Honda Africa Twin Forum banner
  • Hey everyone! Enter your ride HERE to be a part of August's Ride of the Month Challenge!
1 - 20 of 23 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
267 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
So after checking around on the forum here I see that lots of guys like the Rotella T4.

Im sticking with 10W30 per the recommendation from Honda in my DCT

My local supply store happens to stock Rotella (Very small Town) , otherwise I have to order online or go the the city to get GN4 or what ever.

This particular T4 says "Diesel", is it any different /the same as what guys are running pin bikes (im guessing it is , but I have never seen any other Rotella)?, im not sure on what the friction modifiers are in this stuff as I usually by designated motorcycle oil so I dont even have to check.

Thoughts ? If this stuff is a no go, I my just go online and find some Motul synthetic 10W30. Honda Dealer in the nearest city doesnt carry much 10W30 and tries to sell me 10W40 GN4.

63731
63732
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
267 Posts
Discussion Starter · #3 ·
OK, Got it !!

No T6 up in my neck of the woods. Ill stick to what I know. GN4 or some synthetic I can order off FortNine

Thanks DT
 
  • Like
Reactions: DoubleThumper

·
Registered
Joined
·
549 Posts
Here is a description of the JASO oil specifications for motorcycles:
  • JASO MA: This is the standard specification for oils that are used within one oil system (where the engine, gearbox and clutch use the same oil). These oils don’t contain any friction modifiers.
  • JASO MA1: This is a lower standard specification for motorcycles that require different oils for the engine, gearbox and clutch.
  • JASO MA2: This is a higher standard specification for modern motorcycles. These oils are suitable for use in motorcycles that have catalytic converters in the exhaust system.
  • JASO MB: This is a lower standard specification for scooter engines.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
351 Posts
Diesel oil generally has a higher detergent content and the lowest film strength - what keeps metal-to-metal contact in check. I would put diesel oil in my lawnmower if I bought diesel oil, but I don't...and I certainly don't put it in my 7.3 PowerStroke. There are much better oils available. Why cheap out on your engine's life blood?
 

·
Registered
2019 ATAS DCT
Joined
·
758 Posts
T4

rotella 15-40 is rated for motorcycles

rotella 10-30 is NOT rated for motorcycles

 

·
Registered
Joined
·
267 Posts
Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Thanks.

Ill stick to the GN4 or Motorbike specific stuff. Im not gambling .
 
  • Like
Reactions: Sled

·
Registered
2018 Africa Twin Adventure Sports
Joined
·
240 Posts
Why cheap out on your engine's life blood?
I have always had the same question... Trying to "save" a little money on oil never made sense to me especially when you are talking about just a few dollars for something not changed that often.

It reminds me of the guys i used to tournament bass fish with that would drop 20k on a new 225hp outboard but then run the cheapest walmart oil they could and then complain when they blow a powerhead and it costs 5k to fix. They probably "saved" $100 a year on oil which but it probably cost them the 5k. Had they run a high quality 2 cycle they probably would not have had the carbon buildup that caused the ring jacking that blew the powerhead in the first place.
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
9,717 Posts
Ah ya, I did read that - but ignored it because this is not a Harley forum. ¯\(°_o)/¯

Does any Forum member put 15W40 into their AT sump? :unsure: Seriously, would the heat of the southwest cause some members to use it (or maybe heavier)? If so, do you revert to something like 10W30 for the cold season? If so, which oil brand/tier?

@Angelo De La Fuente - is your T4 15W40?
 

·
Registered
2019 ATAS DCT
Joined
·
758 Posts
Lots of bikers have been using the 15-40 myself included. Not on the ATAS as of yet and probably never with the dct. What the original poster didn’t understand is that there are different T4 oils. One must read and understand the specs and not just assume all oils are the same.

I personally have had 2 bikes that didn’t like the T6 oil. My drz made it disappear and my tiger 800xc triggered the low oil pressure warning when hot at idle. Changed both and problems disappeared.

But you know how oil threads go.


I don’t understand this at all. Never mentioned a Harley
(Ah ya, I did read that - but ignored it because this is not a Harley forum. ¯\(°_o)/¯)
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
267 Posts
Discussion Starter · #17 ·
@fastfreddie & @JB882 My initial question has noting to do with saving a few $ on oil. It has to do with what the members have had success with and good performance from. Being as remote as I am I can buy Rotella locally, other stuff I order online. I have not mentioned saving money in my post. at 5900km I have done 3 oil changes so far all using Honda GNC and now im looking at what the good "Other" options are.
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
9,717 Posts
Lots of bikers have been using the 15-40 myself included. Not on the ATAS as of yet and probably never with the dct. What the original poster didn’t understand is that there are different T4 oils. One must read and understand the specs and not just assume all oils are the same.

