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Off to Dead Horse in 2023--Looking for Advice, Ridicule, Condemnation or Support

6K views 76 replies 19 participants last post by  Fuzzcat 
#1 ·
Well, I have a good Army buddy who lives in North Pole, AK (yes, there really is such a place...Google it) who shames me today because I have promised for a couple of years to stop by to see him for a few days whenever I'm "in the area" and have yet to do so. Two years ago (2021) Ol' Red & I rode the Colorado BDR...1,700 miles with most of it off road. This last year (2022) I attended the Get On ADV Fest in Sturgis, SD (won't be doing that one again). So this year I pledge to my buddy and to the Forum that I will ride Ol' Red to Dead Horse and back (OMG...did I just write that?).

Yes, I did! So here's the deal. I am going to plan a trip from my home in North Carolina to Dead Horse, Alaska. I may truck Ol' Red to a good line of departure or ride her all the way...TBD. I suspect I will be doing a lot of camping. I have all (or most of) the gear I think I will need for dry camping when needed in or out of AK. I plan to carry my 44 Mag which I think I can get through Canadian customs with the right paperwork unless the laws have become so stoopid up there that nothing gets through.

The bottom line is this: I'm not getting any younger! This is a trip I have wanted to take for a couple of years now, and the bike is capable...God willing. I have almost 60 years of riding experience. I'm an Iron Butt rider. I have been across the US (west-to-east and east-to-west) several times. I'm a US Army combat veteran: there are not too many things that worry me about long distance riding. So here's the call:

I have available almost anything I would need for camping, traveling, maintaining and surviving. What I'm looking for is good advice from folks who have ridden in areas like the Dalton Highway who might help me decide what to take and what to leave behind. Bike maintenance I'm good with. Camping in AK, I could use some help. You get the idea. Drop me a question if you're not sure how to help.

Check out this guy's instructive video about Dead Horse. Looks like I'll want to turn around ASAP:


I'm looking forward to the discussion. Thanks for everyone who takes time to comment.

Best regards,

W2
 
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#2 ·
May not add anything meaningful to the coversation, but - go for it! (y)(y)(y)

…just a quick note related to the attached video: could those “legged” buildings be a way to cope with radon gas seeping from the ground? I have seen similar construction in north-Sweden, if memory serves. A common problem in some ancient land mass areas (cratons).
 
#3 · (Edited)
I don't think so Alpha. I believe it's to keep the buildings from being torn up by the constantly shifting permafrost underneath.
 
#4 ·
I did this trip a few years back with my dad and a friend (dad's 70). We camped the whole time.

We went across the USA (left from Maine/NY) through black hills, bighorn nat forest, Yellowstone then up toward Kalispell/glacier NP to the Banff, ice parkway area then we took the road to hyder and up the cassiar highway (may have spelled that wrong). We went all around the coast before going up top and back toward Maine.

Notes from the trip:

Don't underestimate how fast the roads from Hyder into Alaska (where they improve some) will eat tires. Expect 1/3rd the tread life the tire you choose would normally get in that area. The roads are basically gravel glued together.

Wear long sleeve shirt/pants that mosquito's can't bite through, I wore a OR Seattle sombrero had with bug net over it and gloves and had zero issue with mosquito's as I was covered head to toe. (I'm from Maine and grew up with them, honestly didn't think Alaska was any worse and the black flies were not as bad as Northern Maine or eastern Canada but it's all dependent on when you hit peak hatch). The worst bugs were actually in North Dakota in the plains go figure.

The Dalton highway is mostly really smooth and tempts you into high speeds. I think that's it's true danger as you'll get moving at freeway speeds then potholes that can swallow a tire exist and some slick mud in areas that comes out of nowhere. If you control speed it's not a hard road at all IMO, basically a well graded dirt road that's got a layer of mud if it's wet and just takes discipline to not blaze down at high speed and get into trouble. Obviously watch out for the truckers who are trying to get work done and moving fast.

