Very likely corrosion from moisture inside your switch. I'd start with disassembling and inspecting that. Similar issue is brought up often in regards to the headlight switch on early models where it wont cycle between high/low beams...
No cranking on a 2019 CRF1000 DCT after winter storage
I uncovered my 2019 DCT this morning and tried to fire it up, without success - no cranking at all. The bike has been on a battery tender since I last rode it in the autumn, and previously has started immediately, whatever the conditions. I have plenty of power (headlight and dash is fine), the DCT is in neutral and all the other telltales look okay (just the usual ABS and oil lights). I also hear the usual faint whine when switching on the ignition, but it won't crank at all. The sidestand is up when I try to start it. The battery measured 13.27 when I prodded it with a meter. All fuses look okay [edit: haven't yet checked the main and starter fuse - will do that later].
I thought I might be forgetting something obvious, but then I noticed that the red start button is sticking, i.e. when I push it down it doesn't spring back as (I think) it should. Why would that be happening? It's been under a cover in the garage. Admittedly it's not a heated garage and we had some cold temperatures back in December, but why would the switch stick? I have tried the procedure on p.74 but it has had no effect.
A new battery is one idea, the manual says.
There are many suggestions about opening up the switch and cleaning the contacts. I'm a bit wary of that given that I would also have to move the front brake fluid reservoir to get at the screws for the switchgear, but I guess it's quite straightforward.
Any advice would be much appreciated.
Dan
I thought I might be forgetting something obvious, but then I noticed that the red start button is sticking, i.e. when I push it down it doesn't spring back as (I think) it should. Why would that be happening? It's been under a cover in the garage. Admittedly it's not a heated garage and we had some cold temperatures back in December, but why would the switch stick? I have tried the procedure on p.74 but it has had no effect.
A new battery is one idea, the manual says.
There are many suggestions about opening up the switch and cleaning the contacts. I'm a bit wary of that given that I would also have to move the front brake fluid reservoir to get at the screws for the switchgear, but I guess it's quite straightforward.
Any advice would be much appreciated.
Dan
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A [typical household] heated garage is the worst for promoting rust, especially if the motorcycle is under a non-breathable cover, and if the garage is shared with another commonly used internal combustion vehicle used in winter snow driving.
It won't matter if the AT is not used in winter. It might actually be better to not cover the AT.
I ride in winter and the AT gets nice and salty from the road. It has no garage, so it is stored at outdoor ambient temperatures. Most of my rust forms on the chain, seemingly no matter how much oil it is coated with. The rest of the bike is fine and uncovered. It is just sheltered from direct precipitation.
It won't matter if the AT is not used in winter. It might actually be better to not cover the AT.
I ride in winter and the AT gets nice and salty from the road. It has no garage, so it is stored at outdoor ambient temperatures. Most of my rust forms on the chain, seemingly no matter how much oil it is coated with. The rest of the bike is fine and uncovered. It is just sheltered from direct precipitation.
Might just try exercising the switch a few times, kill/start/kill/start without disassembly. Agree with the above corrosion. Kickstand doesn't effect starting if in neutral, it is showing neutral right?
Three things to stop it like that, the stop switch, the neutral switch, and the side stand switch..
Anyone correct me if I’m wrong.
I recall the side stand switch being normally open, so you can just unplug it to see if that is the issue.. lol never mind, as you said it’s showing “N” and as Hood & rustynut2 pointed out …
Anyone correct me if I’m wrong.
I recall the side stand switch being normally open, so you can just unplug it to see if that is the issue.. lol never mind, as you said it’s showing “N” and as Hood & rustynut2 pointed out …
Unless it is different on the earlier AT's then sidestand won't be the problem as that only kills the engine when in gear and the stand is put down. You can start the bike no problem with the stand down but it will not let you put it in drive if the stand is down.
Neutral switch could be a possibility but you would see if the dash says N or not, if it does then the switch will be ok I would think.
