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First let me introduce myself I'm Ross I've just got myself a 2016 manual finally leaving smaller dirt bikes and zx10r behind. So I can see reading some of these forms that many have issues with backfire and glitchy slow speed, but mine also idles badly spluters etc. Once your riding she runs fine it just these issue really get to me you feel like the bike will stall. I'm assuming there is no real fix? Does a sports pipe make any difference?
 

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Unfortunately the bad idle doesn't go away even after an hour ride
Maybe an obvious question, but; did you run some carb cleaner through it yet ?
 

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2016. Too many unknowns. How many KM, how old is the gas? Has prior owner taken any emission parts off or hacked the bike in any way?
Sports pipe will add noise and make a rough running engine run worse.
Fix the problem in your face first, then decide it you want a pipe.
 

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Sorry it's UK model so injection 2016 fuel is new, 8000miles and it's completely stock. I carried out the ECU reset last night made the idle a little better but still sounds like it's misfire
 

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Sorry it's UK model so injection 2016 fuel is new, 8000miles and it's completely stock. I carried out the ECU reset last night made the idle a little better but still sounds like it's misfire
Its hard to figure this out on a forum, typically its going to be fuel or ignition(bad plug or bad plug lead more likely, the caps are a screw fit on the end of the coil lead) but it could be an air leak around the throttle body or the idle stop not playing as it should( in a number of cases the idle comes up by itself and resetting the idle stop fixes it).
I am not saying any of these are what your issue is, it should idle fine. It does need a systematic look at a number of items to make sure they are all good. The question is how confident you are at going through and checking each item or do you know a good bike shop that you can trust to look for the issue. They may not find it on the first go but they should be able to if its that obvious.

On a 2016 with a bad idle or a hard to start (it starts then stops) the very first thing I would do would be disassemble and clean the kill start switch on the right hand switch bank.
Dirt and carbon build up on the switch contacts do cause bad start and idle. Unscrew the switch, be carfull of the little rocker spring as you undo the housing it WILL TRY AND ESCAPE. Give the contacts a very good a prolonged spray with brake cleaner while opening and closing the switch use lots of cleaner, let it dry. Then spray with a dielectric spray like CRC226. Put it back together did it make any difference.
 

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Ok thanks, I'll strip her down but it had had a service new plugs filters etc, it's only the idle it runs fine when your moving. I've never had any issues starting it and it's never cut out yet
 

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Ok just an update I have uploaded the issue to YouTube

After running for 2mins the hiccup disappeared only a little popping
 

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Ok just an update I have uploaded the issue to YouTube

After running for 2mins the hiccup disappeared only a little popping
I am only hearing a variation in idle speed (no popping in there)
I would still clean that right hand switch gear first if you have any electrical path accross the cutout switch it will sound like you have there.
Cleaning the switch gear is a 15 min job and then you know thats good once done.
Mine sounded exactly like yours does now (3years ago) then it got to the stage over about 3 weeks where it would start but then stop after a few seconds, you would have to do that 2-3 times before it would run OK. Cleaning the switch and using the CRC 226 fixed it straight away has never happened again.

If you still have an issue after cleaning.
If it starts fine and never stops after starting I would have a close look at the throttle stop on the right hand side of the engine down where the throttle cables are attached to the throttle body you will see a small set screw with a white dab of paint on it. This is a factory setting and the white paint is where its meant to be. In the case of bikes that go to high idle ie 2k RPM unlocking this and adjusting and putting it back exactly where it is often fixes this, also check you dont have to much play in the cables down on the throttle body.On the opposite end of this (other side of the motor I cant remember if you have to lift the back of the tank to see it) there is the Throttle position sensor it has two set screws that lock it in place. There is a process for adjusting this either on this forum or adv-africatwin. The Shop Manual both say dont play with any of these "Loosening or tightening it can cause throttle valve and idle control failure" so thats your warning message. I have adjusted 3 ATs (16-17 models) with random high idle (yours seems to be random low idle might not be the same) using the right hand screw adjustment; undo, rotate very litlle, put back to where it was, tighten (all with engine off). As if by magic the problem was solved I dont know what its doing it could just be dirt in there I have tried spraying cleaner in there as well did not seam to help.
 
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