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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi all

Apologies for parading my ignorance as a newbie and if this topic is covered elsewhere in the forums. Looking online I see some people fit the Aussie Eastern Beaver Power Centre 8 to their AT. BMW owners seem have some wider options, one example being the Hex Ezcan. Given the number of Honda motorcycles on the planet, I expected my research to find loads of fuse panel options for the AT, this seems however not to be the case. One that could connect to the AT electrical system using existing loom plugs, rather than simply connecting to battery, would be useful. Of course it may well be that the AT has no such electrical infrastructure to connect to. One would also have thought that Honda has OEM options for adding electrical accessories.

As these devices are relatively simple to manufacture, can anyone please educate me on other accessory fuse panel options that are available for the AT.

A big thank you from me!
 

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Hi all

Apologies for parading my ignorance as a newbie and if this topic is covered elsewhere in the forums. Looking online I see some people fit the Aussie Eastern Beaver Power Centre 8 to their AT. BMW owners seem have some wider options, one example being the Hex Ezcan. Given the number of Honda motorcycles on the planet, I expected my research to find loads of fuse panel options for the AT, this seems however not to be the case. One that could connect to the AT electrical system using existing loom plugs, rather than simply connecting to battery, would be useful. Of course it may well be that the AT has no such electrical infrastructure to connect to. One would also have thought that Honda has OEM options for adding electrical accessories.

As these devices are relatively simple to manufacture, can anyone please educate me on other accessory fuse panel options that are available for the AT.

A big thank you from me!
Hi Ray,
If you use the search function and type in Eastern Beaver or PDM60 you'll find loads of information on the topic, in quite some detail.
The Eastern Beaver pc8 for example does connect to the existing loom plug under the seat, but still needs to be connected to the battery for power. I believe the loom plug just allows you to get switched and unswitched power. You also wouldn't want too many accessories wired only to the original loom because the wiring might not be able to take the load. (for example if you plug a compressor to the oem 12v socket connected to the front option connector, you might blow the 7.5A fuse, as has happened to some people).
I went for the Eastern Beaver 3CS with some splitters, and this should suffice for my needs. But the EB products seem very good quality and the tons of reviews on here of the same are proof of that. Easy access, easy connections and easy fuse changes are the main benefits.
Search the forum and have a read, you'll get much more detail
 
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Hi Ray, I originally fitted a Denali power hub but this unit failed and in my view was a waste of money, poor manufacture quality and poor design. I replaced it with a PDM60 which, for not a lot more money, is a far superior unit. Its solid state, so doesn't use blade fuses and is programmable so you can set permanent or switched feed, trip load, delay start up and delay power down for each of the 6 output circuits. You run a +ve to the battery and -ve to either the battery or solid frame ground point and I then ran a switched live from the aux socket down the left side of the bike. Very happy with this unit which is very rugged, water and dust proof and according to the fitting instructions can be fitted anywhere on the bike. Hope this is of help.


http://www.rowe-electronics.com/wp-...-Installation-and-Operation-Manual-052213.pdf
 

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Ray: Eastern Beaver PC8 here with the charger circuit and a dual usb charge station on un-switched circuits and Coax for heated gear and gps on switched circuits, with 4 switched available for future use. Very happy with it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
This great feedback is very useful to me. I still have to get to grips with both searching the forum and my AT. I think it's fantastic that guys like you are willing to share your knowledge and experience, you make this forum very worthwhile. Another observation as someone who has been away from biking for some years is just what a great bunch of people motorcyclists are.

Thanks again guys, much appreciated.
 

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The Eastern Beaver PC8 is a really good kit. I've had it on several bikes and my AT. It plugs right into the socket under the seat and you can start wiring your accessories. I can't recommend it enough.
 
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+1 on the Eastern Beaver PC8. Well thought out and executed and results in a tidy installation under the seat.
 

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The PC8 is a good option; well made and flexible for different configurations.

In addition to the switched/unswitched dedicated connectors, I have set up a direct link from an external SAE connector through the PC8 to the battery to allow starting my DCT from a external Arteck battery.

The underseat space is busy, see photos. The finned transformer boosts the voltage from 12 to 18 for my Koso Apollo heated grips. There is a Skeene aux light dimmer in there somewhere. A McCruise controller fills the rear under-seat space.

I found a source for factory style cable snap connectors. The heat shrink connectors with solder make for tidy and reliable splices.
 

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This great feedback is very useful to me. I still have to get to grips with both searching the forum and my AT. I think it's fantastic that guys like you are willing to share your knowledge and experience, you make this forum very worthwhile. Another observation as someone who has been away from biking for some years is just what a great bunch of people motorcyclists are.

Thanks again guys, much appreciated.
do bear in mind that the bike has two switched power sources. one under the seat and the other within the front fairing - both ready to use.

Also.. I believe the Easter Beaver gadget is from Japan.