I would say it is the starter switch, as has been mentioned working it back and forth a few times may ease it, maybe spraying in some WD40 or similar whilst trying. I would imagine the contacts will be fairly well sealed but if you get it moving then spray in contact cleaner.
BTW removing the master cylinder from the bars is not an issue just undo the clamp and move it to the side somewhere so you have access, as long as you do not apply the brake even with the master cylinder upside down then you should not have any issues with air getting into the system.
Neutral switch could be a possibility but you would see if the dash says N or not, if it does then the switch will be ok I would think.
I would say it is the starter switch, as has been mentioned working it back and forth a few times may ease it, maybe spraying in some WD40 or similar whilst trying. I would imagine the contacts will be fairly well sealed but if you get it moving then spray in contact cleaner.
BTW removing the master cylinder from the bars is not an issue just undo the clamp and move it to the side somewhere so you have access, as long as you do not apply the brake even with the master cylinder upside down then you should not have any issues with air getting into the system.
In addition to the above advice the lithium batteries on the 2019 AT really should not be put on a tender. These batteries can last for very long durations without needing to be recharged unlike lead acid batteries. If the tender was not made for a lithium battery it most likely destroyed the battery.
Just to be clear, do the lights etc stay on when you press the start button? If they do then it is unlikely to be the battery as if it is knackered everything would go dead if it was trying to crank.
Might just try exercising the switch a few times, kill/start/kill/start without disassembly. Agree with the above corrosion. Kickstand doesn't effect starting if in neutral, it is showing neutral right?
Thanks, so true he did say the bike is in (showing?) Neutral. So that wouldn’t be an issue…Unless it is different on the earlier AT's then sidestand won't be the problem as that only kills the engine when in gear and the stand is put down. You can start the bike no problem with the stand down but it will not let you put it in drive if the stand is down.
Neutral switch could be a possibility but you would see if the dash says N or not, if it does then the switch will be ok I would think.
I would say it is the starter switch, as has been mentioned working it back and forth a few times may ease it, maybe spraying in some WD40 or similar whilst trying. I would imagine the contacts will be fairly well sealed but if you get it moving then spray in contact cleaner.
BTW removing the master cylinder from the bars is not an issue just undo the clamp and move it to the side somewhere so you have access, as long as you do not apply the brake even with the master cylinder upside down then you should not have any issues with air getting into the system.
Thank you everybody for your replies. In no particular order -
- Yes, the lights and everything else stay on when I hit the start button.
- The tender is designed for lithium batteries and I've never had problems before - it has always started without any hesitation.
- The DCT is definitely in neutral, so that's one less thing to worry about.
- I have tried working the switch on and off a few dozen times and it feels a bit easier but it's still not bouncing back.
I can confirm that the starter button on a 2019 DCT should spring back and yours does not.
Occam's Razor = shave away all other possibilities to get to the most logical solution.
Therefore....
You have a faulty starter switch.
Occam's Razor = shave away all other possibilities to get to the most logical solution.
Therefore....
You have a faulty starter switch.
I wonder if the kill switch spring mystically turned to brown powder?
(more likely some cheap plastic nub inside the switch gear fractured)
(more likely some cheap plastic nub inside the switch gear fractured)
I'm hoping nothing I can't fix myself, otherwise I'll need to call somebody out...(more likely some cheap plastic nub inside the switch gear fractured)
Maybe keep a decent quality epoxy on standby.I'm hoping nothing I can't fix myself, otherwise I'll need to call somebody out...
Have though of posting something like this but always seemed trivial. In the past we have had four-wheelers left in freezing rain and the switches have become frozen, so then useless until thawed and obviously not good for the controls. I've developed a routine of, occasionally when passing a bike or wheeler or otherwise anything with externally-exposed controls, with no power applied, switching all controls several times, everything, lights, signals, starter, every switch just exercise a few times. Got to imagine it's helpful, good luck -Might just try exercising the switch a few times, kill/start/kill/start without disassembly.