For bears, we saw a ton of them (side of the roads) but had no issues. We carried bear spray and no firearms. I'm not sure what the procedures are for carrying a handgun across Canada. I would just carry bear spray at the ready and unless you're going somewhere alone super remote not worry about them much. Some campgrounds did prohibit sleeping in tents so keep that in mind. All of them had bear boxes to put food or anything that smells good. You'll probably cross the border a half dozen times so keep that in mind if it's going to be a big hassle. Sleep in the center of campgrounds so they aren't hungry when they get to you lol.

Have a good camping kit! We all used big Agnes air matresses (they make a very small pump that can inflate them too super useful) which were quite comfortable. A tent that sets up fast and is fly first is nice if it's raining or just in general since you'll emplace/displace it 50 times on the trip. Tarptent makes some extremely fast setup tents, that's what my dad used and was always first in setup/takedown and it was fly first so everything dry inside when it's raining (Moment DW was the model).

Keep a good variety of layer's since temps will be probably freezing to 100 across the trip. I brought heated jacket/gloves which got used a few days but mainly some good down under layers and some thermals to layer up where the bulk of what got used. I don't bring a excessive amount of cloths and just wash them as I go in a dry bad that's made to wash laundry. Wool also doesn't stink so I have lots of that for under layers.

Don't sweat supplies there's stores everywhere if you forget something.

The AT is a great bike for the trip for some of the bumpy roads, honestly the roads were not bad the whole time. I did it on a Versys 650.
 
#5 ·
I did this trip a few years back with my dad and a friend (dad's 70). We camped the whole time.

We went across the USA (left from Maine/NY) through black hills, bighorn nat forest, Yellowstone then up toward Kalispell/glacier NP to the Banff, ice parkway area then we took the road to hyder and up the cassiar highway (may have spelled that wrong). We went all around the coast before going up top and back toward Maine.

Notes from the trip:

Don't underestimate how fast the roads from Hyder into Alaska (where they improve some) will eat tires. Expect 1/3rd the tread life the tire you choose would normally get in that area. The roads are basically gravel glued together.

Wear long sleeve shirt/pants that mosquito's can't bite through, I wore a OR Seattle sombrero had with bug net over it and gloves and had zero issue with mosquito's as I was covered head to toe. (I'm from Maine and grew up with them, honestly didn't think Alaska was any worse and the black flies were not as bad as Northern Maine or eastern Canada but it's all dependent on when you hit peak hatch). The worst bugs were actually in North Dakota in the plains go figure.

The Dalton highway is mostly really smooth and tempts you into high speeds. I think that's it's true danger as you'll get moving at freeway speeds then potholes that can swallow a tire exist and some slick mud in areas that comes out of nowhere. If you control speed it's not a hard road at all IMO, basically a well graded dirt road that's got a layer of mud if it's wet and just takes discipline to not blaze down at high speed and get into trouble. Obviously watch out for the truckers who are trying to get work done and moving fast.

For bears, we saw a ton of them (side of the roads) but had no issues. We carried bear spray and no firearms. I'm not sure what the procedures are for carrying a handgun across Canada. I would just carry bear spray at the ready and unless you're going somewhere alone super remote not worry about them much. Some campgrounds did prohibit sleeping in tents so keep that in mind. All of them had bear boxes to put food or anything that smells good. You'll probably cross the border a half dozen times so keep that in mind if it's going to be a big hassle. Sleep in the center of campgrounds so they aren't hungry when they get to you lol.

Have a good camping kit! We all used big Agnes air matresses (they make a very small pump that can inflate them too super useful) which were quite comfortable. A tent that sets up fast and is fly first is nice if it's raining or just in general since you'll emplace/displace it 50 times on the trip. Tarptent makes some extremely fast setup tents, that's what my dad used and was always first in setup/takedown and it was fly first so everything dry inside when it's raining (Moment DW was the model).

Keep a good variety of layer's since temps will be probably freezing to 100 across the trip. I brought heated jacket/gloves which got used a few days but mainly some good down under layers and some thermals to layer up where the bulk of what got used. I don't bring a excessive amount of cloths and just wash them as I go in a dry bad that's made to wash laundry. Wool also doesn't stink so I have lots of that for under layers.

