tapped the brake light cable ahead of the Backoff for signal to the Admore brake/turn signal module I added below the license plate.
The Backoff sounds remarkably easy to use. I've not heard of Admore, but it looks from their website like a simple LED bar?
 

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Interesting. Did you use a modulator module then? Do you have a schematic?
I used a Skene Design P3 system (http://www.skenelights.com/online-store/Rear-Visibility-Systems-c22720602) - it comes with a modulator and 2 LED lights. I wired it (using the V2 Eastern Beaver harness) so that my OEM light and the 2 Skene LED lights function as both my tail light and brake lights. I don't think I can post a video, but PM me with your email address and I will take a video of it and send to you if you'd like to see it in action. The SKene comes with the required wiring diagram. It was pretty easy - the most time consuming part was removing the rear pieces of the bike to get to the OEM light harness so I could plug the Eastern Beaver harness into it, but it was all pretty easy to do. From memory it took an hour or two start to finish.
 

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The Backoff sounds remarkably easy to use. I've not heard of Admore, but it looks from their website like a simple LED bar?
Nope. It's an awesome multifunction bit of LED wizardry:

• Brake light (red LED) with built in modulation and automatic flasher for when you are stopped
• Progressive animated yellow LED turn signals
• Accelerometer that illuminates brake light on rapid deceleration even if brakes are not actuated
• USB programmable

It's very well built and with the dark tint looks pretty stealth.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
I went ahead with my plan after absorbing feedback. I bought the Hyper-Lites U32 kit, with brake and running: DF-U32-MOD. I also bought the bracket. Then, I bought the Eastern Beaver CRF1000L Brake/Tail Adapter V1 harness. Most of the time was spent waiting for the goods from Japan to arrive, and they did yesterday.

I spent the morning cleaning the garage, scouring it for parts I've set aside to install on the AT. I put them in a safe place, and now I can't find them. To guard against that, I immediately began to install the lights.

First, I came back here and on ADVRider to see how to install the Eastern Beaver harness. Some people were of the opinion that you don't need to remove the rear rack. These people clearly did not use the harness. You absolutely need to remove the rear rack to get to the tail light plug. You do NOT need to do that to get to the wires, if you just want to tap into the circuit. But if you want to use the harness, or if you want to cleanly get the wires inside, bite the bullet and remove the rack.

On these images, you can click through to go to Flickr and see them full size.



By the way, deciding to remove the rack leads to the most work. I had to remove my pannier rack too, and ultimately the side covers. My advice is to just do it. Trying to keep these things on just prolongs the agony and slows things down. To get the rack off, you need to pop the side covers to get to the socket head screw (allen bolt) that holds on the rack. To do that, I had to remove the pannier rack since the Tusk racks sit in the slots that the OEM luggage sits on. I worked with the side covers kinda off, and wished I had just removed the **** things. Getting them off was 5 minutes work once you get past the fear of braking tabs. Repairing trim and holding them out of the way at times was just stupid. Just do it. /sermon=off

With some advice, this next part can be fast. We really need a page on how to get these connectors apart. I spent so long trying to get the one under the rear seat apart, because someone said the harness connects there. Then, just getting the rear brake plug off... sheesh. I tried for a while, then just used a flat head screwdriver to depress the visible connector, and it eventually popped apart. If you know how to do that, installing the harness is super easy.





The Hyper-Lites come with two Posi-Twist connectors to bind the three brown wires together and the three blue wiires together. One each brown and blue come from the controller, and one each comes from each light, making three wires.

The Hyper-Lites come with three Posi-Taps, so that you can tap into the OEM wires. I have done that in the past, and always hated myself afterwards. That's why I got the Eastern Beaver harness. With it, I have simple wire-ends. I used Posi-Lock connectors to splice the three wires together. I had a few on hand, but also bought a new kit from WebBikeWorld since I was running out. BTW, I found out that wBW was sold; good for Rick, now he can retire.

For reference, red goes to red, black goes to black, and blue goes to gray. Or is it grey on this site?



You can sorta see the green loop coming out of the controller. Intact, the Hyper-Lites continually flash while the brakes are applied. Cut it, and the lights will flash 5 times and then go solid on. I didn't know what I wanted, so I planned on bringing the controller to the "public" side so that I could do it later without removing the **** rack again.

By going slowly and reading carefully, the lights worked the first time! I was kinda surprised that I couldn't get a picture with both lights on. I know that LEDs strobe, and that they just look solid on. I didn't think my phones shutter speed was fast enough to capture that effect. Oh! I bet the controller strobes them even more so that they appear dim as running lights. Maybe?



One major decision for me was how to breech the water tightness and get the wires from the lights in. I decided to drill into the license plate light. Inside that is a nice hollow space with a large opening to continue the wires into the bike. Perfect. So I took off the housing, drilled a hole, shrink wrapped more of the blue-green wires, and routed them inside. That is fast to say, but ciphering this out took time.

Meanwhile, thunder storms were arriving. Did I mention it was 95F and 150% humidity?



I knew I wanted to wrap the wires as protection against chafing. The green wrap goes back to the license plate light housing. The black wrap goes from the controller to the brake light space where all the wires sit. The controller is presently slumbering next to the fuse box. Here's the money shot.



