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Keeping’em Moderatorated
2018 Adventure Sports DCT
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3,128 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I’ve come to the conclusion that Honda purposely engineered this bike (the AS) to keep you form adding aftermarket items, especially electronics. All I want to do is add a double relay to the high beams so my hyper-spot off road lights come on with my high beams. Simple right ? WRONG! Honda has pretty much hidden every wire and relay on this bike behind something, like that above mentioned relay. The ‘17’s and below are behind the right side rear cowling take that off and a small cover over it and wa-laa there they are. The AS are kinda there too, but covered by that POS one huge piece inner fender.. so you need to drop both rear cowlings the CDI box and in my case (no fault of Honda’s ) my pannier rack and a few other things so you can access. So attack plan Bravo, I’ll have to see about access to the ground side of the high beam light or the wire for the high beam switch itself. Either way I’ll be stripping a whole bunch more plastic to try and get accesses to the plastic behind that plastic to access the wires behind that. I’m pretty sure Honda could of shaved 50# off this bike just by eliminating the plastic behind the outer plastic. Lol everything on this bike has at LEAST one layer of plastic behind the outer plastic, seems the only reason for it is for barring you from access to the things behind it...
 

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I thought they were behind the front right, not rear right for both model years.

I have a '17 and it's behind the FRONT right cowling, NOT "right side rear cowling".

And I have my foglights wired to the highbeam OEM switch which also activates my foglights, backlight foglight switch, foglight indicator. And if all I wanted to do is activate the foglights ONLY then I can press the OEM foglight switch. Or press the switch button on the handlebar if I need to activate the foglights on the fly.

Pretty niffty setup for a guy who knows jack about electrical wiring, if I do say so myself. ;)
 

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Keeping’em Moderatorated
2018 Adventure Sports DCT
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Discussion Starter · #3 · (Edited)
I thought they were behind the front right, not rear right for both model years.

I have a '17 and it's behind the FRONT right cowling, NOT "right side rear cowling".

And I have my foglights wired to the highbeam OEM switch which also activates my foglights, backlight foglight switch, foglight indicator. And if all I wanted to do is activate the foglights ONLY then I can press the OEM foglight switch. Or press the switch button on the handlebar if I need to activate the foglights on the fly.

Pretty niffty setup for a guy who knows jack about electrical wiring, if I do say so myself. ;)
On the ‘18 AS that don’t come with the fog light switch (but I installed one)
The accessory pigtails are there to plug the fog lights into but the relays are under the seat on the right side pretty much right above and behind the big “Y” section on the frame. If you have the seat off you can see the tops of 3 relays on the right side half way between the fuse box and tail of the gas tank. Forward most one is the relay for the high beam/pass switch.
I’m pretty sure the hot wire runs down behind the front left side cowling tho. On my Kaw. I had them set as a double relay, they would automatically come on when I hit the high beams or I could turn them off so they didn’t or turn them on independently. My other set of lights are Uber bright amber fog lights that I use as daytime running lights they are hooked up to the OEM fog light switch I installed.. But my hyper spots aren’t road legal, but I do use them in remote areas and unimproved roads and two tracks. Those things will incinerate close flying bugs and cause sunburns if you stand in front of them for to long :grin2:
My point was to do pretty much the same thing as you but I wanted to active it only with the OEM high beam switch and do it by a double relay so I don’t put all that extra wattage on the stock fuse or wiring. I can still do it but I’ll just have to run some extra wires from the front to under the seat for the relay for the lights I’m hooking up.
I know the harness and plugs are up front but I sure don’t recall any relays/switches up there. Also the wire for the high beam too.. I’m almost certain that my the two rigid industries lights only draw 4 amps for both of them so it’s not a huge strain on the fuse but..
 