Don't sweat supplies there's stores everywhere if you forget something.

The AT is a great bike for the trip for some of the bumpy roads, honestly the roads were not bad the whole time. I did it on a Versys 650.
Brilliant write up from your trip Lee R which brought back memories. All my advice would be generations out of date. Can't wait to see some photos if they go.
 
#6 ·
Well, I have a good Army buddy who lives in North Pole, AK (yes, there really is such a place...Google it) who shames me today because I have promised for a couple of years to stop by to see him for a few days whenever I'm "in the area" and have yet to do so. Two years ago (2021) Ol' Red & I rode the Colorado BDR...1,700 miles with most of it off road. This last year (2022) I attended the Get On ADV Fest in Sturgis, SD (won't be doing that one again). So this year I pledge to my buddy and to the Forum that I will ride Ol' Red to Dead Horse and back (OMG...did I just write that?).

Yes, I did! So here's the deal. I am going to plan a trip from my home in North Carolina to Dead Horse, Alaska. I may truck Ol' Red to a good line of departure or ride her all the way...TBD. I suspect I will be doing a lot of camping. I have all (or most of) the gear I think I will need for dry camping when needed in or out of AK. I plan to carry my 44 Mag which I think I can get through Canadian customs with the right paperwork unless the laws have become so stoopid up there that nothing gets through.

The bottom line is this: I'm not getting any younger! This is a trip I have wanted to take for a couple of years now, and the bike is capable...God willing. I have almost 60 years of riding experience. I'm an Iron Butt rider. I have been across the US (west-to-east and east-to-west) several times. I'm a US Army combat veteran: there are not too many things that worry me about long distance riding. So here's the call:

I have available almost anything I would need for camping, traveling, maintaining and surviving. What I'm looking for is good advice from folks who have ridden in areas like the Dalton Highway who might help me decide what to take and what to leave behind. Bike maintenance I'm good with. Camping in AK, I could use some help. You get the idea. Drop me a question if you're not sure how to help.

Check out this guy's instructive video about Dead Horse. Looks like I'll want to turn around ASAP:


I'm looking forward to the discussion. Thanks for everyone who takes time to comment.

Best regards,

W2
The Canadian government has recently started an almost total ban on hand guns, sales, changes of ownership, importing. You will need to check well before your trip on whether you can bring a sidearm into Canada even if just passing through to Alaska. If it is possible, you may need time to get all the necessary paperwork completed before the trip.
 
#7 ·
I’m jealous. Sounds like an adventure. If the 44 is a handgun it will be very difficult to transport it through Canada. We have three classifications for firearms. Non-restricted, restricted and prohibited. All handguns fall in the latter two categories and there are enhanced rules around storage, transport and use. Bear spray cant come across but you can at least purchase a can of that after you get over the border. If the 44 is for bear defense…I wouldn’t trust my life to that calibre and would rather have nothing
Here is the CBSA site with links to forms and procedures if you want to try. A shotgun would be a more realistic option IMHO.

some hunters will ship firearms to Alaska to pick up along the way. Might be something to look in to?
 
#28 ·
I’m jealous. Sounds like an adventure. If the 44 is a handgun it will be very difficult to transport it through Canada. We have three classifications for firearms. Non-restricted, restricted and prohibited. All handguns fall in the latter two categories and there are enhanced rules around storage, transport and use. Bear spray cant come across but you can at least purchase a can of that after you get over the border. If the 44 is for bear defense…I wouldn’t trust my life to that calibre and would rather have nothing
Here is the CBSA site with links to forms and procedures if you want to try. A shotgun would be a more realistic option IMHO.

some hunters will ship firearms to Alaska to pick up along the way. Might be something to look in to?
Thanks Butters, good info. I have been thinking about mailing it to myself at my friend's place in North Pole. I was previously familiar with the cross border requirements. Not sure how they may have changed recently after the "despots" up there pushed through the latest ban. It's the barrel length requirement that pushes one into large wheel gun territory. So yes, maybe a good can of bear spray for the Canada portion.
 
