Honda Africa Twin Forum banner

1 - 20 of 65 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
325 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
Does anyone else suffer from this:
2018 ATAS manual.
When riding slowly through towns normally in third gear the bike lurches forwards and backwards. Its as though the bike cant decide how much fuel to inject. The throttle is held steady at just off idle. Power is set to 1 out of 3 (most power) and engine braking is set to 2 out of 3.


The fuelling is fine once the throttle is opened up, its just that riding slowly seems jerky. So I would be keen to hear how others find their 2018 bikes, I wonder if a re map will fix it
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,131 Posts
Does anyone else suffer from this:
2018 ATAS manual.
When riding slowly through towns normally in third gear the bike lurches forwards and backwards. Its as though the bike cant decide how much fuel to inject. The throttle is held steady at just off idle. Power is set to 1 out of 3 (most power) and engine braking is set to 2 out of 3.


The fuelling is fine once the throttle is opened up, its just that riding slowly seems jerky. So I would be keen to hear how others find their 2018 bikes, I wonder if a re map will fix it
From my limited riding of the 2018 bike Kev, I thought it was worse than my 2017. My bike isn't too bad but just out of interest and because I saved £5700 by not trading it in for a 2018 bike :grin2: I bought a RapidBike Easy. At first I thought it was helping but then concluded that I really couldn't tell much difference. I'm booked in for a remap at Hilltop next week.
The tickover on my bike is really poor - lumpy and irregular. The RapidBike Easy didn't change this but did seem to help a bit higher up the rev range. Can a big parallel twin be made to idle smoothly? I'm hoping the remap will make it so.
Mike
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
325 Posts
Discussion Starter #3
I will be interested to hear how that re map goes. My ATAS tickover settles down when warm but after setting off cold it gives a huge surge 100 yards down the road.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
278 Posts
I get this too, Kev. Not too jerky in 3rd, but she sometimes doesn't like to idle along real steady does she? In 1st, going real slow is where I get it most; and a bit in 2nd too. She's like a stallion chomping at the bit. I'm learning to tame her some.

2018 ATAS.

Gary
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
325 Posts
Discussion Starter #5
Yes that's a good description of how it feels, a horse straining to go. I find that the lurching is less if I ride in a lower gear and rev it more, say second gear at 25mph rather than 3rd gear.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
12 Posts
hi big kev i have the same problem with my africa twin adven sport 2018 model manual. its just a pill to ride in traffic most of the time you have to pull the clutch in to stop it jumping around at slow speed. could this be the fly by wire throttle. as the 16 model is ok at slow speed. mr honda says its the way it rides. (bull ****) my bikes only done 700 miles
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
12 Posts
re big kevs poor running at slow speed

hi kev i have the same problem with my ATAS it wont ride smooth in traffic at slow speed it just jumps around and most the time al have to pull the clutch in. my bikes only done 700 miles it a pain. i had a pan euro before this and that was so smooth a know there chalk and cheese but this cant be right for a honda. i live in gateshead so might see you about
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,131 Posts
I will be interested to hear how that re map goes. My ATAS tickover settles down when warm but after setting off cold it gives a huge surge 100 yards down the road.
wow - I've never had that. My tickover stays high for about a minute when the engine is cold but then drops back to the correct revs - but that tickover is an irregular chugging sort of thing, and that's exactly what the drive feels like when I'm going slowly. However when I look at the rev counter when doing 30 through a town and getting the lumpy drive, the rpm alwys seems nearer 2000rpm rather than 1200, and if I hold the revs at 2000 while the bike is on the stand, the engine is smooth - so I can't square that one.
Mike
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
171 Posts
The Euro 4 (or is it 6) emissions screw up engines big time, it bet the engineers hate it. I’m sure they could design a brilliant smooth running engine, but it get spoilt by the constraints of the latest emission control.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
125 Posts
Does anyone else suffer from this:
2018 ATAS manual.
When riding slowly through towns normally in third gear the bike lurches forwards and backwards. Its as though the bike cant decide how much fuel to inject. The throttle is held steady at just off idle. Power is set to 1 out of 3 (most power) and engine braking is set to 2 out of 3.


