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Hello, I drive a Africa Twin '16 DCT with tyres Metzeler Tourance Next. Me too are experiencing handlebar shake (or wobble), almost in any condition. Not so strong, but pretty annoying, though holding the handlebars very lightly. At speeding the vibrations even affect my vision. Problem that was almost unknown with the previous tyres: Pirelli Skorpion Trail II, no matter how worn they were or the speed. Tyres are balanced and the shake is far more light when driving without the topbox, but still present. Had exactly the same problem with my previous "bike", Honda Integra, that I called "almost bike" ;-) With the Integra I used four different types of tyres and it didn't shake only with one of them.
With that experience and reading around in forums, Italians also, I came to this conclusion: these bikes have an imbalance somewhere, imbalance that is lessened or totally eliminated with the right tyre. That is because if the bike doesn't have an imbalance, it shouldn't shake or wobble, no matter the tyres (of course tyres not defective and well balanced). Am I too simplistic?
It’s the AT, she doesn’t care for some tires, who knows why. I did notice that in my case the shake went away as the tire worn down.
And that my new Dunlop mission didn’t shake at all...
 

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Discussion Starter #62
Hello Luciano. I am the one who started this particular thread with my search. Everyone has been so helpful, but there is definitely a variance of opinions and suggestions. Please let me tell you what I have come up with.
After checking steering head bearings (cheap check) and making sure tires were balanced, along with break rotors (making sure they are straight) I moved on to two conclusions.
it’s a combination of tires, and more importantly- suspension. There are so many factors which could cause for a bar shake, but on this particular bike those are the culprits.
After considering this entire thread, I went and spent $500 on new stiffer springs up front (in the forks). Did it make the wobble go away? The answer was NO- BUT it made it much better.
At first I was a bit disappointed but also loved how the bike handles with new front springs. After continuing to look into it, it keeps coming back to suspension. The problem is worse when more weight on the rear. The true answer is these bikes come under sprung from the factory (I heard for 185lbs). I weigh around 210lbs and ride with full GIVI top and side boxes, plus my wife (100lbs). Not it’s way under-sprung. I am convinced the eliminate the wobble all together, I should now invest in the REAR spring as well. Probably an expensive upgrade, but it will tighten the whole bike up and make it feel nicer (and also hopefully fix the light shake).
After all that, if I an not happy, I will switch my front tire (currently and E09 50/50) to something less aggressive (like an 80/20). I am riding long distance pavement mostly these days anyways, with a mix of logging roads.
So my conclusion? Upgrade all suspension. It should fix the problem. If you can’t afford it (like many of us in this current bull **** economy caused by Corona Virus) there is one more solution.

Start losing weight.
 

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Hello Luciano. I am the one who started this particular thread with my search. Everyone has been so helpful, but there is definitely a variance of opinions and suggestions. Please let me tell you what I have come up with.
After checking steering head bearings (cheap check) and making sure tires were balanced, along with break rotors (making sure they are straight) I moved on to two conclusions.
it’s a combination of tires, and more importantly- suspension. There are so many factors which could cause for a bar shake, but on this particular bike those are the culprits.
After considering this entire thread, I went and spent $500 on new stiffer springs up front (in the forks). Did it make the wobble go away? The answer was NO- BUT it made it much better.
At first I was a bit disappointed but also loved how the bike handles with new front springs. After continuing to look into it, it keeps coming back to suspension. The problem is worse when more weight on the rear. The true answer is these bikes come under sprung from the factory (I heard for 185lbs). I weigh around 210lbs and ride with full GIVI top and side boxes, plus my wife (100lbs). Not it’s way under-sprung. I am convinced the eliminate the wobble all together, I should now invest in the REAR spring as well. Probably an expensive upgrade, but it will tighten the whole bike up and make it feel nicer (and also hopefully fix the light shake).
After all that, if I an not happy, I will switch my front tire (currently and E09 50/50) to something less aggressive (like an 80/20). I am riding long distance pavement mostly these days anyways, with a mix of logging roads.
So my conclusion? Upgrade all suspension. It should fix the problem. If you can’t afford it (like many of us in this current bull **** economy caused by Corona Virus) there is one more solution.