I personally have had 2 bikes that didn’t like the T6 oil. My drz made it disappear and my tiger 800xc triggered the low oil pressure warning when hot at idle. Changed both and problems disappeared.

But you know how oil threads go.


I don’t understand this at all. Never mentioned a Harley
(Ah ya, I did read that - but ignored it because this is not a Harley forum. ¯\(°_o)/¯)
That is correct: I mentioned Harley. Their twins seem to get away using heftier oils. T4 15W40 would qualify, particularly for cooler seasons.

I used T6 in a liter inline-4 and found it behaved as good or better than my Motul favourites. So far the same favourable behaviour is being experienced on the DCT 1000 cc.

I have used GN4 extensively and was also looking for an alternative. Although I have never had a problem with GN4 (10W30 and 10W40), it never felt the smoothest in hot weather riding.

I would not consider Rotella T4 or T6 "cheap" oil. I believe they are high quality offerings, and some would argue the best in their class. It just may be Rotella offers fair or better value.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
351 Posts
I wasn't necessarily singling you out as a cheapskate, Straycat. My comment was more a sweeping stroke of the brush that paints the cheapskates for what they think is an acceptable practice, like they're gonna win an award for being frugal or some other ill-conceived pursuit. It will catch up to them if they hang on to the bike and that practice.
I do like that you change your oil frequently.

So ya live in the boonies and don't have a large and varied selection of locally available oils? Sounds like reason enough to put some panniers and a trunk to use by visiting a locale that has what your bike wants. ;)

Everyone wants to debunk any independent oil tester, their methods and their results, but I trust the testing I've read from this guy...
It's very comprehensive (not just about oil tests) so if you want to read it all, be prepared to don your thinking cap and put your brain in "sponge" mode. The intro is about 30 scrolled pages of text, making the Table of Contents difficult to find. I'm posting the Table of Contents for a more pleasurable reading experience.

BLOG TABLE OF CONTENTS:

Section 1 – Motor Oil “Wear Protection” Ranking List – which is determined by each oil’s film strength/load carrying capability/shear resistance psi value, that results from being subjected to a dynamic friction test under load, at a representative operating temperature. The vast majority of the oils tested here, were tested just as they come, right out of the bottle. But, there are also some oils tested with aftermarket additives put in them. These additive tests were for informational purposes only, and are not generally recommended. Because aftermarket additives can ruin an oil’s carefully formulated original additive package, aside from what it may or may not do for its wear protection capability. It is always best to choose a good performing oil in the first place, that does not need any help.

Section 2 – Motor Oil Viscosity Selection

Section 3 – Motor Oil Thermal Breakdown Test Data

Section 4 – Motor Oil component quantity Lab Test results – includes the amount of zinc, phosphorus, detergent, acid neutralizer and more

Section 5 – Reserved for future Motor Oil Test Data

Section 6 – Detailed Motor Oil and Mechanical Tech Articles
NOTE: Some of the motor oil Articles were written before the most recently tested motor oils were added to the Wear Protection Ranking List in Section 1. The articles included are:

