Assuming this will work like for like on the ‘16, where do you recommend I get the resistors. Did you swap the rears as well? Thanks for the write up!Just thought I would share my experience swapping the stock 2 wire incandescent front turn signals over to LED.
I went with a set of these which were recommended elsewhere in the forum:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0725VHZM7
View attachment 73402
These are 3 wire LED signals with the 3rd wire meant to power the white running light. I taped over this connection and just used the yellow blinker wire and ground. This means a yellow running light instead of white, but that was fine with me.
I tested without resistors and as expected got a fast flash behavior. I added a 15Ω / 10W resistor per side which were left over from some Rizoma signals I used on another bike, which got me a normal blink rate.
View attachment 73403
I was a bit concerned that these resistors were undersized, but after a couple of hours of riding I checked them they were barely warm to the touch. This makes sense I think because this year AT outputs somewhere between 6-12V to power the running light which would be:
P = V^2 / R
= 6^2 / 15 = 2.4 W @ 6V and
= 12^2 / 15 = 9.6 W @ 12V
My understanding is we do get the full 12V when flashing, but this is not constant so I'm not too concerned.
As far as mounting goes I used the stock mount but had to remove the metal piece on the inside to get enough clearance to thread the nut onto the bolt. Overall I'm quite pleased with how things turned out.
More pictures:
View attachment 73404
View attachment 73405
View attachment 73406
LED Turn Signal Upgrade on 2017 w/ 2 Wire Incandescent Bulbs
Just thought I would share my experience swapping the stock 2 wire incandescent front turn signals over to LED.
I went with a set of these which were recommended elsewhere in the forum:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0725VHZM7
![Tire Fuel tank Wheel Plant Vehicle]()
These are 3 wire LED signals with the 3rd wire meant to power the white running light. I taped over this connection and just used the yellow blinker wire and ground. This means a yellow running light instead of white, but that was fine with me.
I tested without resistors and as expected got a fast flash behavior. I added a 15Ω / 10W resistor per side which were left over from some Rizoma signals I used on another bike, which got me a normal blink rate.
![Hand Tire Wheel Automotive tire Gesture]()
I was a bit concerned that these resistors were undersized, but after a couple of hours of riding I checked them they were barely warm to the touch. This makes sense I think because this year AT outputs somewhere between 6-12V to power the running light which would be:
P = V^2 / R
= 6^2 / 15 = 2.4 W @ 6V and
= 12^2 / 15 = 9.6 W @ 12V
My understanding is we do get the full 12V when flashing, but this is not constant so I'm not too concerned.
As far as mounting goes I used the stock mount but had to remove the metal piece on the inside to get enough clearance to thread the nut onto the bolt. Overall I'm quite pleased with how things turned out.
More pictures:
![Vehicle Plant Automotive lighting Automotive tire Motor vehicle]()
![Tire Wheel Automotive tire Vehicle Hood]()
![Automotive parking light Automotive lighting Hood Automotive tire Motor vehicle]()
I went with a set of these which were recommended elsewhere in the forum:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0725VHZM7
These are 3 wire LED signals with the 3rd wire meant to power the white running light. I taped over this connection and just used the yellow blinker wire and ground. This means a yellow running light instead of white, but that was fine with me.
I tested without resistors and as expected got a fast flash behavior. I added a 15Ω / 10W resistor per side which were left over from some Rizoma signals I used on another bike, which got me a normal blink rate.
I was a bit concerned that these resistors were undersized, but after a couple of hours of riding I checked them they were barely warm to the touch. This makes sense I think because this year AT outputs somewhere between 6-12V to power the running light which would be:
P = V^2 / R
= 6^2 / 15 = 2.4 W @ 6V and
= 12^2 / 15 = 9.6 W @ 12V
My understanding is we do get the full 12V when flashing, but this is not constant so I'm not too concerned.
As far as mounting goes I used the stock mount but had to remove the metal piece on the inside to get enough clearance to thread the nut onto the bolt. Overall I'm quite pleased with how things turned out.
More pictures:
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