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Discussion Starter #1
I have acquired a used set of OEM panniers for my 2019 ATAS. These have lock cylinders installed but no key. Fortunately the previous owner left the cases locked in the open position. I have ordered new lock cylinder kits for the panniers and am comfortable with setting up new lock cylinders for my bike's key. So far I have been unable to find a video that shows removal from and reinstallation of the lock cylinders in the actual pannier cases. I would be more comfortable if I could see this done before I start to take these apart. Does anyone have link to a video or illustrated PDF that shows the procedure?
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Here is a good video on this:
Thanks Rod and Scott. The cases in the video are for the 2020. My cases are for the 2016 to 2019 AT. It is still more information than I had and gives a better idea of how things go together.
 

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The dealer installed the ones in my 2020 since it was part of the ‘deal’. They did say it was a bit of a learning experience for them as they had never done it before.
 

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Thanks Rod and Scott. The cases in the video are for the 2020. My cases are for the 2016 to 2019 AT. It is still more information than I had and gives a better idea of how things go together.
I'll be doing this in the next couple of weeks, when the second pannier gets here. if you haven't done yours by then I'll post something up.
The used pannier that just got here came with a key, so I don't want to take it apart until the other one comes, and I get the cylinder kit for it.
 

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Hey Bill,

Did you get a chance to work on this yet?
If so, would be great to see how you did it. :)
I just pulled out the lock assembly this morning before work.
Took about 15 minutes to get it out. 10 minutes to figure out how I wanted to do it. and 5 minutes to actually get it out... lol
I took every shortcut I could, so it may be a bit fiddly going back together. There may be an easier/better way.

Here is where I'm at:

Green arrows are Torx 20 fastners for the latch slider cover. Removed both and slid the cover off.
Red lines are for the 6 allen screws (5mm heads). This is what holds the entire latch assembly in place. I removed all of them. The two upper ones will be visible when you remove the slider cover. The slider latch needs to be dropped down to get to one of the allen screws (next picture).
56599


With the slider cover out, you can see the two Phillips screws which hold the slider in place. I removed those two screws (which also hold the carry handle on).
56600


In the above picture, you can see how that one Allen screw is covered by the latch plate. Remove it with the slider out of the way.
The sliding latch uses really small e-clips. I didn't want to deal with them, so I just carefully (Chinese jig-saw puzzle style) slid the latch assembly back through the slot, so I could access the lock.
56601


Then there is the big e-clip that releases the linkage from the lock assembly. I removed that, and the cylinder holding clip, which allows removing the lock cylinder assembly.
From here I'll use the video I posted to get the tumbler unit out. Then assemble in reverse order.
Will post up, when it goes back together.
56602


Hope this helps you out.
 

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Man. A would-be thief with their battery driven Dremel tool could get around that faster.

Great coverage of your effort.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Man. A would-be thief with their battery driven Dremel tool could get around that faster.

Great coverage of your effort.
Thank you. That is the view I was hoping to find. I was told only the four lower screws need to be removed. I suspected there was far more to than that person mentioned. Now that I have your comments and pictures, I am far less likely to break something I shouldn't. I only need wait for arrival of the new cylinders.
 

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Very cool!
When you do yours, if you find a better,/easier way, please post up.
The way you titled this thread, would make a future search for someone real easy.
Good luck on your swap! 🍻

I finished putting it together during lunch break, sans the key tumbler (need to get one this weekend).
It was just a bit fiddley going together, because the coupler between the key cylinder, and the linkage is held in place by that round spring washer, linkage, flat washer, and then the e-clip.
The only one of my fat fingers which would fit inside the cylinder housing is my small finger. I couldn't hold the whole thing still and keep enough downward pressure. So after about 30 seconds of frustration, I pulled my finger out, and was wiping the grease off on a napkin while trying to think of how to keep that coupler in place. Then I looked at the napkin.
Stuffed it down the hole and packed it tight with the screw driver. Worked perfect.
Those nut inserts sitting on top where loose, and fell out. The other three were tight and stayed in place. So watch when you pull the latch assembly out.
56608


Once that was connected, it was just a matter of reverse order assembly. Total time about 10 minutes.
56609


Here are the tools I used (Leatherman was used to put the e-clip back on, because I forgot to bring pliers inside... lol).
Flat blade screwdriver to get e-clip off, and test lock function w/o tumbler. Pick to get tumbler out of lock cylinder, #20 Torx for the latch slider cover, Phillips for the latch slider screws, Leatherman for the e-clip, 5mm allen socket (easier than using a allen wrench).
56612

And now it's back on the bike waiting for key tumblers for both sides.
56610
 

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Bought a new tumbler assembly, and with all the pins in the kit, along with the one old tumber, I was able to build both tumblers to fit the key.
It is now done, and working great. :)

Hope your install goes as easy. 🍻


56731
 

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Speaking of rekeying a lock. For those that know the keys that are in this cylinder, what the purpose of the sub tumbler, the very first tumbler the key would come in contact with and goes all the way around the key?