Well, that wasn't really the money shot, since you will want to know how they look. I did take a video, but it is very sad. Watching it, you'd believe the OEM brakelight is bright as the sun. It isn't the worst I've seen, but it isn't adequate in my personal opinion. I'm going to have my wife trail me and do a video under typical circumstances. Stay tuned for that. Meanwhile, you can see the awful video here.

Hope this helps future installers! :)
 

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I went ahead with my plan after absorbing feedback. I bought the Hyper-Lites U32 kit, with brake and running: DF-U32-MOD. I also bought the bracket. Then, I bought the Eastern Beaver CRF1000L Brake/Tail Adapter V1 harness. Most of the time was spent waiting for the goods from Japan to arrive, and they did yesterday.

I spent the morning cleaning the garage, scouring it for parts I've set aside to install on the AT. I put them in a safe place, and now I can't find them. To guard against that, I immediately began to install the lights.

First, I came back here and on ADVRider to see how to install the Eastern Beaver harness. Some people were of the opinion that you don't need to remove the rear rack. These people clearly did not use the harness. You absolutely need to remove the rear rack to get to the tail light plug. You do NOT need to do that to get to the wires, if you just want to tap into the circuit. But if you want to use the harness, or if you want to cleanly get the wires inside, bite the bullet and remove the rack.

On these images, you can click through to go to Flickr and see them full size.



By the way, deciding to remove the rack leads to the most work. I had to remove my pannier rack too, and ultimately the side covers. My advice is to just do it. Trying to keep these things on just prolongs the agony and slows things down. To get the rack off, you need to pop the side covers to get to the socket head screw (allen bolt) that holds on the rack. To do that, I had to remove the pannier rack since the Tusk racks sit in the slots that the OEM luggage sits on. I worked with the side covers kinda off, and wished I had just removed the **** things. Getting them off was 5 minutes work once you get past the fear of braking tabs. Repairing trim and holding them out of the way at times was just stupid. Just do it. /sermon=off

With some advice, this next part can be fast. We really need a page on how to get these connectors apart. I spent so long trying to get the one under the rear seat apart, because someone said the harness connects there. Then, just getting the rear brake plug off... sheesh. I tried for a while, then just used a flat head screwdriver to depress the visible connector, and it eventually popped apart. If you know how to do that, installing the harness is super easy.





The Hyper-Lites come with two Posi-Twist connectors to bind the three brown wires together and the three blue wiires together. One each brown and blue come from the controller, and one each comes from each light, making three wires.

The Hyper-Lites come with three Posi-Taps, so that you can tap into the OEM wires. I have done that in the past, and always hated myself afterwards. That's why I got the Eastern Beaver harness. With it, I have simple wire-ends. I used Posi-Lock connectors to splice the three wires together. I had a few on hand, but also bought a new kit from WebBikeWorld since I was running out. BTW, I found out that wBW was sold; good for Rick, now he can retire.

For reference, red goes to red, black goes to black, and blue goes to gray. Or is it grey on this site?



You can sorta see the green loop coming out of the controller. Intact, the Hyper-Lites continually flash while the brakes are applied. Cut it, and the lights will flash 5 times and then go solid on. I didn't know what I wanted, so I planned on bringing the controller to the "public" side so that I could do it later without removing the **** rack again.

By going slowly and reading carefully, the lights worked the first time! I was kinda surprised that I couldn't get a picture with both lights on. I know that LEDs strobe, and that they just look solid on. I didn't think my phones shutter speed was fast enough to capture that effect. Oh! I bet the controller strobes them even more so that they appear dim as running lights. Maybe?



One major decision for me was how to breech the water tightness and get the wires from the lights in. I decided to drill into the license plate light. Inside that is a nice hollow space with a large opening to continue the wires into the bike. Perfect. So I took off the housing, drilled a hole, shrink wrapped more of the blue-green wires, and routed them inside. That is fast to say, but ciphering this out took time.

Meanwhile, thunder storms were arriving. Did I mention it was 95F and 150% humidity?



I knew I wanted to wrap the wires as protection against chafing. The green wrap goes back to the license plate light housing. The black wrap goes from the controller to the brake light space where all the wires sit. The controller is presently slumbering next to the fuse box. Here's the money shot.



Well, that wasn't really the money shot, since you will want to know how they look. I did take a video, but it is very sad. Watching it, you'd believe the OEM brakelight is bright as the sun. It isn't the worst I've seen, but it isn't adequate in my personal opinion. I'm going to have my wife trail me and do a video under typical circumstances. Stay tuned for that. Meanwhile, you can see the awful video here.

Hope this helps future installers! :)
Awesome job Dave, that helps me a lot, especially the pics, I will attempt this job on the spring.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Awesome job Dave, that helps me a lot, especially the pics, I will attempt this job on the spring.
I'm glad you found it useful. The hardest part was sorting out the routing. Other than that, it was easy. Good luck!
 

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I had them on my last bike, an ST1300, and I think they're great for getting peoples' attention in traffic.

Now I just need to find a headlight modulator for the front.
 
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