#9 ·
Well, I have a good Army buddy who lives in North Pole, AK (yes, there really is such a place...Google it) who shames me today because I have promised for a couple of years to stop by to see him for a few days whenever I'm "in the area" and have yet to do so. Two years ago (2021) Ol' Red & I rode the Colorado BDR...1,700 miles with most of it off road. This last year (2022) I attended the Get On ADV Fest in Sturgis, SD (won't be doing that one again). So this year I pledge to my buddy and to the Forum that I will ride Ol' Red to Dead Horse and back (OMG...did I just write that?).

Yes, I did! So here's the deal. I am going to plan a trip from my home in North Carolina to Dead Horse, Alaska. I may truck Ol' Red to a good line of departure or ride her all the way...TBD. I suspect I will be doing a lot of camping. I have all (or most of) the gear I think I will need for dry camping when needed in or out of AK. I plan to carry my 44 Mag which I think I can get through Canadian customs with the right paperwork unless the laws have become so stoopid up there that nothing gets through.

The bottom line is this: I'm not getting any younger! This is a trip I have wanted to take for a couple of years now, and the bike is capable...God willing. I have almost 60 years of riding experience. I'm an Iron Butt rider. I have been across the US (west-to-east and east-to-west) several times. I'm a US Army combat veteran: there are not too many things that worry me about long distance riding. So here's the call:

I have available almost anything I would need for camping, traveling, maintaining and surviving. What I'm looking for is good advice from folks who have ridden in areas like the Dalton Highway who might help me decide what to take and what to leave behind. Bike maintenance I'm good with. Camping in AK, I could use some help. You get the idea. Drop me a question if you're not sure how to help.

Check out this guy's instructive video about Dead Horse. Looks like I'll want to turn around ASAP:


I'm looking forward to the discussion. Thanks for everyone who takes time to comment.

Best regards,

W2
Sorry I can't be there but this card from my misses may help you lay out your camp?
Green Creative arts Art Triangle Craft
 
#14 ·
Planned out my trip twice and both were derailed.

Trip #1 was the result of a failed transmission on our BMW GS in Spokane, WA... before we got into Canada. It was a miserable trip home in an Uhaul Van.

Trip #2 didn't happen, as a month before the trip, I took a nasty spill off a dual-sport.... breaking my neck, back, blown out knee and various other things that took two years to recover from.

I would love to do it again, but Canada has to become more friendly. They are bat **** crazy right now and my American ass won't be found in that country.

I would more likely fly to Anchorage, rent a bike and enjoy Alaska.


For your reading pleasure......



..........
 
#15 ·
Talk about memories...

We were up in the Rockies and there was an old Moose that had fed on the lake for years near our camp. Somebody with a hunting licence decided to shoot it dead and it died in the water as it fed. Not a hard shot
FFS. We were all getting ready to go on the hill when he arrived at the tented camp to ask for our assistance to get the beast out of the water and into his pick up. I had to restrain some of the mountaineers who responded.
 
#18 ·
People from a country with a monumental gun violence problem complaining about the gun laws of a country that doesn't have that problem. Interesting. Canada's laws are mostly in line with all of the other developed country's laws except the US so it seems naive and arrogant to suggest Canada should accommodate the wishes of a minority in the outlier country especially considering the track record the US brings to the conversation.
 
#19 ·
Please don't be an idiot.... DO NOT try to take a hand gun into Canada.

And this is coming from a guy that owns a 44mag and 30 other guns.... DO NOT TRY TO DO IT.

Canada is hyper crazy about guns, especially handguns. Sure, you can figure out how to take your 7mm Mag in to hunt mountain goat.... but NOT A HANDGUN.

You are far far far better off having those high dollar micro cans of bear spray. They are about $40 a piece and legal in Canada and they will stop nearly every animal and bad human.

You don't want to land your ass in jail.

..........
 
#24 ·
Please don't be an idiot.... DO NOT try to take a hand gun into Canada.
...

