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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I think the stock one is probably okay for most of what I want to do but I wouldn't mind one that is a little bit beefier. The issue of which one will work becomes very important when you need one that will work with the crash bars and center stand that you have already mounted. As those two items are already on the way, I need a skid plate that will work with both of them.

The SW Motech center stand has been paired with the Touratech crash bars. I know those bars aren't anyone favorite, but they'll offer at least some protection; once. Center stands all seem to be about the same.

Given the skid plate choices that are out there, if someone has found one they like that isn't a behemoth and DOES NOT mount directly to the engine, please chime in.

Thanks.

NC
 

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My Outback Motortek bash plate protects the engine cases well and has already smashed many rocks. It comes off easy for oil change with just three screws. The crash bars protect the radiators well and do not just bend when you really need them. Outback stuff is tough. But, it seems this combo will not work for you because their bash plate only mounts to their crash bars. Is it too late to cancel your order for the touratec?
 

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I have the touratec rally form skid plate. It's all rubber mounts between the plate and the mounting frame which bolts to the bike frame. I had to trim a good amount from the sides and front for it to fit with my outback motortek engine crash bars. But it is nice thin aluminum and it's all I need. Been through lots of rock gardens and it's holding up fine. I chose it because it isn't much heavier than the stock one but covers a lot more area and is smoother and doesn't have anything that will catch on logs or rocks like the skid plates with the sharp corner on the front. To be honest I don't understand the big thick aluminum ones, this isn't the type of bike you try to huck over a highway divider or climb rocks in ocotillo wells. You'll be surprised just how nasty of a rock garden you can get through without touching the skid plate on this bike. Of course it's the unseen washouts you blunder into on the other side of a knoll at 120km/h that it really saves you from.

Weight on the front end is critical, after adding crash bars my forks dropped an inch and I had to crank a lot of preload into the fork to regain it. If I had a heavier skid plate I may not have been able to crank enough preload in to get rid of the headshake, as it still does it a little but nothing I'm not used to on dirtbikes. Of course the next rate up in springs would solve that issue. I have yet to change the oil filter since changing the skid plate, but they say you need to remove the skid plate mounting frame to change the filter, which means another 4 bolts. Kind of a dumb design, but it looks rugged and I think I might be able to get the filter off without removing the frame just eyeballing it, will see.
 

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I have the touratec rally form skid plate. It's all rubber mounts between the plate and the mounting frame which bolts to the bike frame. I had to trim a good amount from the sides and front for it to fit with my outback motortek engine crash bars. But it is nice thin aluminum and it's all I need. Been through lots of rock gardens and it's holding up fine. I chose it because it isn't much heavier than the stock one but covers a lot more area and is smoother and doesn't have anything that will catch on logs or rocks like the skid plates with the sharp corner on the front. To be honest I don't understand the big thick aluminum ones, this isn't the type of bike you try to huck over a highway divider or climb rocks in ocotillo wells. You'll be surprised just how nasty of a rock garden you can get through without touching the skid plate on this bike. Of course it's the unseen washouts you blunder into on the other side of a knoll at 120km/h that it really saves you from.

Weight on the front end is critical, after adding crash bars my forks dropped an inch and I had to crank a lot of preload into the fork to regain it. If I had a heavier skid plate I may not have been able to crank enough preload in to get rid of the headshake, as it still does it a little but nothing I'm not used to on dirtbikes. Of course the next rate up in springs would solve that issue. I have yet to change the oil filter since changing the skid plate, but they say you need to remove the skid plate mounting frame to change the filter, which means another 4 bolts. Kind of a dumb design, but it looks rugged and I think I might be able to get the filter off without removing the frame just eyeballing it, will see.
I agree with coast2coast about protection overkill with Queens. I will bet that the only dirt 90% of these bikes ever touch is from the highway to their campsite. Most of these owners would find it cheaper to just make sure to pay their insurance premiums.
A few of us who have plenty of experience off road with big bikes like to find the wild way through the back country on our adventure trips.
 

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I went with the Touratech Rallyform skid plate as well. It is definitely beefier than the OEM stock plate and fits as Coast2Coast describes.

Pictured below is the OEM skid plate sitting inside the Rallyform skid plate



Pictured below is the skid plate on the bike:

 

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Hey Coast2Coast, thanks for the info.

Do you have the upper and lower bars from Outback? I have the uppers installed and am looking at skid plates- I really like the rally form plate. Were you able to just grind excess or was there more to it than that?

Has anyone out there tried the Altrider plate with Outback Motortek upper bars? I'm trying to achieve engine case protection w/o having to encase the bike in a maze of bars.

Cheers,
VicAT
 

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Hey Coast2Coast, thanks for the info.

Do you have the upper and lower bars from Outback? I have the uppers installed and am looking at skid plates- I really like the rally form plate. Were you able to just grind excess or was there more to it than that?
You bet, its a good setup if you're not looking for tank status armor and just want something better than the stock one that is still light weight. I do have both the upper and lower set. With just the upper set you would still have to cut about 3/4" off the front of the skid plate where it meets the frame because that's where the Outback mounts cross over. Just a few minutes with a zip disk, file, and spray bomb would be all you need.

