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Discussion Starter #1
I’m a new owner of a 2018 manual trans AT. I haven’t been able to find a thread that really addresses P level settings. The owner’s manual would have one believe that the engine simply delivers most power on 1 and least power on 3. One member explained that this isn’t true, but rather P level 1 delivers power earlier in the twists of the throttle vs later in the throttle twist with P level 3 (not actually cutting power). I’m inclined to believe this based on my experience but not completely sure. Does anyone REALLY know what the P level setting actually does and how it affects performance? I’m looking for actual knowledge about the workings of the P level control, not just individual guesses or opinions. Thanks.
 

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I'd love to know too. Have a 17 manual ....don't see any "P" settings anywhere. Just 3 "T" settings and ABS on/off. (Didn't get an owners man , used bike)

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My feeling is the power is definitely dulled on P3. As I've gotten used to the bike I no longer use that setting at all. It makes the bike feel dopey. Whether or not the peak power is the same as P1 but later in the rev range, I don't know for sure but it doesn't feel as powerful. Anyone got a dyno handy? :nerd:
 

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There are no changes on power output, P1 is a more aggressive power delivery, P3 is a tamer delivery, this comes from my Honda training notes.

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I'd love to know too. Have a 17 manual ....don't see any "P" settings anywhere. Just 3 "T" settings and ABS on/off. (Didn't get an owners man , used bike)

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Thete are no power modes on a 17, power is regulated by your right wrist, old skool

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Like PTWin said, the only difference in between the 3 power levels on the 2018 Africa is the amount of twist you need to give to the throttle. Power output remains the same for all modes.

Honestly, with just 94BHP (nominal), it would be a joke to reduce power......
 

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Discussion Starter #9
There are no changes on power output, P1 is a more aggressive power delivery, P3 is a tamer delivery, this comes from my Honda training notes.

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So, by “tamer” you mean the power delivery is spread out more with higher P setting versus more of an early, shorter burst of power on the more “aggressive” P1 setting. Is that right?
 

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The 1st 1/2 of the throttle turn gives less fuel/air per amount of throttle turn - so you have to turn the throttle grip further to get the same amount of fuel. This makes the throttle less sensitive, for a tamer delivery. The engine still makes the same power - only the signal from the throttle grip to the fuel injectors is different. You could get the same effect on a 16 or 17 model by using a ramped throttle sleeve (ie: G2 Throttle Tamer). If your low speed throttle action is jerky then they are helpful. The free thing to try first is to keep all of the slack out of your throttle. EFI systems controlled by a twist grip are notorious for having bad on/off throttle response at low speeds.
 

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So, by “tamer” you mean the power delivery is spread out more with higher P setting versus more of an early, shorter burst of power on the more “aggressive” P1 setting. Is that right?
Although there are changes to injector opening duration on the tamer setting the throttle butterflies are opened slower, in effect, only achievable with throttle by wire, which is why lots of modern bikes can have these "modes" Which is why older bikers have more control

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