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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I was assuming that when I go to collect my bike I will quickly be able to attach the lead for my warmnsafe heated gear, But someone on the NC forum suggests it's a big job to get at the battery - is that so?
Thanks
Mike
 

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The battery is behind the toolbox on the left hand side of the bike. To get to it you use an Allen key attached to the under side of the seat and undo 2 bolts which keeps the toolbox in place. There is not much room to get to the terminals so it is tricky.

There maybe an aux port somewhere assuming you didn't get the 12v socket attached to the dash but others will have to advise on that.
 

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Not as easy as under the seat, but not awful.

As Wilco said, undo the toolbox with the included, under the seat allen wrench. There is a plastic cover, hinged at the top that you lift, then pull on the suppled handle on the bottom and the battery slides out. At that point, you can add a ring terminals based power cord.

Ten minute job at worst.

Rob
 

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I would recommend wearing an extra layer of warm clothes and saving the battery connections for when you get home....

It's not a difficult job, but it takes a bit of patience to get to the battery connections.
 

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Not hard/difficult. Very straightforward, just not as convenient as under the seat. If you want to see ridiculous, take a look at Ducati's Monster 1200...

What I have found is; Theres not alot of room in the box. I use a Battery Tender and there was just enough room in there to route the cables with the fuse. While I'm trying to decide if I want to do a PC8, I temporarily added my GPS mounts wires and its fuse holder and its very tight. I had to slightly modify (cut some of the box) so the leads weren't pinched.
 

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I was assuming that when I go to collect my bike I will quickly be able to attach the lead for my warmnsafe heated gear, But someone on the NC forum suggests it's a big job to get at the battery - is that so?
Thanks
Mike
Not hard or technical just inconveniently placed. I took delivery of my AT in march and it took me about 15mins at the very most to connect my battery tender cable.
If you intend to run satnav,heated grips ect I recommend buying a Fuzeblock or Eastern Beaver PC-8 this will make your life so much easier as others on here will confirm.
 

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The dealer installed a battery tender on mine, since it was a demo model. Unfortunately, the negative post is in the back of the battery box, and the lead snagged. It was a tough job to slide the battery out as a result.

I've added an Eastern Beaver PC-8 fuse block, which I think is the best long-term solution. But, hooking up battery leads is a 10 minute job... just do it better than the dealer.
 

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If you go on the Eastern Beaver site and look at the installation for the PC-8 it gives a good description and images of how to route a fairly large feed set, off of the battery. I just fitted the PC-8 and the battery connections instructions worked a treat.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
If you go on the Eastern Beaver site and look at the installation for the PC-8 it gives a good description and images of how to route a fairly large feed set, off of the battery. I just fitted the PC-8 and the battery connections instructions worked a treat.
Did you have to take any plastics off?
Mike
 

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Just the lower tank trim on the battery side. Two small Allen bolts and dual lock trips. Note the two fixing bolts are different so look carefully when you remove them. Undo the earth and pull it clear. Then the battery slides forward so you can access the positive terminal. Just keep any feeds you are add nice and high and the the door closes afterwards.
 

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Ok so I read this as I wanted to check my battery.. What's the point of a 'toolbox' with no tools in it?? I also couldn't remove the battery once I'd accessed it, it seems the positive to the starter retains it... But knowledge gained.
 
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