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So my bike is a paper weight now. I went into the bank and came out and it wouldn't go into drive. I turned it on and off a few times and got it into drive and got home and now I started it in the garage and it won't go into anything. There's just a little line that flashes ware the gear indicator is. I tried the dct reset but it won't go into N so it won't initiate the reset. I also tried the kickstand sensor. Didn't do anything. I did notice that before I went into the bank at the stoplight out front there was a very very faint, sporadic ticking coming from the left side of the motor. I checked all the fuses, checked as many connections as I could see. I have an extended warranty but almost every shop in my area is booked up for over a month just to look at it. It drove to work fine, I park in the shade out front. Lately it's been doing weird things when I start it just like starting differently everytime. Sometimes it's like a weak faint start up and sometimes it's more robust if that makes any sense. It's also shifted from N into D pretty hard since I got it but I figured it was normal. Earlier I was able to get it to initiate the dct reset one time but the D and S lights stayed on for over a few minutes so I just turned it off and turned it on and same things still. Won't go into drive won't do anything. I knew I shouldn't have gotten the stupid dct version. So come on guys what wire do I need to jiggle to fix this. Haha!! 馃お
 

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Well actually I started thinking about it and when I bought my bike i had to wait like 2 hours while they charged the battery. The dealer told me that usually they have a guy who goes around to every bike and connects a battery tender to all the bikes every few days but because of covid they had to let him go. Any time my motorcycle battery died on other bikes for to long they would never come back to life so I decided to go and get my battery tested just now and it read "bad battery 60%" on the machine. I went next door to the other shop just incase and same reading. So I'm going to buy a new one tomorrow. Both places were out of stock. I bought a full coverege extended warranty when I got the bike so I'm not quite shitting bricks yet...
So why do you ask? Is a weak battery a possible cause for the dct to not function properly?
 

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@Beowulf is correct. The DCT has additional electrical loads due to servos and the like. If the logic and/or sensors "brown out" due to a weak battery under load, bad behavior may be experienced. This is somewhat of an early warning of possible time to replace the battery. This is not profound. Standard modern bikes misbehave just prior to total battery failure. It is up to the rider to identify this and act upon first warning.

60%? Definitely replace the battery.
 

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So it's not that the bike is a 'paper weight' just that the battery is dead. Easily remedied and really is one of the first places to check if your bike won't start - fuel or fire/electricity. Pop a new battery in and you'll be back in business, right?(y)
 
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Alright so battery mart had a battery in stock for 85$ and....... It would seem as though the new battery solved the problem. Iv never owned anything that displayed such terrifying behavior from a dieing battery! I seriously thought the dct had a major malfunction.
 

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So, now are you going to sell your "stupid dct version"?
Scott
 
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Alright so battery mart had a battery in stock for 85$ and....... It would seem as though the new battery solved the problem. Iv never owned anything that displayed such terrifying behavior from a dieing battery! I seriously thought the dct had a major malfunction.
12 volt batteries quite commonly give no warning at all when they are about to fail. What you experienced is the DCT's warning the battery may be about to leave you stranded. Most often the battery failure does not show up until the next start fails.
 

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I knew I shouldn't have gotten the stupid dct version.
Time to take back the DCT insult? LOL
IMO, a bad battery will cause problems on any modern motorcycle with electronic sensors and what not.
The little extra draw by DCT is like an ant pissing into Lake Victoria, so why the grief?
 

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Granted, the big fail with a weak battery and the DCT is you cannot bump start the engine. Going to miss that option.
 

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Time to take back the DCT insult? LOL
IMO, a bad battery will cause problems on any modern motorcycle with electronic sensors and what not.
The little extra draw by DCT is like an ant pissing into Lake Victoria, so why the grief?
Haha yeah I absolutely take it back. But because it can be so critical I just wish honda had a dash board light to Indicate that the battery is getting weak. The bike would start up and everything but just wouldn't go into any gear. Now that it happened I know what to look for but its very easy to mistake for a major dct malfunction of some kind.
 

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So, now are you going to sell your "stupid dct version"?
Scott
Haha! No... I love it. But I was seriously worried there for a minute after only having it for about 2 months. now I know the symptoms to look out for to replace the battery. Aside from this small glitch I love the dct.
 

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So after some riding I can say the problem is 100% resolved by the new battery. Infact it shifts smoother than it ever did. Starts the same every time unlike before ware towards the end it would start weird. So I would like to apologize to my bike and all the dct owners out there and honda for the rude words. It's not stupid but it did have me biting my nails for a minute. Especially when I called around and heard how long the wait lists were in the service departments out here in so cal.
 

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No biggie. We've all had our moments with our machines. So far, knock on my wooden head, I've owned my '18 AT/AS DCT now for about 4 months and, it's been an outstanding machine. I've added the McCruise, Camel Toe kick stand and, a brand new Garmin Zumo XT. Oh, and a nice rack and back rest. And that bike is such a pleasure to ride.
Scott
 

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Haha yeah I absolutely take it back. But because it can be so critical I just wish honda had a dash board light to Indicate that the battery is getting weak. The bike would start up and everything but just wouldn't go into any gear. Now that it happened I know what to look for but its very easy to mistake for a major dct malfunction of some kind.
For that very reason, I plugged one of these in the 12v socket that I wired up: Should let you know if it gets below 12.3 v or so. Should be about 12.5 v on a healthy battery when you kick the key on, before starting.

Voltmeter USB plug

This is the 12 v socket I used, since I was way too lazy to put the factory socket in.

12 v socket kit

BTW, I like your videos.
 

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As an aside - there are battery chargers that can almost always rescue a supposedly failed battery (Not the new LiON ones though). Mine is called an Accumate Pro and although it's about 15 years old it has recently rescued two boat leisure batteries that had dropped to under 2 volts. It has some kind of algorithm that pulses the battery and (I think) causes sulphate to drop off the damaged electrodes. My co-boat owner was blown away as we thought we were going to need to spend a couple of hundred quid. At first I told him that the rescue may only be temporary as whilst it can get the charged battery voltage back up to 12.8v, it would probably reduce the amp hours or the cranking amps that the battery could deliver. But it hasn't. And I now can't find anything on the internet that says the batteries are now in any way poorer.
So I then took a 12 volt toyota battery that had been sitting in my garage for about 8 years because I'd taken it off a car when it seemed to be failing. (I don't think this registered any voltage at all on the multimeter). After about 3 days of being connected to the Accumate, I thought it was obviously a goner as the accumate repeatedly cycled through its algorithm. so imagine my surprise on day 5 when I noticed a green light on the accumate saying everything was now hunky dory. And it was and it is, and now that battery sits fully charged as a spare jump start battery for any of me or my kids vehicles.
And a final plug for Accumate - when it went wrong through damp in my garage after I'd owned it for over 3 or 4 years, they fixed it for free for me. Unbelievable.
Mike
 

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I think the biggest indicator of a near-death battery, whether lead-acid or lithium type, will be the voltage droop upon engine start. If the droop falls below your typical (e.g. below ~11V while starting, or something like that. It is like a load test.) then you know the end is neigh. Static and engine generation voltage is not an adequate measure.
 
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