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@Cuchulainn since you've owned 16,17 and 19 model years, do you know if the 16,17 model AGM batteries are the same size as the 18 and up lithium batteries?

To the op, good luck in getting a new battery without it testing bad in the warranty period. I know my local dealer would tell me to pound sand if I had what I thought was a battery issue without them verifying it. And if the included battery started the bike, they'd tell me if I wanted a new battery, I could buy a new battery.

It's a bit understandable, they're not selling a '17 model for '20 pricing, or anywhere close to '17 pricing for that matter. But if it's a warranty issue, then so be it.
 

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@Cuchulainn since you've owned 16,17 and 19 model years, do you know if the 16,17 model AGM batteries are the same size as the 18 and up lithium batteries?

To the op, good luck in getting a new battery without it testing bad in the warranty period. I know my local dealer would tell me to pound sand if I had what I thought was a battery issue without them verifying it. And if the included battery started the bike, they'd tell me if I wanted a new battery, I could buy a new battery.

It's a bit understandable, they're not selling a '17 model for '20 pricing, or anywhere close to '17 pricing for that matter. But if it's a warranty issue, then so be it.
To be precise, the '17 belongs to my wife. The Lithium battery in the '19 is definitely smaller than the AGM of the 16/17 models.

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Discussion Starter #23
I tested my battery with a load tester. It passed. I've got it on the bench hooked up to an AGM charger.

As far as I could tell, the connections were tight and everything was in order.

I really don't like the hokey plastic flap to the battery box. What the **** is going on with that garbage?

I think this photo confirms my battery was made in 2017, no?
 

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I believe that you should have another label on the battery that looks like the attached photo.

The info in the white box ending in W should be year/month/day/plant code.

In this case 2018, July, 13 and plant code W.

If yours doesn't have that then the stamped info may be a different representation.


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If that stamped date is the code though, then it would appear it was made April 17 2020 with a factory code of 43.

Does the dealer claim the battery is new? It may be.

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If that stamped date is the code though, then it would appear it was made April 17 2020 with a factory code of 43.

Does the dealer claim the battery is new? It may be.

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In this Covid environment, that is would be one heck of a new battery.
 

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Discussion Starter #31
No dealership I've talked to knew about any issues with the AT cutting out or popping/backfiring. Weird. Considering there are more than a few posts about it.
 

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Haha, DoublezThumper.


This forum says that the 8 digit code IS NOT the date formulaic code.

Forum Link

VV1048 likely is, and I will need to contact me Yuasa to decode it.
The breakdown I posted above was cut from info on the Yuasa NP series of batteries. Or according to this chart maybe every Yuasa battery except the YT.


A post in this thread which talks about a 2014 MY bike says his battery is stamped 05021443 and with the YT that either means May 02, 2014 or 05 February, 2014.


So with the YT you may be correct in it being a 2017 only real question is which is the month and which is the day.

Edit: actually since yours starts with 20 it would have to be 20 April 2017 based on the info from that guy's 2014 battery in the YT series.





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Discussion Starter #33
I called Yuasa Customer Support at 866-431-4784. They were helpful.

I gave them the info on my YTZ14S battery.

The stamped code on mine is: 20041743.
This translates to a manufacture date of 04/20/2017 on production site 43.
So its deciphered as DDMMYY[XX] - XX denoting production site.


VV1048, the code printed on the top indicates its first charge date of 6/10/2017. This is NOT easily deciphered.

It has a shelf life of only 3 years IF it is topped off and charged EVERY 3 MONTHS. The cs rep stated that it should not be given out with a new bike and will not have its warranty honored in the event of a failure.
 

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Okay, so the guess I had in the "edit" in the post was correct. No doubt they won't warrant it, it is already more than 3 years old and living on borrowed time.



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What dealer did you buy your bike at?

Just FYI, if YOU have to buy a new battery, I've had excellent results with interstate batteries. Typically cheaper than yuasa and found at several auto parts stores.

Otherwise I'd order a yuasa from rocky mountain ATV. Their inventory will no doubt turn over much faster than a dealer and pretty much guarantee you a fresher battery
 

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How cool would it be if you could work a deal with the dealership to install a new LIB. This way you both make out on the deal.
The LIBs are pounds lighter, and very durable.
So, if the battery turns out not to be the issue, you'll still have made an upgrade to the overall bike, and eliminated the most common issue at the same time.

Keeping our fingers crossed that the battery fixes it for you. 🍻
 

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Hi Everyone.

First, I just want to start off and say that I am very experienced on two wheels-that is why these issues I am going to describe seriously baffle me.

My brand new AT has been having niggling issues that are seriously chapping my new motorcycle experience.

It is completely brand new, now, not even 600mi on it-I've owned it since mile 1.

-The very first ride home, it backfired really hard and coughed through the intake while exiting a toll booth. This was after 40 miles on the highway. I was light on throttle during acceleration. I attributed that instance to the ECM learning or something.

-It consistently coughs through the intake or backfires once or twice at some point on any ride I take. I just don't know what the **** is going on.

-I have had 4th to 5th shifts seem to false neutral and show ( -- ) on the gear indicator. The gearbox chatters like its between gears. I just don't get it. I am very deliberate with my shifting and like to make sure I change gears in a very positive and deliberate way. I don't understand why it does this.

