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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Thank you Honda
 

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The whole battery position and cabling set up is laughable really, considering it's a dual purpose adventure bike that will more than likely have multiple devices connected that will need power. They could have put a bit more thought into ease of access to the battery. My fireblade had a more accessible battery than the AT.
 

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Having connected the Eastern Beaver PC8 power unit, I'm glad I won't have to get in there again for a while. It almost looks like a mistake in cable length. It is just long enough to get in there but not enough to move anything or get tools or your hands in there to hook it back up. I think when I replace the battery (hopefully in years) I'll cut and splice on longer cable for the ends.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 · (Edited)
If you look carefully at the visible end of that 'detachable carrying case' there is a place to channel the wire but the wire's not long enough to follow this path. I agree on the splice and unfortunately I suck soldering. The smart thing to do is cut the wire about 1 1/2 back from where it ties in the metal clamp, that way you just need to add 3 inches of cable and 2 solders then tape solders. I can use a length of copper from one of my retired bikes and splice it in. Will copper solder to that silver braid they use? I think it will. Probably should add the power unit at the same time
 

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If you look carefully at the visible end of that 'detachable carrying case' there is a place to channel the wire but the wire's not long enough to follow this path. I agree on the splice and unfortunately I suck soldering. The smart thing to do is cut the wire about 1 1/2 back from where it ties in the metal clamp, that way you just need to add 3 inches of cable and 2 solders then tape solders. I can use a length of copper from one of my retired bikes and splice it in. Will copper solder to that silver braid they use? I think it will. Probably should add the power unit at the same time
I wouldnt be splicing in extra cable on the main battery cable for various reasons, I would just replace the whole cable with one of a suitable length, this would be more reliable with lower resistance for less voltage drop & better starting
 

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I installed a fuzeblock FZ1 under the seat that I had previously installed in and removed from my old Vstrom. Ran just one pair of 10 gauge power leads from the battery terminals and a 12v switched signal from the red diagnostic connector under the seat. All accessories get wired and independently fused from the FZ1, and you can configure each output for whether the power is constant or key switched by where you insert the fuses.

I currently have wired in an extended length battery tender cable that runs up to the ignition switch area. I use that cable to power my tank bag, run a 12v mini compressor, and tend the battery. Another FZ1 fuse goes to my zumo GPS. Those two are hot at all times as I don’t like the GPS to be switched off with the bike.

For switched circuits I have a pigtail for my heated gear (jacket liner and gloves), Oxford heated grips, and a dash mounted Datel digital voltmeter for monitoring battery charge with all of the heated stuff running.

I still have one more output available but don’t have any more farkles needing power (yet)

The battery cable was long enough that I could make the 10 gauge + connection with the battery slid out part way, then slide it in fully and make the negative connection at the frame. Personally, I think it was a clever way to install the relatively heavy battery a bit lower down in the chassis.
 
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