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Discussion Starter #1
How to stop this? I have the leak at the stator grommet I need to address anyway. Oil is showing up at the stator wire plug into the rectifier. I've googled this and many brands suffer this fate it appears. I guess Honda didn't seal the ends of the wires inside the stator cover and over time the oil wicks up the wire and exits at the stator plug connection. Kind of bizarre i know. I would like to stop it because I do not think this is good for the rectifier over time.
 

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How to stop this? I have the leak at the stator grommet I need to address anyway. Oil is showing up at the stator wire plug into the rectifier. I've googled this and many brands suffer this fate it appears. I guess Honda didn't seal the ends of the wires inside the stator cover and over time the oil wicks up the wire and exits at the stator plug connection. Kind of bizarre i know. I would like to stop it because I do not think this is good for the rectifier over time.
The immediate and naive thought that immediately comes to mind is:
  • Access the source end of the cable.
  • Detach and clean-up the end.
  • Solder the affected braided wire so to stop the wicking effect up into the conductor strands.
  • Follow this up by an application of heat-resistant epoxy around the conductor sheath end and the wire itself. This prevents oil from getting between the sheath and conductor, bypassing the soldered braided fix and resume the wicking behaviour along the remaining length of the cable.
In theory, that should stop the wicking behaviour. However, will oil now drip when it hits this interface?

Alternative thought:
  • Strip away about 1/4 to 1/2 inch of sheath not far from the source connector.
  • Solder the conductor so all braided strands are bonded.
  • Dip the entire 1/4 to 1/2 inch unsheathed area in heat-resistance (oil resistant) epoxy.
  • Consider wrapping the section in electrical tape or similar protection.
This too, in theory (??) could plug the wicking of oil by way of the internal cable conductors.
 

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I've got the same issue here I think. Talked to the guys at my local dealer. The fix is to pull the stator cover off, clean it up good, and install it with hondabond 4. Mine is weeping in places other than the stator grommet as well. Im just waiting for my next oil change to do it. I believe (ill have to have it apart to see) but hope I can seal the grommet in the process. Ill most likely be tackling this in the next few weeks and will report back if you haven't done it yet.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
I guess I will need to address this sooner than later. Waiting for next oil change to address it. I may go and check the valves while at it. It is over the first check about 1500 miles.
 

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Took off the stator cover today to deal with my oil leaks. The wires are molded into the rubber block. I dont really see how any wicking can occur. There was no sealant of any kind surrounding the block, so I used silicone to seal it in place.

56562



Buttoning it up now. Ill report back if its solved. Wanted to make the switch to synthetic oil, but wanted leaks addressed first. Honda dealership was surprised when I told them it was leaking......but Hondas don't leak....lmao.
 

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Took off the stator cover today to deal with my oil leaks. The wires are molded into the rubber block. I dont really see how any wicking can occur. There was no sealant of any kind surrounding the block, so I used silicone to seal it in place.

View attachment 56562


Buttoning it up now. Ill report back if its solved. Wanted to make the switch to synthetic oil, but wanted leaks addressed first. Honda dealership was surprised when I told them it was leaking......but Hondas don't leak....lmao.
I thought somebody mentioned the reasoning was because oil was being wicked within the braided copper conductors themselves, and hence, inside the yellow sheath. Not the case?

I can imagine the copper strands being somewhat efficient at wicking.

If that is the case, one almost has to "dip" the open end of the copper strand at the sheath interface in wax or epoxy to halt oil from migrating under the sheath and within the copper strands.
 

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I thought somebody mentioned the reasoning was because oil was being wicked within the braided copper conductors themselves, and hence, inside the yellow sheath. Not the case?

I can imagine the copper strands being somewhat efficient at wicking.

If that is the case, one almost has to "dip" the open end of the copper strand at the sheath interface in wax or epoxy to halt oil from migrating under the sheath and within the copper strands.
I dunno. That's above my pay grade. I suppose it's possible. Theres a long insulated sheath that holds the wires...couple inches long coming out of the block. If oil was exiting there (mine was not), then I'd definitely say its wicking through. I guess I would probably just live with that if that was the case.

Mine was leaking in several spots along the case and around that block. I could see where there wasn't any liquid gasket material in several spots.

Looks to be nice and dry so far.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
I need to get on mine and get it fixed I am still collecting oil in the rectifier plug coming from the stator coil. I have not rode the AT in a while except one or two times since posting up on this. I bought a Tenere 700 and I have been riding it more often than the AT. It is very humid and hot locally so I may wait until it cools down a bit to tackle it.

@Amphib did you completely remove the wiring harness from the bike per the service manual said do or just pull the cover and work with it off to the side then reinstall? Seems to me the harness is long enough to not have to fish that harness wire off the entire bike just to reseal the cover and stick it back on.
 

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I need to get on mine and get it fixed I am still collecting oil in the rectifier plug coming from the stator coil. I have not rode the AT in a while except one or two times since posting up on this. I bought a Tenere 700 and I have been riding it more often than the AT. It is very humid and hot locally so I may wait until it cools down a bit to tackle it.

@Amphib did you completely remove the wiring harness from the bike per the service manual said do or just pull the cover and work with it off to the side then reinstall? Seems to me the harness is long enough to not have to fish that harness wire off the entire bike just to reseal the cover and stick it back on.
Yeah I wasn't going through the trouble of disconnecting the wires. Its plenty long enough to work with on the ground which is where I cleaned it, removing all the old gasket material. Applying the hondabond, I set it on a 5 gal bucket which was perfect height....(i don't have a lift). Easy job. Nothing to be intimidated over. Breaking it loose was the hardest part because I didn't know what to expect. It took a lot of force. Not because of the magnet, but because of the gasket material. I tried a razor blade, but I don't think it did much because its a tight fit.

There's a few...i think 4 little tabs around the cover. You'll know what I mean when you examine it. I was able to pry with a long screwdriver, protected with a little piece of plastic against crash bar points. It finally came loose applying gradually more pressure......didn't know at what point I may break something.

A gear came off with an alignment pin. No big deal, slid it back on. I was being anally clean and it was difficult keeping all that gasket material from getting inside the cover. I ended up rinsing in with mineral spirits. Hollar if you run into any problems.

Now, I wanna hear all about this new bike! Pics of course as well. 🙂
 

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Discussion Starter #11
@Amphib thanks for the detailed instructions. I’ve removed stator covers on Suzuki racebikes in the past so I kinda know what I’m heading into. Not much background with Honda’s however.

Yes the new bike is something else. Very much worth the 4 year wait time. Size fits me perfectly on it. Here are a few pics along the way as I’ve added quite a few items to it by now.
D84FCB8C-3AE3-4C56-A483-911FE3F5EC80.jpeg
16898CB5-72BC-45E1-814C-F51F06BC0FFD.jpeg
 
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