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I think once you've had the front apart and all the plastics off once or twice it's not really that bad. Much ado about nothing. The bike is never 'designed for modifications'. If you want to change it, you may have to do some monkeying around. You'll get it. ;)
 

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Keeping’em Moderatorated
2018 Adventure Sports DCT
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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Here’s what’s - what under the seat and behind the headlights....
Interesting tho.... there’s another blank accessory plug under the seat too... don’t really matter I have a PDM 60 distribution module under the seat, love that thing, programmable, delay off 7 it had a delay on too, kinda nice - it takes about 20sec. to boot up and self-check. So it’s nice that none of the lights/accessory’s are not powered on while you’re starting the bike. So less strain on the system.
 

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Ahhh, I see...


I'm still new to this whole electrical wiring so I'm glad you brought this topic up because the last thing I want to do is place too much strain on the stock wiring/relays as you mentioned.

I’m pretty sure the hot wire runs down behind the front left side cowling tho.
Question: would it still be considered "hot wire" if I had the foglight wires connected to a PC8 switched post?

My point was to do pretty much the same thing as you but I wanted to activate it only with the OEM high beam switch and do it by a double relay so I don’t put all that extra wattage on the stock fuse or wiring.
By "double relay" do you mean a separate relay or piggy tailing off the existing?

If you meant latter then I think this is where I misunderstood your intentions because I have my spot & flood foglights on its separate relay.

I guess I could have used the existing OEM relays but I didn't want to splice/tap into the OEM wires. I took the plug-n-play approach.
 

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Keeping’em Moderatorated
2018 Adventure Sports DCT
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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Ahhh, I see...


I'm still new to this whole electrical wiring so I'm glad you brought this topic up because the last thing I want to do is place too much strain on the stock wiring/relays as you mentioned.



Question: would it still be considered "hot wire" if I had the foglight wires connected to a PC8 switched post?



By "double relay" do you mean a separate relay or piggy tailing off the existing?

If you meant latter then I think this is where I misunderstood your intentions because I have my spot & flood foglights on its separate relay.

I guess I could have used the existing OEM relays but I didn't want to splice/tap into the OEM wires. I took the plug-n-play approach.

I actually have some 24v relays that I converted to 12v they are one relay with 4 separate lines AND each of those lines have both a normally open and an normally closed lead. So one relay 4 independent lines :grin2: so I could of just swapped it out with the stock one hooked the original high beam to one line and the new spots to its own separate line lol and still had 2 more separate lines if I wanted anything else to come on with those too.
BTW no those relays are not automotive, years ago I pulled them out of some medical equipment. They are pretty sweet, having BOTH normally open and closed. So I could say, if I wanted to, hook the power for my amber fogs to the normally closed side (that is, if I could of hooked it up the way I wanted) then what would of happened when I powered the relay on for the headlight high beam & spots it would cut power to the fogs/ having one relay like these you can get really creative :wink2:
 

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Keeping’em Moderatorated
2018 Adventure Sports DCT
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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Ahhh, I see...


I'm still new to this whole electrical wiring so I'm glad you brought this topic up because the last thing I want to do is place too much strain on the stock wiring/relays as you mentioned.



Question: would it still be considered "hot wire" if I had the foglight wires connected to a PC8 switched post?



By "double relay" do you mean a separate relay or piggy tailing off the existing?

If you meant latter then I think this is where I misunderstood your intentions because I have my spot & flood foglights on its separate relay.

I guess I could have used the existing OEM relays but I didn't want to splice/tap into the OEM wires. I took the plug-n-play approach.
See above post too...

BTW not a huge issue the way you did it using the power from the high beam switch to power just the relay to activate/deactivate the installed lights. Relays typically have around a 150 milliamp draw, so it will not be an issue as long as it’s not a direct draw to power the installed lights. Sorry didn’t mean to scare you I was just being a drama queen and venting simply because all my leads for those lights are just right there and one relay swap a few crimp-on’s and done. That and I prefer not to tap stock wires (just my thing). Yea it’s still a “hot” wire ANY source with constant voltage is considered a “hot” wire yea you could “split hairs” and technically say no if the fuse block is considered normally open and all the leads are dead when the key is not on. So you do have it wired so the power from the OEM wire is powering the switch for the relay then one lead from your PC8 and one from your fog/spots right? Kinda like the basic diagram below, other switches and relays not withstanding..
 

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