Start losing weight.
Thank you very much for your suggestions. It was my intention to "modify" both suspensions, not for the shake, but I might not wait as long as planned. There is a very good suspension technician (don't know if is the right term), famous in Italy among bikers. He takes the original suspensions and makes some changes, like using a different oil, and other things I'm not able to explain. He already modified the Integra and it became a totally different bike, in positive, of course.
 

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Hello Halfrican Twin and others, yesterday I took care of the suspensions settings and discovered that they where not set to the factory values (as I was told by the dealer/technician who sold me the bike second hand).
The three settings of the forks where set to maximum, and the rear suspension had only pre-load around factory values whereas the other two where also to maximum. Never noticed anything, but this is my first bike and for me it had wonderful suspensions :D
Anyhow, I set the suspensions taking into account my wheight, heavy crashbars and topbox and the wobble is almonst gone; it still vibrates but very lightly. But in the proccess another problem aroused (that could be the origin of the vibrations). The right pre-load adjuster bolt was stuck and when I succeed to untighten it, it came up (see attachement) and now there it doesn't screw or unscrew anymore. So now I beleive front pre-load is set to minimum.
Funny that Maintenance manual doesn't take into account the suspensions as troublesooting tor wobbling; it states:

Front wheel wobbling
• Bent rim
• Bent spoke
• Worn or damaged front wheel bearings
• Insufficient tire pressure
• Faulty tire
• Unbalanced front tire and wheel
 

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So you said you changed the rear preload But you didn't touch the front preload? I'd start by adding 1 turn to your front preload adjusters and maybe 2 clicks of compression. Keep adding preload to the front untill it stops. You'll need to set the race sag though eventually.
 

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So you said you changed the rear preload But you didn't touch the front preload? I'd start by adding 1 turn to your front preload adjusters and maybe 2 clicks of compression. Keep adding preload to the front untill it stops. You'll need to set the race sag though eventually.
Thank you, I did it, but still need to fix the bolt I mentioned earlier.
 

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Yeah that part is going to require a little more effort I think. You might be able to loosen the top cap to release some of the spring tension and then screw the preload adjuster back in and then replace the cap. I'm not to familiar with them though. The AT is the only bike I have ever had that had a spring preload adjustment on the fork.
 

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Hello Luciano. I am the one who started this particular thread with my search. Everyone has been so helpful, but there is definitely a variance of opinions and suggestions. Please let me tell you what I have come up with.
After checking steering head bearings (cheap check) and making sure tires were balanced, along with break rotors (making sure they are straight) I moved on to two conclusions.
it’s a combination of tires, and more importantly- suspension. There are so many factors which could cause for a bar shake, but on this particular bike those are the culprits.
After considering this entire thread, I went and spent $500 on new stiffer springs up front (in the forks). Did it make the wobble go away? The answer was NO- BUT it made it much better.
At first I was a bit disappointed but also loved how the bike handles with new front springs. After continuing to look into it, it keeps coming back to suspension. The problem is worse when more weight on the rear. The true answer is these bikes come under sprung from the factory (I heard for 185lbs). I weigh around 210lbs and ride with full GIVI top and side boxes, plus my wife (100lbs). Not it’s way under-sprung. I am convinced the eliminate the wobble all together, I should now invest in the REAR spring as well. Probably an expensive upgrade, but it will tighten the whole bike up and make it feel nicer (and also hopefully fix the light shake).
After all that, if I an not happy, I will switch my front tire (currently and E09 50/50) to something less aggressive (like an 80/20). I am riding long distance pavement mostly these days anyways, with a mix of logging roads.
So my conclusion? Upgrade all suspension. It should fix the problem. If you can’t afford it (like many of us in this current bull **** economy caused by Corona Virus) there is one more solution.

Start losing weight.
HT, as I offered early in this thread you can chase a lot of potential solutions from one end of the bike to the other. Seems you are doing that with ‘some’ success. BUT after that and with all the great advice here you still haven’t solved the riddle. I hope a new rear spring does it for you but be warned... I have a 2020 with electronic suspension. I weigh about 180lbs. With a couple button pushes I can set my suspension to 2 people with luggage even though I’m riding solo. If soft suspension was the problem it seems that would solve it. It does not....
Can anyone here explain that?
 

