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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
2019, DCT, standard AT, 26000 miles.

The Engine Stop fuse blew when the bike was hot.

It ran fine for about 20 miles then shut off going down the road. First thing I checked was fuses. It went through another one while the bike was still hot. After it cooled down a bit(15 minutes maybe), with a new fuse, it fired and ran fine for a couple miles then died. After a tow truck ride home(several hours), I put in another new fuse and it fired and ran perfectly.

I’m going to have a look at the wire harness tomorrow as best I can. Looks to me like the circuits on that fuse are the engine shut off switch and the fuel pump relay. That leads me to be suspect of the shut off switch, the fuel pump relay, and (gulp) the fuel pump. I don’t want to just throw parts at it and hope I get it fixed. A new fuel pump runs upward of $500, left switch gear around $200. Relay will be swapped out with the high beam relay to test that. The only non stock wiring is to the accessory plug and driving lights, both of those go to the “option” fuse circuit. I’ll check grounds also( I’ve read of others with issues).

1st question is, has anyone heard of such a problem?

2nd question is, do you have any advice for troubleshooting other than eyes, fingers and a multimeter?

Oh, my dealer is backed up for over a month to get an appointment to look at it! Yeah, they can go to............

Guidance is always appreciated.

Side note; the new HD Pan American didn’t look so ugly as I saw one drive by, as I sat there with my broken Honda. Didn’t sound at all like a Harley.
 

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Hey mate. Sorry for your troubles, several hours, yeah I’d be pissed. Can’t offer much help but check where the cables enter the ignition barrel. On the left. On my 19 I’m suss about the amount of pivoting happening there. Just a thought
 
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I had some issues with my twin the other day. Come to find out the screw on the ground terminal began backing off without my knowledge. This screw was on the back side of the battery buried in the ever so convienent battery box not the ground strap that goes to the frame. I bought some green lock tight and gave it a few turns now she is purring again.
 

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Only ‘popping “ when hot (?) something with the cooling fans? That would be the only major electrical draw I could think of off hand that would be different between the hot and cool state..
pre 18 models were known for issues with the switches (usually water getting into them), I don’t recall any of them popping fuses, it just usually shorted out the switch and essentially just shut the bike off..
 

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Spiders in the switch housings. Things get hot, they look for relief and, all sweaty as they are, create a short to ground as they scuttle across some contacts. :D

When using a multimeter, don't just check for voltage and resistance, do voltage drop tests. You'll find the component that's suckin' all the juice. (Easier for you to Google than for me to currently explain...it's bed time).
Alternatively, you can try using a 12v test light hooked to the fuse contacts, fuse removed. Then start disconnecting things on that circuit one at a time and reconnecting them before moving on. When the light gets brighter, you've found the culprit. Not an exact science and a LED light won't do it. You could fashion your own test light with a spare turn signal bulb, etc.
 

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Sounds like a good start @phydough. If the fuel pump relay gets stuck "on", then the pump will run excessively, possibly heating and drawing too much current and blowing the fuse.

Keep us up to date. The challenge is interesting.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Today’s update.
Searched wire loom for the first foot or so, as far as I could get with the tank still on... nothing abnormal.

Couldn’t get ohmmeter to show any open or short circuits while wiggling wire loom.
Started it up cold, after swapping out relays with the high beam relay, let it sit and run for a good long time. Took it for a slow(walking pace, first gear) ride on my property, made it 700 feet, then it died. Didn’t hit any bumps, nice and smooth. It was good and hot, fans running quite a lot. Pushed it back to the shed and found fuse blown again.

I ruled out a bad relay with this experiment.

I took apart the right switch gear and did not find any bad wires, so it’s probably okay. I can’t see any relation to heat affecting it.

I checked what grounding points I could find, none loose.

••• I think I neglected to say that the fuel level is at one white bar above the red bar.

I had a car that acted similar (no blown fuses) when the gas was less than 1/4, it’d stop running, bad fuel pump.

So... at this point, I’m leaning toward a bad fuel pump. My theory is; with the gas level so low, the pump overheats and draws too much amperage and blows out the fuse. With so little gas in the tank, the heat soak from the engine allows the gas to warm up...and maybe the pump is not fully immersed either. I was going to fill the tank and letting it get hot again, but pulled the tank off instead.

Tomorrow, more wire inspecting now that I can get to a little more. Maybe some shopping for fuel pumps, too.

Question; where are the grounding points on the frame and engine? I only found the multi one on the forward left side frame and the engine/battery behind the cylinders.

What do you think? Am I on the right track? My gut and a couple other peoples opinions lead toward the pump. Heat is the big clue. If it were wiring, as much as I jump it and ride in rough stuff, that’s when I’d have problems like that.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Filled the tank this morning and let it run. Didn’t even get hot before blowing the fuse... Eight minutes (8) of idling.