1. I-Beam vs H-Beam – which Connecting Rod is Best?

2. Rod Bolt Strength – what do we Really need?

3. Solid Roller Lifters – Bushings vs Needles, which is Best?

4. Camshaft Overlap vs LSA (Lobe Separation Angle)

5. Leak Down Test vs Compression Test, which is Best?

6. Can you really suck the Oil Pan dry?

7. Dynamic Compression Ratio (DCR) vs Static Compression Ratio (SCR)

8. 0W40 vs 5W30 vs 0W30

9. Aftermarket Zinc Additives – Do they Work?

10. Break-In Oils – Do we Really need them?

11. Can you always count on high zinc motor oil?

12. Diesel Oil – Is it the right choice for High Performance gasoline engines?

13. Do comparable zinc levels provide comparable wear protection?

14. Does Prolong Engine Treatment actually work?

15. Test Data on the newest Pennzoils made from Natural Gas

16. High Temp Motor Oil Wear Testing – Myth vs Reality

17. Do HTHS (High-Temperature/High-Shear) values provide any useful information about wear protection capability?

18. Engineering Test Data on High Mileage Motor Oils

19. Engine Dyno HP vs Chassis Dyno HP

20. Std Volume oil pumps vs High Volume oil pumps – Is there really a HP difference?

21. Points Ignition vs Electronic Ignition

22. How to choose your own Camshaft

23. Multi-viscosity motor oils are not exactly what some people think

24. Air conditioning isn’t just for cooling your vehicle

25. Recommended Oil Change Interval – For Automobiles “AND” Motorcycles, including Motor Oil Age Info

26. Failure Data from a Bushing type Solid Roller Lifter

27. Maximum Safe Piston Speed Redline

28. Eight 0W20 Oils Tested and Compared

29. Eliminating BMW M3/M5 Rod Bearing Failures

30. Five Lightweight Diesel Oils Tested and Compared

31. The Truth about Motor Oil Temperature and Wear Protection Capability

32. V-8 Head/Intake Alignment Procedure

33. Can Wet Clutch Motorcycles use “FAR SUPERIOR” Automotive Motor Oils?

34. How well do Traditional Heavy Duty Diesel oils perform, when they have the latest CK-4 certification?

35. PISTON TO CYLINDER CLEARANCE IS “NOT” WHAT MANY PEOPLE THINK IT IS

36. Is Motor Oil Viscosity Index (VI) Useful Information?

37. Air Cooled Engines – Oil Viscosity Recommendation

38. The meaning of API SN “PLUS”, and GM dexos1-“Gen 2”, AND Problems with “Direct Injection Only” Engines

39. Which Motor Oil is best, 5W30 or 10W30?

40. Can the sound of a Failing Wheel Bearing, actually be SOMETHING ELSE?”

41. Why do some OEM’s call for super thick motor oil in only “Certain” versions of a particular engine?

42. Should a MAF (Mass Air Flow) Sensor screen be left in or taken out?

43. Keeping the Battery properly charged in Modern Computer Controlled Vehicles that sit much of the time

44. Which Motor Oil is best, 5W20 or 5W30?

45. Is it harmful to only occasionally run an engine, due to residual oil runoff causing excessive cold start-up wear?

46. Are Auto Manufacturer Advertised HP numbers accurate?

47. Can vehicles that call for 87 octane regular gasoline, benefit from switching to higher octane premium?

48. Can street vehicle performance be increased by switching to a low restriction K&N air filter?

49. 35 Oil Filters cut open, from 21 different Brands, compared and evaluated for manufacturer commonality, quality of design, quality of construction, and ranked from Best to Worst

50. What is the “BEST” way to warm-up a stone-cold engine? Plus, what is the “BEST” way to help prevent engine sludge?

51. The most common form of Severe/Extreme Engine Operation that most people aren’t aware of

52. General Motor Oil Selection Recommendations for Various Applications

53. Are vehicles that call for 0W16 Motor Oil, well protected with such thin oil?

54. The Best Way to ensure proper lubrication of classic flat tappet cams, in engines that sit for extended periods of time. And how those cams are actually lubricated.

55. Automotive and Motorcycle Gear Oil/Transmission Oil Test Data

56. PSI Value is NOT the only thing to consider when Selecting the Best Motor Oil

57. High Tech Car Wax is NOT as great as expected

58. There is MORE to Acceleration Performance than just Horsepower

59. Why does 540 RAT “NOT” use an ASTM Test Procedure as the basis for his Engineering Test on Motor Oil?

60. Test Data on the new 5W30 API SP/ILSAC GF-6A Motor Oils

61. Test Data on Marine 4-Stroke Boat Engine Motor Oils

Happy reading!
 

·
Registered
2018 Africa Twin Adventure Sports
Joined
·
240 Posts
And in my case i went under the assumption that it was a cost factor because 99% of the time that is the underlying reason when you read about Rotella in a motorcycle. It is especially prevalent on another forum i visit. A discussion about Rotella pops up and its always followed by "motorcycle oil is too expensive because its $.50 a quart more" or whatever. The killer is the bike in question on that forum only uses one quart per change and most only do it annually or a couple times a year at most. They are talking tens of dollars over the life of the bike and quite a few folks over there have made the mistake of putting T5 in their bike thinking all Rotella is the same and ended up trashing the clutch. That mistake cost them 300 in clutch parts, an expensive lesson if you ask me. There are a few that suggest only put in oil that has a picture of a motorcycle on the bottle and its pretty solid advice....

When it comes to the AT here is my personal opinion since you are looking for a specific brand recommendation. I like synthetic oil in my bikes, and that extends to everything i own. I am also a BIG fan of Amsoil synthetics for a lot of reasons. I have been using their products for a really long time. Everything i have ever put this brand of oil in has performed well and has lasted a really long time. They make a good product, its that simple. Not saying others are bad, just that this brand has proven itself to me.

What i am running in my AT is Amsoil 10w30 metric motorcycle oil. Its the weight Honda calls for and it fits all other required specs. Cost wise its about the same per quart as Honda HP4S. Have i noticed any improvements in the bike? Yes, mine being a manual i instantly noticed it shifts a lot better. Much smother than it ever did before, even after the dealer changed the oil at 600 with fresh GN4 it did not shift nearly this smooth. The clutch also feels better to me, smoother with a more consistent action and less grabby feel. I run this oil in my wife's NC700X as well and same thing there, much better shifting and a better feeling clutch.
 
1 - 20 of 23 Posts
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top