-Today. I was riding with my bike on the back cruising only around 35mph for a couple miles straight. The bike popped and flat-out stalled while riding. I pulled in the clutch and restarted it. That could have been VERY dangerous. On the ride home, it popped through the intake. There was very light engine load during any even I have experienced. Its almost as if there is a gap in the fuel mapping or some sort of bad memory where a specific circumstance should be read and accounted for but the ECM can't-or something.

I wrote to Honda CS about the issues I am having and all they did was send me a survey ending the conversation. They didn't even reply to my issues or acknowledge anything. Also, I don't feel comfortable dropping the bike off to the dealership I got it from.

Does anyone else have any idea as to what could be contributing to my issues? I even disconnected the battery to reset the ECM and the issues persist.

Does anyone have ANY idea as to what I can check or should do??
Hi mate ,got my AT in 2016 and i have exactly the same issues , 1-- spluttering / farting problem is most likely cause by on/off /kill switch corroding internally. Its not water proof , every time it rains or you wash it you will have this issue, WD 40 in ya backpack unless honda has an upgrade , just a few squirts and flick the switch several time she`ll be good. 2 -- false neutral between 4 & 5 , absolute frustration , the only way to make this easier is to go into 5th above 4000rpm ,
Mate , hope this helps , took me 8000km of frustration to figure it out.
 

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Hi Everyone.

First, I just want to start off and say that I am very experienced on two wheels-that is why these issues I am going to describe seriously baffle me.

My brand new AT has been having niggling issues that are seriously chapping my new motorcycle experience.

It is completely brand new, now, not even 600mi on it-I've owned it since mile 1.

-The very first ride home, it backfired really hard and coughed through the intake while exiting a toll booth. This was after 40 miles on the highway. I was light on throttle during acceleration. I attributed that instance to the ECM learning or something.

-It consistently coughs through the intake or backfires once or twice at some point on any ride I take. I just don't know what the **** is going on.

-I have had 4th to 5th shifts seem to false neutral and show ( -- ) on the gear indicator. The gearbox chatters like its between gears. I just don't get it. I am very deliberate with my shifting and like to make sure I change gears in a very positive and deliberate way. I don't understand why it does this.

-Today. I was riding with my bike on the back cruising only around 35mph for a couple miles straight. The bike popped and flat-out stalled while riding. I pulled in the clutch and restarted it. That could have been VERY dangerous. On the ride home, it popped through the intake. There was very light engine load during any even I have experienced. Its almost as if there is a gap in the fuel mapping or some sort of bad memory where a specific circumstance should be read and accounted for but the ECM can't-or something.

I wrote to Honda CS about the issues I am having and all they did was send me a survey ending the conversation. They didn't even reply to my issues or acknowledge anything. Also, I don't feel comfortable dropping the bike off to the dealership I got it from.

Does anyone else have any idea as to what could be contributing to my issues? I even disconnected the battery to reset the ECM and the issues persist.

Does anyone have ANY idea as to what I can check or should do??
Please check filter by the fuel pump
Hi Everyone.

First, I just want to start off and say that I am very experienced on two wheels-that is why these issues I am going to describe seriously baffle me.

My brand new AT has been having niggling issues that are seriously chapping my new motorcycle experience.

It is completely brand new, now, not even 600mi on it-I've owned it since mile 1.

-The very first ride home, it backfired really hard and coughed through the intake while exiting a toll booth. This was after 40 miles on the highway. I was light on throttle during acceleration. I attributed that instance to the ECM learning or something.

-It consistently coughs through the intake or backfires once or twice at some point on any ride I take. I just don't know what the **** is going on.

-I have had 4th to 5th shifts seem to false neutral and show ( -- ) on the gear indicator. The gearbox chatters like its between gears. I just don't get it. I am very deliberate with my shifting and like to make sure I change gears in a very positive and deliberate way. I don't understand why it does this.

-Today. I was riding with my bike on the back cruising only around 35mph for a couple miles straight. The bike popped and flat-out stalled while riding. I pulled in the clutch and restarted it. That could have been VERY dangerous. On the ride home, it popped through the intake. There was very light engine load during any even I have experienced. Its almost as if there is a gap in the fuel mapping or some sort of bad memory where a specific circumstance should be read and accounted for but the ECM can't-or something.

I wrote to Honda CS about the issues I am having and all they did was send me a survey ending the conversation. They didn't even reply to my issues or acknowledge anything. Also, I don't feel comfortable dropping the bike off to the dealership I got it from.

Does anyone else have any idea as to what could be contributing to my issues? I even disconnected the battery to reset the ECM and the issues persist.

Does anyone have ANY idea as to what I can check or should do??
[/QUOTE

please check filter by fuel pump. This little sponge once clogged will cause major fueling issues
 

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Hi mate ,got my AT in 2016 and i have exactly the same issues , 1-- spluttering / farting problem is most likely cause by on/off /kill switch corroding internally. Its not water proof , every time it rains or you wash it you will have this issue, WD 40 in ya backpack unless honda has an upgrade , just a few squirts and flick the switch several time she`ll be good. 2 -- false neutral between 4 & 5 , absolute frustration , the only way to make this easier is to go into 5th above 4000rpm ,
Mate , hope this helps , took me 8000km of frustration to figure it out.
Deep 21st century Honda model and the kill switch is not waterproof? My 1976 Yamaha kill switch was waterproof and it was a sun-faded piece of junk.

Shame on Honda build materials designers.

Something to consider:

The next time you open your kill switch and after cleaning it, smear silicone grease around and over the electromechanical components. Smear some grease around the gaskets before reassembly. Water is repelled by silicone grease and the grease will not deteriorate and is electrical-friendly.
 
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