The fuelling is fine once the throttle is opened up, its just that riding slowly seems jerky. So I would be keen to hear how others find their 2018 bikes, I wonder if a re map will fix it
Yes this is true I think we are all experiencing this jerkiness to some degree although mine feels quite nice now adding a few miles to it and my Idle is spot on smooth,I have noticed waves of power though whilst on hard throttle as if ecu Is making to lean a fuel mixture , Rugged roads sell a booster plug that tricks the ecu by placing another air sensor in the fairing I've seen some positive threads on it and maybe a cheaper fix than the remap.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
53 Posts
The Euro 4 (or is it 6) emissions screw up engines big time, it bet the engineers hate it. I’m sure they could design a brilliant smooth running engine, but it get spoilt by the constraints of the latest emission control.
BMW can do smooth throttle big twins with Euro 4.

My AT 2017 at anything less than 2500 rpm is surging quite a bit, especially bad when cold. Being DCT I have no clutch to smooth it out and getting out of the first 100 yards down the road could be a bit of "Pogo stick" ride. And yes, it has rough idle. Also the cold start is sometimes hesitant a bit. I guess that is a characteristic of the bike. Not something to die for, just ride the thing :smile2:
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
171 Posts
Been riding most of today, experimenting with the rider modes and found Gravel mode seem to cause less jerkiness at the lower revs, i.e when riding on a set throttle through the 30 and 40 speed limits. That’s what it felt like, whether I was just imagining it, not sure. :nerd:
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3 Posts
ATAS water in the display!!

Just went over night camping. It did not rain but in the morning dew I have water behind the glass in my display! It dried out once the sun hit it. However a water "streak" remains. Going to call the dealer next business day! Not sure what they can do regarding this issue and the warranty.. any thoughts?
 

Attachments

·
Registered
Joined
·
125 Posts
Just went over night camping. It did not rain but in the morning dew I have water behind the glass in my display! It dried out once the sun hit it. However a water "streak" remains. Going to call the dealer next business day! Not sure what they can do regarding this issue and the warranty.. any thoughts?
Its not supposed to let water In ,so not fit for purpose....
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
133 Posts
Since having a Hilltop remap my 2016 accelerates smoothly with reasonable throttle openings in every gear bar 6th, no surging in steady traffic and my idle is totally steady cold or hot.
Not sorry I spent my hard earned with Hilltop. no titting about with add ons that may or may not work on your bike, just solid evidence on the graph you're given after the job's done and a nice clean ride between open and closed loop part throttle openings.


Pete.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
12 Posts
Does anyone else suffer from this:
2018 ATAS manual.
When riding slowly through towns normally in third gear the bike lurches forwards and backwards. Its as though the bike cant decide how much fuel to inject. The throttle is held steady at just off idle. Power is set to 1 out of 3 (most power) and engine braking is set to 2 out of 3.


The fuelling is fine once the throttle is opened up, its just that riding slowly seems jerky. So I would be keen to hear how others find their 2018 bikes, I wonder if a re map will fix it
hi kev i got a 2018 ATAS and its got the same fault. most the time in traffic at around 20 to 25 mph i have to pull the clutch in to stop it from jumping around. its a **** to ride slow. on my first service MR honda was no help i got thats just the way they are (fob off) a would like to see if the remap will fix this fault. thanks keith
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
278 Posts
Kev,

I took my bike out just now for another test run and I *did* find the herky-jerky stuff in 3rd too while putzing along–at anywhere from 25 to 35 mph. In fact, it’s as bad as 1st and 2nd – while idling along or with gentle throttle manipulation. (Bear in mind: the manual actually *recommends* shifting to 3rd at 19 mph and to 4th at 25 mph! So, the bike should easily roll along at these speeds in 3rd).

