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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Good day every one. I hope some one can help.

I poet my key in and turned the bike on, as I jumped on and started the bike up the screen did a little flash and went off. turned the key off and back on and it came back on, I hit the starter, it tried to turnover but then lost all power. it did that a couple of times and now it just dose not get any power. all the fuses are good, the battery is fully charged with 12.8v but I get nothing. I noticed that my H.I.S.S light is also not flashing any more. all dealers are closed right now so I cant phone them till Tuesday and i am supposed to go on a ride tomorrow.

any advise please
 

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Good day every one. I hope some one can help.

I poet my key in and turned the bike on, as I jumped on and started the bike up the screen did a little flash and went off. turned the key off and back on and it came back on, I hit the starter, it tried to turnover but then lost all power. it did that a couple of times and now it just dose not get any power. all the fuses are good, the battery is fully charged with 12.8v but I get nothing. I noticed that my H.I.S.S light is also not flashing any more. all dealers are closed right now so I cant phone them till Tuesday and i am supposed to go on a ride tomorrow.

any advise please
As advised before, check the fuses under the seat.

If they are ok, check the battery terminal connections and make sure they are tight. Check also the ground connection from the battery to the frame.

There is a main ground connection under the left middle cowl, a bunch of green cables are bolted to the frame, check that as well.

Does the dashboard turns on? What about the turn signals?
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
I have cheked all fuses and conections and I still get no power, the dashboard dose not evan come on. I did not check if turn signals work. I cheked voltage from positave to all difarent points of he frame and got 12.8v
 

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12.8 is a little low with key off. 13.2V is better. You could have a poor contact and see voltage but no ability to allow good current flow.

The battery connections are tight to access. Positive is fairly easy but negative - you have to be sure there is good contact. Very easy to get poor contact especially if any accessory wire is attached as the plastic shroud and deep hole make you think it's tight, but after a bit of riding & vibrations things move around and the intermittent / poor contact cause the type of issue you are seeing.

If it's a standard, make sure it is in neutral - clutch and side stand switches can prevent starting but you should still have dash lights. DCT - I've no idea about switch interlocks.

You said you checked fuses - visually or did you pull them and check with multimeter?

Any accessories added that could have introduced gremlins?
 

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There is a small fuse box and from what you describe it could be the 7.5A fuse in there. Mine popped when I had a faulty plug and socket on some accessory lights on my top box.
 

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Just a thought and observation against your OP. Last year I had a GSF600 that acted in a similar way, the dash flickered on and off then died and I had no electrics at all. I checked all the fuses, side stand, neutral and kill switches with a multi meter and they were all fine. I checked the battery terminals and they were tight and in good condition and the value across the terminals was 12.6v. After a serious amount of time trying to diagnose the problem i decided to swap the battery out for one out of my new bike and low and behold the minute i connected it up the bike dash and lights came on instantly and she fired up. The battery had completely discharged itself and didn't have the amps to even illuminate the dash and lights, it was completely goosed. So it may be worth swapping the battery, if you can, for one that you know is good, even if just to eliminate this as being the problem, Start at the simple 1st point of power and then work back.
 

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the value across the terminals was 12.6v.
You should have checked the voltage with a load, it would have immediately given you the information you needed.
You could check the battery voltage with the key on or you could connect a 12V bulb (or any other load) to the terminals while reading the voltage.
As you found out, a bad battery can have a voltage that looks not too bad with no load. But with a load the voltage will look VERY different between a good & bad battery.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Some feed back on what the problam is

I took it to Honda, the problam is the ignition switch failed. the one problam I was hoping it was not. Now i am going to be with out my baby and my only transport for 4 to 6 weeks. That is how long it is going to take for a new ignition to arive to South Africa
 
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