I do understand why people fit them.. but for me and my purposes its unnecessary. I do intend at some point fitting an "always live" DIN socket.. as used by BMW to the side of the bike... for easy/direct connection of a battery charger and also to power my tyre compressor without need for the bike to be switched on. It will also make a useful connection point for the heated clothing that I intend buying for next winter. My sat nav is currently connected to the previously mentioned front fairlng socket. the socket under the seat remains unused at present. And my bike also has the switched 'lighter' socket on the dashboard.
 

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The PC8 is a good option; well made and flexible for different configurations.

In addition to the switched/unswitched dedicated connectors, I have set up a direct link from an external SAE connector through the PC8 to the battery to allow starting my DCT from a external Arteck battery.

The underseat space is busy, see photos. The finned transformer boosts the voltage from 12 to 18 for my Koso Apollo heated grips. There is a Skeene aux light dimmer in there somewhere. A McCruise controller fills the rear under-seat space.

I found a source for factory style cable snap connectors. The heat shrink connectors with solder make for tidy and reliable splices.
Jesus I hope you never have to take that all out for some reason!

I've been playing around with soldering to get some practice before adding my accessories. Is it normal that the soldered length of wire becomes very hard and inflexible, or am I doing something wrong? Thanks
 

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When you solder a stranded wire the portion of the wire that "soaks" up the solder does become quite ridged because the strands can no longer slide by each other. Perhaps you are getting to great of length of wire hot and it is giving you a longer joint than you need.
 

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Thanks for confirming that VFM. I’ve been keeping the solder on the joint area but been making them long in order to practice, so guess that explains it. Will keep it short on real projects to maintain maximum flexibility.
Thanks again
 

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Soldering - yes it is essential to "tin" the wire end before joining it to a solid connection point or another wire. Just an 1/8 inch on the end. If you are joining two wires, even different gauges, you should cover the exposed wire with a heat shrink case (remember to pre-fit the sleeve!). I find that the self-soldering heat shrink connectors do not require tinning of the exposed ends and provide a strong, waterproof and reliable splice. Quicker than soldering, only a heat gun and wire stripper required.
 

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I used a FUZEBLOCK from nippy normans

https://www.nippynormans.com/f650st-f650cs-f650gs-f650-dakar/fuzeblock-switchable-fuse-panel



Was very easy to install i have zero electrical ability ... and u can get the switched live connector from the existing fusepanel. I used the wiring kit as well which came with a posi-tap which means no wire stripping no soldering ... works a treat


So far have the heated glove tender and will add battery and pump tails shortly
 

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I used a FUZEBLOCK from nippy normans

https://www.nippynormans.com/f650st-f650cs-f650gs-f650-dakar/fuzeblock-switchable-fuse-panel



Was very easy to install i have zero electrical ability ... and u can get the switched live connector from the existing fusepanel. I used the wiring kit as well which came with a posi-tap which means no wire stripping no soldering ... works a treat
I bought one of these too, a far easier and cheaper UK next day delivery purchase than ordering Eastern Beaver kit from Japan - the costs and customs/tax issues put me off.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Did you use the Honda ignition plug under the passenger seat for the ignition live or a quick and dirty scotch-like like connection. If you did you the OEM plus what is the plug connecter spec?

Thanks and regards
 

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Did you use the Honda ignition plug under the passenger seat for the ignition live or a quick and dirty scotch-like like connection. If you did you the OEM plus what is the plug connecter spec?

Thanks and regards

I think it's a Sumitomo Sealed HM090 6pin waterproof connector. If you go on the Eastern Beaver website, and read the pages for the Africa Twin, you'll get all the details about the various connectors and can then order elsewhere or from him if necessary. https://easternbeaver.com/Main/Bike_Specific/Honda_CRF1000L/honda_crf1000l.html


I don't yet trust my wiring skills enough yet (at least for my pride and joy, which I prefer to keep from blowing up) which is why I'm happy with the EB 3CS kit and I even bought some extensions and splitters so the wires I'll run to the front fairing etc will be well made and good quality, plus come with extra connectors to simply crimp/solder or attach direct to the wires from my accessories.
For example, I got one splitter that has on side 1: 2 push on connectors that connect to any marine grade 12v socket with a high amp rating, which I bought from Towzatronis and on side 2: a standard 2pin connector which I will use for powering aux lights. You can get splitters with pre-installed SAE plugs, 2pin, T connector etc, making it easy to connect to loads of accessories if you don't want to risk wiring too much yourself.


The Fuzeblock looks good too, is indeed cheaper at first but doesn't come with the wiring harness, which is an extra 30£, bringing it to EB territory. With the 3CS, splitters, extensions, some spare connectors to play around with and a few extra parts it came to about USD100 shipped, which isn't bad at all I think.
 
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Ray: Eastern Beaver PC8 here with the charger circuit and a dual usb charge station on un-switched circuits and Coax for heated gear and gps on switched circuits, with 4 switched available for future use. Very happy with it.

Evening, which heated gear do you have connected to it with a coax i just got the cycle gear brand hot wired connected to my eastern beaver and the light for the controller will not turn on however the gear automatically starts heating up? thanks
 
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