I can't help but wonder if it might have something to do with the generous chain slack spec on the bike. We’re doing most of our riding on smooth roads but running with the sort of slack you find on an off-road bike. The manual calls for between 45 and 55mm slack for the ATAS models (CRF1000A II/DII) with a warning not to ride at +60mm. And guess what? I just checked mine and found the slack at 61mm!

When I first got the bike, I checked the slack but didn’t give it a proper measure, just a quick up and down and thought, “That’s a lot of slack!” But looking at the spec on the chain cover and reading “2 inches” there, I thought it looked close. My mistake. I'm guessing my chain slack has been a bit too loose from day one. It may have settled some, that’s likely, but 61+mm—that’s a lot of slack.

I'm taking my bike in for first service this week, otherwise I’d go ahead and tighten the chain now, myself. But I want them to see how loose it is and I’ll ask them to tighten it closer to the lower end of the spec. It will be interesting to see if that might mitigate some of the traveling hesitancy at idle and lower RPMs. As long as I'm within the Honda specs, it can’t hurt, and in fact, for the exclusively easy road riding I'm doing now (until I get my lower crash bars and panniers on (oh, the wait for the vendors to catch up with the 2018 ATAS!)) having the chain on the tighter end of the spectrum makes sense, I think.

I have a niggling feeling this loose chain may have been exacerbating all the little finesse issues I’ve been complaining about: the difficultly in smooth, slow shifting; the herky-jerky stuff at low throttle; maybe even the sensitive throttling. And I wonder if even within spec, but at the looser end, it could do the same. (Have you checked your chain slack)?

In fact, I’m not going to ride the bike until I take it in for service this week and I’m going to make a bit of an issue about the exceedingly loose chain slack. I can understand the chain loosening up during break-in, but so much it exceeds the safety spec within 500 miles?

I’ll keep you posted. Gary
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
325 Posts
Discussion Starter #19
My chain bedded in a lot from new. After 50 miles I was adjusting it. I too thought the chain slack spec was generous. I try to run between 45 and 50mm. I have 2000 miles on now and the chain slack is constant over 100s of miles so its bedded in. With the greater suspension travel on the ATAS you will get more variation in the distance between sprockets as the suspension moves.

One interesting factor is how much pre load you have on the rear shock. If you are a heavy rider and you have factory setting on pre load you will ride with a lot of shock compression and therefore a tighter chain. On the other hand if the pre load was wound up and you were a light rider the shock would be extended and you would have a slacker chain. I have set my sag for 33% which is 29 clicks in riding with lightly loaded panniers. A good check is to sit on the bike and get someone to measure chain slack. That will tell you what it actually is when riding on flat tarmac.

Anyway as you say a slack chain wont help with a smooth ride. You will feel it when rolling on and off the throttle and when gear changing, but at steady throttle in my opinion there has to be something from the fuelling to initiate that lurching.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
278 Posts
Yeah, before I get carried away, I should take the time to calculate my sag properly; haven't done that yet. I did confirm its actual setting by turning down to position 0 and clicking up to the standard position of 7 clicks up from there. And because I weigh 195 lbs., I've gone up another 4 clicks (two full rotations) just for the time-being. So, I should be somewhere around position 12. I'll probably end up going up more after doing the actual calculations, but for now, it's just me on the bike—no panniers or bars etc. And I don't mind a soft ride on the road, so it feels OK for now.
But I just learned my dealer's service dept. can't take me in for another 2 weeks so I will be tightening the chain slack myself tomorrow, so I can ride the thing in the meantime. (It's nice that the manual actually allows for chain adjustment with the bike on the side stand and in neutral, seeing as I don't have a center stand on the bike (or shop stand)).
And I was going to change the oils myself but my cousin, a motorcycle tech., advises me to let the shop do it the first time round so they can inspect everything else and make sure it's all as it should be. Makes sense, I guess.
I've got to get that shifter moved up an inch too.
Thanks for the advice. It's nice chatting with others who have the same bike.
Best, Gary
 
1 - 20 of 65 Posts
Top