Going to shop for a pump today. I need to get a new siphon hose, too. My old hose and bulb were invaded by bugs that crawled inside and died (some were still gooey, maybe pupa?).
 

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Filled the tank this morning and let it run. Didn’t even get hot before blowing the fuse... Eight minutes (8) of idling.

Going to shop for a pump today. I need to get a new siphon hose, too.
Hopefully you will find some good luck. Is it too difficult to monitor (ammeter) the inline current (with the fuse, or pump) before it trips out? Might learn something about the rate of current rise and even turn off the bike before the fuse goes.

My old hose and bulb were invaded by bugs that crawled inside and died (some were still gooey, maybe pupa?).
63956
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
I hooked up an ammeter, with a cell phone camera watching it, to the fuel pump wire. When I first turned the key on it drew 2.80 amps. When started it drew 2.88 amps. 5 minutes later it was drawing 2.96 when the fuse blew. No spike, just a drop to .4 on its way to 0.

I hope I’m not looking at a PCM problem. I figured I’d see a rise or spike in amperage if it were the pump. Then, why would it blow that fuse?

I just remembered, there are diagnostic codes thrown if it detects problems. I’ll look up the paper clip trick and see if it threw any codes. I forgot, this isn’t a ‘67 Triumph Mountain Cub.

I might go ahead and cut into more wires in the circuit to watch the current
 

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I had some issues with my twin the other day. Come to find out the screw on the ground terminal began backing off without my knowledge. This screw was on the back side of the battery buried in the ever so convienent battery box not the ground strap that goes to the frame. I bought some green lock tight and gave it a few turns now she is purring again.
Yes indeed, bad or intermittent grounding can cause all manner of weird electrical gremlins to show themselves. Good work tracking it down.
 
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Filled the tank this morning and let it run. Didn’t even get hot before blowing the fuse... Eight minutes (8) of idling.

Going to shop for a pump today. I need to get a new siphon hose, too. My old hose and bulb were invaded by bugs that crawled inside and died (some were still gooey, maybe pupa?).
Product Result
before you gonna buy an expensive OEM unit , look here .
 
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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Thank you, Ghostrider! I never even considered aftermarket. That price tag makes it much easier to deal with.

Still going to do my due diligence before buying one and try to find any other cause.
 

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What about the Ignition Coils???
I think perhaps one of them overheats and drawn to much amperes?
I do not have wiring Diagram at hand, to see if they are powered for that circuit.
But it is worth to check them as well.
 

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2019, DCT, standard AT, 26000 miles.

The Engine Stop fuse blew when the bike was hot.

It ran fine for about 20 miles then shut off going down the road. First thing I checked was fuses. It went through another one while the bike was still hot. After it cooled down a bit(15 minutes maybe), with a new fuse, it fired and ran fine for a couple miles then died. After a tow truck ride home(several hours), I put in another new fuse and it fired and ran perfectly.

I’m going to have a look at the wire harness tomorrow as best I can. Looks to me like the circuits on that fuse are the engine shut off switch and the fuel pump relay. That leads me to be suspect of the shut off switch, the fuel pump relay, and (gulp) the fuel pump. I don’t want to just throw parts at it and hope I get it fixed. A new fuel pump runs upward of $500, left switch gear around $200. Relay will be swapped out with the high beam relay to test that. The only non stock wiring is to the accessory plug and driving lights, both of those go to the “option” fuse circuit. I’ll check grounds also( I’ve read of others with issues).

1st question is, has anyone heard of such a problem?

2nd question is, do you have any advice for troubleshooting other than eyes, fingers and a multimeter?

Oh, my dealer is backed up for over a month to get an appointment to look at it! Yeah, they can go to............

Guidance is always appreciated.

Side note; the new HD Pan American didn’t look so ugly as I saw one drive by, as I sat there with my broken Honda. Didn’t sound at all like a Harley.
Don't let the Pan Am fool you, i've ridden one. It's got 150 HP on tap, but it's also 100 pounds heavier and 25% more expensive, with less clearance. The Honda is a far superior machine. Chin up, and just work through the fix.
 

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I would disconnect all multi-pin plug connectors and make sure all pins are in place. A poor connection in any plug connector can cause high resistance and failed fuses. Also look for any area where the wiring harness may have been pinched when the bike was assembled as a direct short to ground can also cause a blown fuse. Open up your switches on the handlebars as well - Is there water present inside? Just take your time and methodically go over the bike from from to back, under the seat, under the side covers etc. Look for any wiring that is out of place or any pinched wires. If you have had any accessories that have been wired in, disconnect these and see if the problem stops.
 
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