I would use one of the small plastic tubes that comes on cans of contact cleaner and blast it as well as you can through the sides of the switch with a big rag to catch the mess and wearing safety glasses and if you can get the switch working just activate it a few dozen timesI'm hoping nothing I can't fix myself, otherwise I'll need to call somebody out...
Yes, my thought too, gave it a go earlier but had difficulty getting any in.I would use one of the small plastic tubes that comes on cans of contact cleaner and blast it as well as you can through the sides of the switch with a big rag to catch the mess and wearing safety glasses and if you can get the switch working just activate it a few dozen times
I will try again tomorrow.
If you're willing to replace the switch, but you want to avoid that if you can, I would consider either opening the switch (if that's possible) or drilling a tiny hole in the switch so that you can directly blast the switch contacts. If it works, epoxy over the hole, if it doesn't, you haven't lost anything anyway. Can you possibly slightly access the interior of the switch so as to apply contact cleaner? Good luck -
Recently posted a similar solution to a similar issue elsewhere. Open the two halves of the switch and clean the switch internals:
1) Remove any corrosion on the contacts with an emery board (ask her indoors).
2) Give the internals a good dose of maintenance spray (Triple QX, GT85 or reassuringly expensive WD40) this will remove any debris left from the emery filing, any moisture and some accumulated dirt.
3) Give the internals a goodly spray of brake cleaner, again operating the switch between sprays, this will remove the maintenance spray and whatever else is left behind in the switch.
4) Pack out the switch internals with silicone grease, operate the switch to distribute the grease where you can't reach, check you haven't blocked the drain holes on the underside of the switch. Helps to prevent any future occurrences of the same issue.
While you're there why not treat the other handlebar switch the same?
Test, reassemble, test again.
1) Remove any corrosion on the contacts with an emery board (ask her indoors).
2) Give the internals a good dose of maintenance spray (Triple QX, GT85 or reassuringly expensive WD40) this will remove any debris left from the emery filing, any moisture and some accumulated dirt.
3) Give the internals a goodly spray of brake cleaner, again operating the switch between sprays, this will remove the maintenance spray and whatever else is left behind in the switch.
4) Pack out the switch internals with silicone grease, operate the switch to distribute the grease where you can't reach, check you haven't blocked the drain holes on the underside of the switch. Helps to prevent any future occurrences of the same issue.
While you're there why not treat the other handlebar switch the same?
Test, reassemble, test again.
This morning I popped out to the garage and was able to displace the brake reservoir.
It wasn't easy, because the wiring for the cables is attached to that assembly, so I didn't have much room to work and I was worried about tearing the cable out.
Eventually I managed to create enough clearance get a Wera mini ratchet in there and get the screws out. I then blasted a bit of contact cleaner into the back of the start button (access is much better, as you can see below) and worked it a bit and now the button is springing back.
So that looks promising, but I won't know for sure until I put the battery back in later and see whether it actually starts or not
![Motor vehicle Automotive tire Engineering Gas Cable]()
I'm in two minds about going any further and undoing the 3 screws in front of me.
I really don't want to open it and have a "ping - aah **** it!" situation with parts and tiny springs flying everywhere.
On the other hand, I'll never have a better opportunity...
It wasn't easy, because the wiring for the cables is attached to that assembly, so I didn't have much room to work and I was worried about tearing the cable out.
Eventually I managed to create enough clearance get a Wera mini ratchet in there and get the screws out. I then blasted a bit of contact cleaner into the back of the start button (access is much better, as you can see below) and worked it a bit and now the button is springing back.
So that looks promising, but I won't know for sure until I put the battery back in later and see whether it actually starts or not
I'm in two minds about going any further and undoing the 3 screws in front of me.
I really don't want to open it and have a "ping - aah **** it!" situation with parts and tiny springs flying everywhere.
On the other hand, I'll never have a better opportunity...
1 - 20 of 94 Posts
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