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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Folks ,
I know it sounds silly but looks like thread on one of the nuts for the left side black cover which is 5mm Allen key is damaged and I can't get any grip on it. Any recommendations or suggestions on how to open? Mine is a month old Atas non dct.
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We ran across the same thing about a month ago. A parts customer of mine got his bike from another dealership and the bolts were cross-threaded. We got one out but had to drill out the other.

The battery box is a dealer setup item, along with mirrors, windshield, etc. I suspect a power tool was used in a hurry. The dealership should fix it.
 

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2022 CRF1100 ATAS ES DCT
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That looks well rounded, probably too much even for the Wera Hex Plus keys. You may get away with hammering in a Torx bit but I think the brackets at the back will be too flimsy for the hammering.
Personally I would use a 6mm left hand drill and hopefully it will unwind whilst you drill it, if not the if you can pop the head off you should be able to get the rest out with vice grips once the tool box is released.
The extractor bits mentioned above may work but I think it is a 5mm thread so it will have to be a small drill you use if attempting that method.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Another option is if you can get a sharp chisel in and tap the chisel on the periphery of the head in the unwinding direction.
Thanks for the valuable suggestions. Dealership I got from is 150 miles away but i m going to call the one near my place to see if they can help out. Chisel is a good idea too but nothing else seems to b working with no grip to hold the screw.
 

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2022 CRF1100 ATAS ES DCT
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If the chisel fails then as said drill off the head, it will pop off and then you will be able to remove the tool box and pliers or vice grips should be easy enough to get in and the remains of the screw should come out easily. They are shoulder bolts and I am not 100% sure what diameter the shoulder is but I would try with a 6 or 6.5mm drill first to see.
 

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The kits above mostly will only work if you pre-drill the machine screw to be removed although with a hex socket head you may already have a good enough hole to get some purchase. If not choose a drill bit half the diameter of the bolt's shank and drill a hole three quarters of the bolts shank diameter deep. For example of a M8 bolt, centre punch the bolt head and slowly drill a 4mm wide by 6mm deep hole, insert a 3-6 mm extractor bit and slowly turn the extractor anticlockwise using a suitable sized spanner, pliers or grips while gently pushing the extractor into the hole. If you use a power tool the risk is the extractor bit will spin too fast and self destruct, either destroying the extractor bit or the presion hole you've just drilled in the bolt shank. My weapon of choice of extractor bit is the 'easy out' type which I've tried and tested over time when working in the trade . Similar to these...
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Also available in kits to include the HSS drill bits but the drill bits are usually of poor quality...
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Before you drill the head off try this.... A flat bladed screwdriver with tapered shoulders. There should be plenty in most toolboxes so try to find one which only just fits across the widest inner shoulders of the bolt. Lightly tap it in to the head and keep checking as you go. Once the slot is tight in the bottom of the well then press hard and give it a turn. If it doesn't work then no harm done and go for the other options from the boffins.... 😬
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Thank you. Will try some of the things that I believe I can handle with my limited skills and update this thread. Thank you for the valuable inputs. By the way just noticed another thread with similar symptoms. Looks like honda has cut corners on the quality of the nuts/bolts used. What do you guys feel?

 

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2022 CRF1100 ATAS ES DCT
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Skid plate gets a lot of water and muck so probably it should be expected it will seize up. When I get a new bike I remove all screws that will get tortured with the salt from the roads and give them a coating of aluminium anti seize paste, pays dividends in the long run.
Regarding the other button heads on the AT, Honda decided to keep all of them a 5mm hex which is good in the respect you only need one hex key, the bad thing is on any fastener under M8 the hex has to be shallow so as not to make them too weak, this means they are easily rounded with a poor fitting hex key or using an impact gun/driver.
 
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