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Agreed , it was a cheap quick fix , (Consumption was not a huge deal for me , lots of fuel stations where i ride ,hehehe) and all that was available at that time , Please keep us in the loop .
 

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Hi Rory, yeah I thought so, I think the 02 is going to be a winner, me being a electronics engineer understanding the idea behind it.
I was never a fan for air temp manipulation since it won't be as fuel efficient & accurate as adding a tad of extra voltage on top of an existing wave generated by the 02 sensor.


In short, the ECU also controls the injectors & timing to keep the mixture at it's pre set map levels determined by the 02 sensor.


The fuelling is to a large extent reliant on what it gets from the 02 sensor once it goes closed loop.


My Rapid bike Easy is being delivered today, so I shall give feedback on my findings of this unit once installed..
Hi africano,

looking forward to hear of your experience with Rapid Bike Easy.
Hope it solves the hip-cup issue. I'm dealing with that too.

Regards,
Antonio
 

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I'm in the same situation. On a few random occasions mine has backfired thru the airbox. Mostly seems to happen on startup when the bike isn't fully warm and I'm giving a quick twist on the throttle.

On another few occasion after it warms up. When taking off normally, like pulling away from a stop sign, the bike just dies as soon as I start twisting the throttle.

DCT w/2400 miles. Don't do any throttle blipping, and some think the DCT is related to the dying off the line. I don't think its the DCT because its dies instantly when it happens.

I do have some DCT issues too. Sometimes when just barely accelerating it tries but won't shift out of first gear. It makes a clicking sound likes its gonna shift but doesn't.

These all happen at random. My bike is running great after hitting 2k miles, better than new imo. I have never done any reset or disconnected the battery
 

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Hello everyone,

My first post here......

I am in the final stages of testing a solution to this issue (and other running problems)

I have a 2017 tri color that i have installed a modified fuel pressure regulator.

Some back ground, I owned Turbo City (retired 2 years ago) and have designed and built modified FPRs for ST1300, VFR800, Goldwings, CBR1000. (search Turbo City FPR)

I have also done extensive GM automotive computer modifications and programming.

All of these Honda EFI computer systems run lean and that is what causes most all of these issues. By raising the fuel pressure slightly, most issues disappear without creating problems with the computer.

I have identified a readily available replacement FPR regulator that when modified works great in the AT, and its less than $25.00. Easily installed by just removing the fuel tank (no other plastics need remove). No modifications to the original fuel system (easily returned to stock)

Can be used to improve fueling with aftermarket air filters and exhaust.

When testing is complete, I will provide part numbers of the regulator and complete instructions on how to modify (very easy).

So far I am very impressed and encouraged at the results. Not here to sell anything- will provide the info free ( have sold thousands on the FPRs in the past)

Let me know if this is something everyone would be interested in and i will start a new thread......


Also interested in several AT owners in So Cal that would like to test this on there bike.

Stay tuned Thanks Tom
 

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Hello everyone,

My first post here......

I am in the final stages of testing a solution to this issue (and other running problems)

I have a 2017 tri color that i have installed a modified fuel pressure regulator.

Some back ground, I owned Turbo City (retired 2 years ago) and have designed and built modified FPRs for ST1300, VFR800, Goldwings, CBR1000. (search Turbo City FPR)

I have also done extensive GM automotive computer modifications and programming.

All of these Honda EFI computer systems run lean and that is what causes most all of these issues. By raising the fuel pressure slightly, most issues disappear without creating problems with the computer.

I have identified a readily available replacement FPR regulator that when modified works great in the AT, and its less than $25.00. Easily installed by just removing the fuel tank (no other plastics need remove). No modifications to the original fuel system (easily returned to stock)

Can be used to improve fueling with aftermarket air filters and exhaust.

When testing is complete, I will provide part numbers of the regulator and complete instructions on how to modify (very easy).

So far I am very impressed and encouraged at the results. Not here to sell anything- will provide the info free ( have sold thousands on the FPRs in the past)

Let me know if this is something everyone would be interested in and i will start a new thread......


Also interested in several AT owners in So Cal that would like to test this on there bike.

Stay tuned Thanks Tom

Hi Tom


That is an excellent idea to increase performance, but would that not make the ECU just fire shorter pulses on the injectors when it goes closed loop?


After all the 02 sensor is what determines fuel Ratio regardless of how enthusiastic the pressure on the injectors are. Also would the fuel rails, rubber seals & injectors themselves cope with the pressure in the long run..?


