[Washryc]

Hi everyone,

Need your eyes in this silly matter which is confusing the **** out of me, even more confusing after talking to the Touratech workshop guys....

Attached is a photo of the cable spaghetti I got in the TT Fog lights package and additional items I purchased from Honda.

Consist of the following:
1 x HONDA OEM Fog light switch
1 x HONDA OEM 4 pin Splitter cable
1 x TOURATECH cable = fuse - relay - LED controller plug - Battery Pos/Neg - etc

I want to use the Honda Splitter to power the TT Fog lights, and replace the TT flick switch to the Honda OEM Switch.

I know that the front fairing has a power source, I sure already installed the 12v socket my self, and I also know that within the power source, the "Blue/Black" line is for the Fog lights.

But what I don't know is... How this mess is actually connected?

How to I make this work so it's not a massive mess?

I'm told by the TT workshop that the Battery Pos/Neg MUST be connected to the battery(?), as the relay must stay for the Fogs to work. This confused me, as I am trying to power it from the power source from the plug under front fairing.

Also, the flick switch on the TT cable, there is an extra line coming out from it, and it says "connect to POS of headlights"
This also got me well lost.

Any help would really be appreciated.
Maybe a drawing if anyone has the time?
I've done some simple wiring, but not have had to replace switches and work out power units etc.

Thanks!
Rich.

 

[DCTFAN]

Try this.
Take the OEM Honda connectors out of the picture and figure out the TT supplied wiring.
It's confusing, because with the OEM plugs, you are trying to use two relays and switches.

The TT solution (wiring) is for a bike without the OP connector and is powered by
the headlight wire, into which they expect you to splice into.
Here, once ignition is on, the headlight wire will power the TT relay, and provide current for the fog lights.

Once you understand the wiring kit TT has sent you, you can replace the tacky toggle S/W with the OEM Honda S/W by simply matching wires.

Final decision is whether you want to use TT relay or the original OEM accessory plug (OP) behind the dash. The latter requires you to cut out the TT relay and wire the
terminal in the correct terminal of the OP.
Here, you can choose how the fog lights will come on/off.
Some like to have the fogs come on with HI-beam.
Some like to have the fogs on all the time etc.

 

[Washryc]

Try this.
Take the OEM Honda connectors out of the picture and figure out the TT supplied wiring.
It's confusing, because with the OEM plugs, you are trying to use two relays and switches.

The TT solution (wiring) is for a bike without the OP connector and is powered by
the headlight wire, into which they expect you to splice into.
Here, once ignition is on, the headlight wire will power the TT relay, and provide current for the fog lights.

Once you understand the wiring kit TT has sent you, you can replace the tacky toggle S/W with the OEM Honda S/W by simply matching wires.

Final decision is whether you want to use TT relay or the original OEM accessory plug (OP) behind the dash. The latter requires you to cut out the TT relay and wire the
terminal in the correct terminal of the OP.
Here, you can choose how the fog lights will come on/off.
Some like to have the fogs come on with HI-beam.
Some like to have the fogs on all the time etc.

Thanks for the reply.

But I was under the impression that I would need the relay to power the fog lights(?)

What I basically want to do is : turn the fog light on and off with the Honda OEM switch, by replacing the TT toggle switch. I don't need it to be off the headlights or Highbeam.

Also, this is the first time I've read I'll need to cut out the relay from the harness...

The more I read, the more confused I get tbh.

Is the following installation correct?

1) Cut off TT toggle switch and replace it with the HONDA OEM switch.
2) Connecting power using the 4pin connectors.
Connect the Harness RED (positive) to 4pin RED/YELLOW.
Connect the Harness BROWN (negative) to 4pin GREEN
Connect a wire from HONDA OEM switch 12V to 4pin BLUE/BLACK (this is so the FOG indicator will display on the dash)

I could be completely wrong here tho...
Still searching for the ONE answer.

 

[Bartho]

Look at this blog from a forum member. You can download the fog light installation guide and you have a list from all parts needed.
Ho yes fog lights are: feux auxiliaires.


http://africatwin1000.blogspot.be/2016/03/honda-accessoires-guides-dinstallation.html?m=1

 

[DCTFAN]

Nice resource

Look at this blog from a forum member. You can download the fog light installation guide and you have a list from all parts needed.
Ho yes fog lights are: feux auxiliaires.


http://africatwin1000.blogspot.be/2016/03/honda-accessoires-guides-dinstallation.html?m=1

bien! tres bien!
better resource than Honda

Washryc, you've been reading about the mysterious third OP connector
that HUB*** was trying to explain? All he found was the remnants of the fog kit- someone left behind the fog lamp sub-harness and he assumed it was OEM.
Guess he bought his AT used. Mystery solved.

 

[stormy1954]

Excellent. Thanks for link, Bartho.

 

[Washryc]

Look at this blog from a forum member. You can download the fog light installation guide and you have a list from all parts needed.
Ho yes fog lights are: feux auxiliaires.


http://africatwin1000.blogspot.be/2016/03/honda-accessoires-guides-dinstallation.html?m=1

Thanks for the info. I have the Honda off already and have gone thru it before.
Unfortunately my set up is not plug and play like the Honda one.
Some wires to be wires to different places etc.

 

[RicaIii]

Hi....i am a new user here. As per my knowledge the TT solution is for a bike without the OP connector and is powered by the headlight wire, into which they expect you to splice into.Here, once ignition is on, the headlight wire will power the TT relay, and provide current for the fog lights.

 

[superfunkomatic]

Interesting that on my bike that the purple wire in the accessory plug (by the speedometer/dash connection) is the fog return and the blue/black is the high beam. Is that a North American thing? I tried the blue/black wire when testing and blew a fuse on my fog lights.

The Denali lights come with a pre-made harness complete with relay and trigger wire if you don't want to make your own harness or you can cut their harness apart and make your own (like I did) - works great. You can attach it to the OEM fog light switch and have it show up on the dash as well. Very slick!

 

[pjm]

Could you post up a diagram or instructions of how you connected the OEM switch in to your harness to bring up the dash light. I have a stand alone relay harness that Comes with an ugly switch that I would like to replace. I plan to take the main power from my PC8 and assume I will pick up a switched live for the switch from up near the switch. I would like to have the lights on as driving lights all the time but with the option to switch off if I choose.

 

[ablock]

The dash light circuit is on the blue/black wire of the white 4-pin "option connector" that is buried in the dash. You will want to set up your OEM fog light switch so that the switched side (which feeds the signal line to the relay) is also connected to that blue/black wire. I wired mine that way and it works perfectly.

 

[David Scutt]

So just so I got this straight. I have the OEM switch, but I will need the OEM splitter, of which one side goes to the power behind the headlight(been there, done that with the 12V socket). The other side connects to the switch and the one left over is the power to my lights, right?.....sorry bit electro retarded....

 

[charris543]

HELP...
Just installed a set of the TouraTech fog lights for the AT, however, I cannot get them to work, at all... Followed the wiring instructions (pretty simple with their custom harness), but nothing. Even tried bypassing the switch and applying 12v to the relay input wire. I have confirmed 12v constant power, input to the main fuse, a solid ground, and supplied power to the switch (as stated earlier, even bypassed the switch). Thoughts...

 

[charris543]

Well, after looking at it again this morning, it appears my issue was with one of my jumper wires I was using for testing. I ohm tested the two jumper wires I was using, and one of them was open. Looks fine from the outside, SMH.... Anyway, now the task of completing the install....