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Here's the problem and I think I mentioned it earlier in the thread, it's the REAR spring! You can't get enough preload if you are a heavier rider or an avg American rider. I've got over 35 years riding with a vast majority of that roadracing and doing trackdays. The absolute first thing you should do to any bike before spending money on any goofy farkles is to get the suspension set-up correctly for your weight and riding style. Of course as you add farkles and you'll need to re-adjust for heavier items and for when you are loaded down on a trip or carrying a passenger. That's jut the way it is.

You get that front-end wobble when you've taken too much weight off the front-end of the bike. It's too light and can wobble and shake. Worse case a tank slap that will throw you.

Another benefit of doing your suspension first is the bike will ride and handle better.

Personally on my 2019 ATAS, I went with an Ohlins rear shock and had the front forks resprung. Handles amazing on and offroad.

@dallas - The electronic suspension on the new ATAS does not adjust for preload. Only compression and rebound damping. Preload is a whole different story. I'd advise you to measure the preload and see if it is correct. I bet it's not I had a 2017 BMW GSA which actually did have electronic preload. The problem with that is when you push the single rider button, it didn't actually measure the sag with the rider and gear, but just used some predetermined preload. You could see the bike rise or lower with different selection. BUT it wasn't right for me. Even when riding with no load, I still had to pick the "rider and loaded with gear" mode to get the preload right.
 

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The electronic suspension on the new ATAS does not adjust for preload.
The electronic suspension DOES INCREASE PRELOAD. I just did it. With ignition on (kill switch off) select passenger, the pump comes on and bike rises. Select luggage, pump come me on and the bike rises more. Of course this can all happen with the bike running but I did it this way to listen to the pump and watch the rise without engine noise and vibration.
I’ll go for a ride later and specifically compare the wobble between the settings. When done previously it did not cure the wobble.
 

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The electronic suspension DOES INCREASE PRELOAD. I just did it. With ignition on (kill switch off) select passenger, the pump comes on and bike rises. Select luggage, pump comes on and the bike rises more. Of course this can all happen with the bike running but I did it this way to listen to the pump and watch the rise without engine noise and vibration.
I’ll go for a ride later and specifically compare the wobble between the settings. When done previously it did not cure the wobble.
 

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Thanks for correcting me. I checked the specs on the 2020 and it did not mention automatic preload. Thanks again for clarifying this.

I would make sure that the preload is correct by manually verifying it. Curious to hear as my 2017 BMW GSA did adjust for preload but it was not right. I wound up putting it on a higher setting to get the desired preload


The electronic suspension DOES INCREASE PRELOAD. I just did it. With ignition on (kill switch off) select passenger, the pump comes on and bike rises. Select luggage, pump come me on and the bike rises more. Of course this can all happen with the bike running but I did it this way to listen to the pump and watch the rise without engine noise and vibration.
I’ll go for a ride later and specifically compare the wobble between the settings. When done previously it did not cure the wobble.
 

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I have not done any further measuring or investigating so I can’t verify this but I think you are correct in that these are preset assumptions Honda programmed in. There are user programmable options I haven’t explored yet but am hoping I can set it up with correct preload/sag. According to the owner’s manual there are 24 available preload settings in User 1 and User 2 riding modes. I will explore...
 

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This is weird... I just took a short ride to test some settings. First I removed the panniers and top box. I jacked up the preload and damping to make all the settings as harsh as I could. If there is a wobble it is barely perceivable. Then I changed them to all soft. Same result, no wobble. Without changing settings I put the panniers and box on...wobble persistent at 37-39 mph. I jacked up all settings to harshest/highest...barely reduced wobble. I stopped and took off only the top box...no wobble. I reduced the settings to soft, still no wobble. IT’S THE TOP BOX.
btw, panniers and box are empty.
 

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This is weird... I just took a short ride to test some settings. First I removed the panniers and top box. I jacked up the preload and damping to make all the settings as harsh as I could. If there is a wobble it is barely perceivable. Then I changed them to all soft. Same result, no wobble. Without changing settings I put the panniers and box on...wobble persistent at 37-39 mph. I jacked up all settings to harshest/highest...barely reduced wobble. I stopped and took off only the top box...no wobble. I reduced the settings to soft, still no wobble. IT’S THE TOP BOX.
btw, panniers and box are empty.
Sounds like a new bike for the top box is in order. :p
 
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