You are far far far better off having those high dollar micro cans of bear spray. They are about $40 a piece and legal in Canada and they will stop nearly every animal and bad human.
...
$40 a piece? :oops:

How many cans can "do a job"? (assume mean ol' bear)
 
#31 ·
Huge yes to the Inreach. I've had one for about 7 years and it went to Alaska as well. Priceless having the ability to text no matter where you are and if you have an accident it could save your life. Cell service is spotty in many of the places on the way. Gaia app (the subscription version) has the cell service coverage area maps for each provider which is very useful as well.
 
#23 ·
Years ago, very courteously, very politely crossing into CN was asked if I owned a firearm. After hearing my response, being the third vehicle off the ferry, I was waved over and my vehicle was ransacked for an hour. What do you guess my reply will be next time?
 
#25 ·
As an Englishman I'm not supposed to know much about the Canadian wilderness but I've learned a few things on my travels.

A bear can climb a tree so don't try to seek safety there.

An enraged bear can cover 100m in 7 seconds. Don't try to outrun one. Side to side swaying head movements from a bear does not mean it wants to come and lick your hand.

Don't cook or eat in your tent. Keep your food and cooking area well away from where you sleep.

Nice to sleep near a stream (creek) but all the other animals like it too. A porcupine ate the shoulder straps and bottom of a rucksack which meant a very uncomfortable walk out of 1 week for a member of the group who thought that he was too clever to put it up a tree on a string. I had to repair it for him with para cord and he still lives in shame over the incident. Good job we weren't on our way to Telemark to blast a heavy water power plant with explosives from his rucksack.

My apologies to our brothers up there who already know this but some lessons are never learned until bitter experience prevails.
 
#32 ·
All this talk of camping makes me so jealous. Last time me and the wife camped was 5 years ago which isn't bad when you consider we are both 70 now. The kids have got all of our kit and still go with their nippers and do a bit of mountain walking/Munro bagging.

Hope you all keep us informed of your adventures.

'Up there between the sunset and the sea. Just a hill, but all of life to me'
 
#46 ·
Good luck with the trip planning and riding up here. If you pass through Alberta and are looking for off-the-beaten-path places to go send me a message. Plenty to see and do near Calgary and through the Rockies. I've been up to Eagle Plains on the Dempster and across to the westernmost parts of Alaska. You'll have plenty of time to yourself on the roads and on the way north, even in high season.

As for the inevitable 'gun debate' that every post devolves into - find out what is acceptable before you come. I can assure you that having been across Canada a few times (top to bottom and side to side), it'll be completely unnecessary and likely be a reason to be turned away at the border or have your weapon seized. Good information about practices and transportation on the RCMP's website. Also, consider what is socially acceptable while traveling in another country like ours. :) We have our friendly reputation as a country for a reason - because we are.

Hope to see you up here this summer.
 
#47 · (Edited)
As for the inevitable 'gun debate' that every post devolves into - find out what is acceptable before you come. I can assure you that having been across Canada a few times (top to bottom and side to side), it'll be completely unnecessary and likely be a reason to be turned away at the border or have your weapon seized.
This is a thoughtful reply, @superfunkomatic ... I've typically steered-clear of the "debate" but did chime-in, and my interpretation was that the OP's concern was defense against Alaskan brown bears
 
#52 ·
I am looking at that Jim. The only drawback is the cost. > $5k one way. And that is without a cabin, basically camping on deck. I haven't decided yet because I would love to see the sights. I just need to find the $$$. Still looking...
 
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#50 ·
Don't want to turn this post into a history lesson but I was told by the gaffer (Chief) that after they dusted Custer the tribe went into Canada and settled on the Big Horn Reservation.

He was a direct descendent of them and apparently they've still got some artifacts from the battle.

I suppose it's not that long ago history wise?

I'd be happy to be contradicted by any Canadians out there who live in the area of Big Horn but I'm sure that the big tuff guy must be well known locally. I'm talking about 1977 era and he must be now about 70 years old as I am.

Anyway he was a perfect gentleman to me despite the prejudice that prevailed in those days on all sides of the ocean.
 
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