To fit with their lower bars I had to trim some off the sides along the length of the lower bars. So it took me about an hour to do the whole thing because I just took my time shaving a few thousandths of an inch off with the grinder each time till I got the fit exact. If you have a manual you could also consider the extreme version if you want to go without lower bars because they wrap around quite a bit more on the sides than the regular lower crash bar version that I have. I have never seen that one on a bike though and it might interfere with the upper bars too because it comes up so high in the front.

You will also be able to change your oil filter without removing the frame for the skid plate. I remember that was a concern before anyone around here had purchased one, and I found there is just enough room to remove the oil filter and squeeze it through the gaps in the front of the skid plate frame. I had to use an oil filter steel strap wrench with a pivoting handle to loosen it the first time, but subsequent oil changes I can just loosen it by hand.
 

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I think the stock one is probably okay for most of what I want to do but I wouldn't mind one that is a little bit beefier. The issue of which one will work becomes very important when you need one that will work with the crash bars and center stand that you have already mounted. As those two items are already on the way, I need a skid plate that will work with both of them.

The SW Motech center stand has been paired with the Touratech crash bars. I know those bars aren't anyone favorite, but they'll offer at least some protection; once. Center stands all seem to be about the same.

Given the skid plate choices that are out there, if someone has found one they like that isn't a behemoth and DOES NOT mount directly to the engine, please chime in.

Thanks.

NC
Dude go big, B&B offroad they have 3 sizes if you dont want to commit, I think that Touratech one above is the best looking plate around with no welds but you dont end up with much side plate cover.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Are those the Touratech Crash Bars as well? I have already installed those and need a plate that is compatible with them. That black does look good.

NC


I went with the Touratech Rallyform skid plate as well. It is definitely beefier than the OEM stock plate and fits as Coast2Coast describes.

Pictured below is the OEM skid plate sitting inside the Rallyform skid plate



Pictured below is the skid plate on the bike:

 

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Are those the Touratech Crash Bars as well? I have already installed those and need a plate that is compatible with them. That black does look good.



NC


They are Touratech crash bars. They fit well together.




Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro. Random autocorrects and typos are my special gift to you.
 

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Has anyone ever had a problem with the stock skid plate?
Or we just assuming it is too small or weak for the average rider. I don’t plan on jumping logs but will be riding on gravel roads.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
I've decided to stick with the stocker for now. My concern is for what might get kicked up by the front tire and the stock one has worked so far. I don't do really hard core off-roading as all my ADV stuff is by myself and I don't want to ride that hard core alone and get into trouble.

NC


Has anyone ever had a problem with the stock skid plate?
Or we just assuming it is too small or weak for the average rider. I don’t plan on jumping logs but will be riding on gravel roads.
 

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Has anyone ever had a problem with the stock skid plate?
Or we just assuming it is too small or weak for the average rider. I don’t plan on jumping logs but will be riding on gravel roads.
I was stuck in a deep rut with the exhaust guard just touching the edges of the ground. The AT doesnt have huge ground clearance. Yes, it was not part of my normal riding on this bike to be in such a place but I though if i damage the exhaust manifold or the engine case then thats going to be expensive.

When the time comes to sell up, i'll take the additions off and sell separately to recoup some of the out lay.

It all depends on how and where you use your bike.
 

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I have heard some loud collisions to the bottom of my BDCW plate both from rocks, branches being thrown up from the front wheel and stationary objects I crossed over.
I feel like the stock item might have worked, but I like the insurance of the beefier plate.
This from a guy who never added a plate to his dirt bikes over the years.
 

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my friend had the problem that he dropped the bike at 5 m/ph. A small rock punctured the engine cover and destroyed all inside (rotor and stator). I have mounted the BUMOT Skidplate, and this is much bigger and more solid as the original. It is 5 mm alluminium and saved me a couple of times already. Have it comibined with the Honda crashbar. Works fine sofar. This dent is from rock thrown up by the frotn wheel.... not by crashing into stone steps or so..
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
my friend had the problem that he dropped the bike at 5 m/ph. A small rock punctured the engine cover and destroyed all inside (rotor and stator). I have mounted the BUMOT Skidplate, and this is much bigger and more solid as the original. It is 5 mm alluminium and saved me a couple of times already. Have it comibined with the Honda crashbar. Works fine sofar. This dent is from rock thrown up by the frotn wheel.... not by crashing into stone steps or so..
Never heard of Bumot. I'll check that out.

NC
 

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Have the Bumot myself & it took a nice slide down the road that saved my engine big time. Just a little grazed & touched up with black spray.
 

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Imo the standard skid plate is just a light stone guard to protect the engine oil filter from gravel kicked up from the front wheel, I replaced it with an Altrider plate which is pretty beefy but still doesnt give the rock protection I would like around the engine side cases & having the cases stick out even further on the clutch side with the DCT Im going to replace it with a B&B Dakar full coverage plate, with this plate lower crash bars are made obsolete
 

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