I bought a use OEM top case, complete really cheap. I rekeyed existing lock with left over tumblers from my original set. My key uses the A sub tumbler, so I had a B sub tumbler left, and the lock in that used top case had a B as well.

I rekeyed without using the first tumbler, works fine.
 

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I'm definitely not a locksmith, but It appears to be a support pin.
So the tumbler is supported from pulling out, at the top and bottom.
I was able to use a dremel on the internal key pad of the 5 pin so it would work correctly in the used tumbler. I can't remember if I had a B and needed an A, or if I had an A and needed a B.
Saved me from buying a second tumbler, while still having all pins active.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Hey Bill,

Did you get a chance to work on this yet?
If so, would be great to see how you did it. :)
I just pulled out the lock assembly this morning before work.
Took about 15 minutes to get it out. 10 minutes to figure out how I wanted to do it. and 5 minutes to actually get it out... lol
I took every shortcut I could, so it may be a bit fiddly going back together. There may be an easier/better way.

Here is where I'm at:

Green arrows are Torx 20 fastners for the latch slider cover. Removed both and slid the cover off.
Red lines are for the 6 allen screws (5mm heads). This is what holds the entire latch assembly in place. I removed all of them. The two upper ones will be visible when you remove the slider cover. The slider latch needs to be dropped down to get to one of the allen screws (next picture).
View attachment 56599

With the slider cover out, you can see the two Phillips screws which hold the slider in place. I removed those two screws (which also hold the carry handle on).
View attachment 56600

In the above picture, you can see how that one Allen screw is covered by the latch plate. Remove it with the slider out of the way.
The sliding latch uses really small e-clips. I didn't want to deal with them, so I just carefully (Chinese jig-saw puzzle style) slid the latch assembly back through the slot, so I could access the lock.
View attachment 56601

Then there is the big e-clip that releases the linkage from the lock assembly. I removed that, and the cylinder holding clip, which allows removing the lock cylinder assembly.
From here I'll use the video I posted to get the tumbler unit out. Then assemble in reverse order.
Will post up, when it goes back togethe
Hey Bill,

Did you get a chance to work on this yet?
If so, would be great to see how you did it. :)
I just pulled out the lock assembly this morning before work.
Took about 15 minutes to get it out. 10 minutes to figure out how I wanted to do it. and 5 minutes to actually get it out... lol
I took every shortcut I could, so it may be a bit fiddly going back together. There may be an easier/better way.

Here is where I'm at:

Green arrows are Torx 20 fastners for the latch slider cover. Removed both and slid the cover off.
Red lines are for the 6 allen screws (5mm heads). This is what holds the entire latch assembly in place. I removed all of them. The two upper ones will be visible when you remove the slider cover. The slider latch needs to be dropped down to get to one of the allen screws (next picture).
View attachment 56599

With the slider cover out, you can see the two Phillips screws which hold the slider in place. I removed those two screws (which also hold the carry handle on).
View attachment 56600

In the above picture, you can see how that one Allen screw is covered by the latch plate. Remove it with the slider out of the way.
The sliding latch uses really small e-clips. I didn't want to deal with them, so I just carefully (Chinese jig-saw puzzle style) slid the latch assembly back through the slot, so I could access the lock.
View attachment 56601

Then there is the big e-clip that releases the linkage from the lock assembly. I removed that, and the cylinder holding clip, which allows removing the lock cylinder assembly.
From here I'll use the video I posted to get the tumbler unit out. Then assemble in reverse order.
Will post up, when it goes back together.
View attachment 56602

Hope this helps you out.
Rather than remove the screw holding the slide and handle, I removed the small e-clip attaching the actuator bar to the slide. If you do this and even suspect you may have damaged the e-clip, do not reuse it. Go get a new clip. the clip came off on me after the pannier was locked and on the bike. I was able to remove the box from the bike but unable to open it. I ended up leaving the key in the unlocked position, removing the hinge pins and slipping a 2 foot carpenters square through the gap to slide the latch over so the lid would open. At that point I installed the new e-clip and put everything back together. Easy enough to do on a bench but not so easy if still attached to the bike.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Hammer and a punch would be even faster... lol
Only if you want the case open just once. Not so good if you plan on keeping them in service after. I removed the inner and outer cylinders from both panniers and had a locksmith work on the inner cylinders. The pictures show the sequence for putting everything back together. The last picture was part of the disassembly. I disconnected one end on each strap to keep the lid out of the way while working on the lock mechanisms. As mentioned elsewhere do not reuse the e-clips if you even suspect you may have damaged them. I did and it took a while to figure out how to get the locked box open enough to slip a carpenters square in and slide the latching hook to the open position. The hinge pins had to be removed and then reinstalled. I won't be making that mistake again.
 

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