I know the system is over spec to for safety reasons to handle more than average fuel pressure, but would that not be running it closer to the failure margin continuously?


I am just asking these questions because I have done some work on my VFR1200 & in removing the fuel rails, I noticed how dangerous it would be if any seal would pop or pipe would leak even under the standard pressure..


The fuel would spray all over the motor & easily get in everywhere eventually causing a fire.. :surprise:


The pressure is already round 3.5bar when running..


I have a OEM workshop manual for the AT, I shall check what pressures they specify as normal for this bike..


Not shooting down the idea, just have some questions..:wink2:
 

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Hi, the AT computer is just not that complex. It will accept a small raise in fuel pressure without any issues. As long as you do not drive the system outside the design perameters, you will see improvements. Go too far, then you have the issues( check engine lights, poor running) The factory set pressure is 50 psi, I am testing at 55 psi and think that 54, 55, 56 psi would be a good range of modification depending on additions to the bike (air filter, exhaust)- mine is completely stock.

I currently have 7K miles on my AT with the last 1K with the modified FPR.

Thanks for the questions. Tom
 

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Fyi, I have the cold start misfire on my 2018 ATAS manual trans. It started happening around 400 miles. Dealer dismissed it as a normal characteristic and said another AT in his inventory does it. Once the bike warms up it goes away. It has fotten progressively worse and I will have to take it back to the dealership again.
 

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My bike displays these same issues: backfiring through airbox occasionally, hiccups at cold start. Occasionally it will stall at idle and hesitate to start, it has also stalled on me blipping the throttle before entering fast traffic. That is horrifying. The bike has 17k on it and has done it since brand new. I want to get a wings exhaust for this bike, but I am worried I will simply exacerbate the issue. Any more info on the rapidbike easy?
 

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WTF? Just restart it and keep moving.
You read my mind. This has happened to me a few times in the now 13 months and 14k miles of ownership. And, it also happened several times on my last bike (2014 v-strom 1000). Some people on the vstrom forum would freak out over it there too. Takes a fraction of a second to hit that starter button. Happens to many modern bikes because of the excessive lean condition. I'd rather just deal with it as is than throw money at it and probably suffer a little gas mileage, too. Personally, I'm more irritated by the false neutrals.
 

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That starter button doesn't do you any good if the bike stalls as your trying to break out into traffic during rush hour. When you pull out in front of someone with the expectation that the bike will go, and instead coughs and stalls. That's a safety issue to me. :(
 

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Make sure you are using regular fuel. My dealer reported that the 2 AT they saw that had this issue were running on premium fuel, for some reason the bike didn't like it. It was resolved when they went back to Regular fuel. Possibly won't solve the problem for everyone, but a cheap fix to try if you are experiencing it...
 

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I can certainly attest to higher octane fuel making the AT unhappy! Every now and then I would use Shell 'V-Power' as it's stated it has some magical abilities to clean the engine and was also a 93 octane fuel. This stuff always made the AT sputter and seemed to keep up for a tank or two afterward. FWIW, I recently traveled to Canada and didn't have a single hiccup in 2,500 miles. I returned this past week and filled up in the states and the bike had a terrible coughing spout! I'm about to order the power commander....
 

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I know it´s a old topic, but just bought a 2019 manual and it still has the described problem.
It never stalled, but made a loud backfire from under the tank.

I am guessing it´s not a software problem... They woulnd´t keep making the same mistakes since 2016, would they?

My 1000km service is due to the end of the month, I will mention it to the dealer.
 

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Hello! I also have such a problem, it started from 1200 k, it’s already 7000 k and the problem does not go away !!! when starting, it hiccups, measures for a while and knock or knock or misfire, what is it ?? did you solve the problem and how?
 

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Same issue before selling my bike and cold start problems every mornings since day one, bike cutting like if TC was triggered, I had a Rapidbike easy installed for about a year with aftermarket exhaust, so definitely not a solution, there is something wrong somewhere and apparently it's not all about lean mixture.


So a rapidbike or booster plug, won't likely solve these problems, do not install them waste of money !
 

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Anyone have any updates on this? Sorry to res the thread but I just took ownership of a brand new 2017 and my bike coughs and backfires at least once during every ride.

I was riding with my wife on the back and it flat-out stalled on me while rolling. Light throttle, gentle roll-on throttle input and just coughed and stalled. Had we been on an on-ramp or pulling into traffic, things could have gone worse.
 
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