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My AT manual shift PGM-FI light suddenly came on at around 750 miles. I believe I have corrected the problem (pinched O2 Sensor leads during Crash Bar installation). The fault code however, is locked in and the light remains on. I disconnected the battery for several hours without success. Does anybody know how to reset the lamp without a service tool? Thanks in Advance, Dingo
 

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All stop!!! I was able to figure it out by piecing together parts of other Non-Africa Twin forums and a little diagnosis. Codes can be obtained without a specialized Honda scan tool by shorting the data lead to ground on the Data Link Connector (DLC) under the seat. A connector can be ordered from Honda (Part 070PZ-ZY30100) to perform the connection for about $20 or you can do it with a piece of wire if you aren't afraid. Shorting the incorrect wires will either put full system voltage into your serial data lead or create a dead short between (+) and chassis ground. Proceed at your own risk if you choose to follow my instructions.

The methods I describe will allow you to pull the fault code from the ECU as well as clear to fault from memory. First you have to locate DLC under the seat. It is a red 4 pin connector with a weather cap on the right side just under the passenger seat.

The 2 wires you want to short together are the blue-white and blue-green ones. One is the chassis ground and the other is the serial line from the ECU. You can verify this with a meter. Checking the ground connection is obvious, but the serial lead should have around 4-5 vdc on it with the kill switch and key in the on position.

To check the fuel injection fault codes you will observe the blinking Malfunction Indicator Lamp (MIL). Start by turning the ignition switch to the OFF position. Remove the dummy connector from the DLC. Short the 2 discussed wires of the DLC. Turn the ignition switch ON and the engine stop switch to RUN. If the ECM has any a fault code in its memory, the MIL will start blinking. The MIL blinks indicate the fault code.

The MIL has two types of blinks, a long blink and short blink. The long blink lasts for 1.3 seconds; the short blink lasts for 0.3 seconds. The long blinks are the 1st digit in the code and the short blinks are the 2nd digit. For example, when 2 long blinks are followed by 1 short blink, the fault code is 21 (O2 Sensor). When the ECM stores more than one fault code, the MIL will express the fault codes in order from the smallest numbered code to the largest numbered code. The blinks will then repeat until you remove the jumper or turn off the key/kill switch.

You will have to get the fault code table from the Service Manual or Web. It is too long to post here.

Complete the following process to erase the fault codes. Start by turning the ignition switch to the OFF position. Short the indicated wires of the DLC. Turn the ignition switch ON and the engine stop switch to RUN. Remove the special tool to disconnect the jump. The MIL will light for approximately 5 seconds. While the MIL lights, short the DLC terminals again. The self-diagnostic memory is erased if the MIL goes off and then starts blinking. I had to repeat this a couple times to get the timing right. Good luck. I hope this helps someone down the road.
 

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Used the reset method you mentioned and it worked!!! Thnx for doing the research and sharing here. I changed my tires and had the eng light come on due to a problem with the ABS during mounting of the rear tire which caused some chafing on the caliper. I adjusted my error and reset the light and everything if GTG! Saved me some money thnx lots
 

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No dice here. And it's the ABS light that blinks, not the the Engine light. I have the Traction control light as well as the ABS light remaining on after I changed my tires. And yes the wheels are installed correctly with the pulser ring on the proper side. Got anything?
 

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No dice here. And it's the ABS light that blinks, not the the Engine light. I have the Traction control light as well as the ABS light remaining on after I changed my tires. And yes the wheels are installed correctly with the pulser ring on the proper side. Got anything?
You put he rear wheel spacers on the wrong sides. swap them. The one with the lip goes on the left side of the rim if you're standing behind the bike....Lights should go off after you ride it a foot or two.
 

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This may help : ECU update..
Got in with my OBD2 scanner.. Didn’t really feel like jumping wires, the scanner picked up a few sensors and the stored trouble codes, that I erased..
 

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I've just had the light come on at 180 miles from new. No apparent cause but disconnecting the battery seems to have sorted it, I'll be mentioning it to the dealer.
 

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The AT is made so that disconnecting the battery does nothing
other than make you reset the clock on the dash.
If you know otherwise, please post;
I like to be proven wrong :)
 

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The AT is made so that disconnecting the battery does nothing
other than make you reset the clock on the dash.
If you know otherwise, please post;
I like to be proven wrong :)
IF the fault corrects itself or is corrected the ECU will turn off the “check engine” light. But the code will still remain in memory until accessed and erased from the memory. At least on non major trouble codes.
 

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I've just had the light come on at 180 miles from new. No apparent cause but disconnecting the battery seems to have sorted it, I'll be mentioning it to the dealer.
Did you have the seat off?
If the seat is off and or not locked the “check engine” light will come on...
 

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there may be models of yesteryears that actually "reset" something in the bike electrical system
when you disconnect the battery; but the AT is not it.

This is how the Service Manual reads (4-6)
[QUOTE="
ERASING STORED DTC
• The stored DTC can not be erased by simply disconnecting the battery negative (–) cable.
Erase the DTC with the MCS while the engine is stopped.
[/QUOTE]
 

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My 18ATAS does it, freaked me out, had the seat off and started it up and the engine light came on. I was like WTH? Why is that on, put the seat on to take it for a spin and light didn’t come on when I started it..... Hmmmm,? So I unlatch the seat, light comes on, now I know. Story ends with a huge sigh of relief....
 

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My 18ATAS does it, freaked me out, had the seat off and started it up and the engine light came on. I was like WTH? Why is that on, put the seat on to take it for a spin and light didn’t come on when I started it..... Hmmmm,? So I unlatch the seat, light comes on, now I know. Story ends with a huge sigh of relief....
Certainly an undocumented feature :)

Why would Honda choose to light up the CEL for a missing seat?
 

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Certainly an undocumented feature :)

Why would Honda choose to light up the CEL for a missing seat?
More for the fact that it isn’t latched/locked in properly, then the seat is gone. Definitely a safety issue, you think your seat is locked in when it’s not. Imagine flying down a bumpy trail and your seat bounces off or when your knees are locked to it holding you on the bike.
 

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I believe it is a useful, although a misinformed feature. Should be glad its there. Imagine your car door is ajar and the engine light comes on?
It's not a feature. But you're correct someone is misinformed, lol

To get back onto the main topic: PGM-FI indicator (MIL)
comes on when you turn ignition key on. Should go off in a few sec.

- if it stays on, you have a problem and as the OP said in the first post; if you know exactly what caused it to stay on
you can erase it as he outlined.
If it repeatedly comes on, you still have another, potentially serious problem.

53743
 

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I'd had the seat off the day before so maybe, I want the fault code (if any) to be there for the dealer to check when it goes for first service, seems ok now
 

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I'd had the seat off the day before so maybe, I want the fault code (if any) to be there for the dealer to check when it goes for first service, seems ok now
BTW about the codes and reading them, see my post on my OBD2 scanners..
 
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