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For me no not too much bothered by it.

FWIW The basemap provided by Rapid Bike for the Africa Twin was done on their dyno and tunes as such. Mine came with 44. Auto tune at 3200rpm.
They also provide a basemap for Full Arrow and Full Termignoni on a 2018 Africa Twin.

Yes to get the perfect AF Ratio for your bike in your conditions a sniffer should be used on the dyno. Although Rapid Bike has My Tuning Bike / YouTune and Wideband O2 capability for this as well. This would give the best compromise of good fuel consumption and acceleration power. Honda has set the stoichiometric value in the closed loop to provide a clean burn during cruising 14.7:1. Rapid bike from what I have read does not alter this.

Honda keeps close to this value when accelerating, thus hampering performance. We try to shoot for 13.0, 13.1, 13.2 for best performance during acceleration.

Lean conditions are far worse than the Rich conditions I am playing around with. The worse thing is wet plugs, soot and clogging the cat. I've done the same with Carburetors and jet kits. Don't get me wrong, either is bad. Lean conditions produce much more heat than that of Rich.

This is most likely in the owners manual from Rapid Bike lawyers making sure they cover themselves if we shoot for unrealistic values.

But yes, it is very much worth it to have the bike dynoed and tuned and have the auto tune run from that perfect base map on your motorcycle in your environment. Again Rapid Bike has My Tuning Bike and Wideband O2 capability for this.

I've had a few bikes dynoed and the cost is worth it but this Africa Twin does not have as many modifications as my sport bikes had.

Your bike, your money your risk, its up to you on what you are comfortable with when tuning.

Keep in mind that with the PAIR valve active and Cat in place along with whatever SMOG equipment is in there, the Dyno Tuner still may get a false reading. On top of that the dyno does not have RAM air effect. Good tuners will compensate for this. I dont know how much Honda has tuned for RAM air but looking at the ductwork it seems to be that they have some in place.
Also bear in mind that if you have DCT most dyno shops won't be able to do your bike. There is a post in this thread somewhere about a 70 euros device that fools the bike into thinking it's on a road rather than a dyno. I have only had a couple of bikes dyno'd in the past and from what I saw the dyno shops are not at all interested in what goes on at low revs and low throttle openings, so I am dubious they would be any help in what I'm trying to achieve.
I too understand that engine damage is more likely to occur by going too lean rather than what we are doing - going richer. It is odd that the factory are supplying some maps with a very rich target of 44 on the o2 sensor and no option of going any leaner than 42, whereas other maps are sent with a target of 40 built in.
I'm a bit depressed with my experiments at the moment (but not the bike 😄). I have incredibly rich setting is the 0% and 1% throttle columns and yet the other day when I tried regularly switching between this map and the original Honda map, I realised that I could not categorically say that I could tell any difference in ANY of the parameters I was previously saying were improved (snatchiness, power, engine braking etc). And here's another thing. why isn't the DCT or the ECU getting confused by all this extra fuel. Why isn't the idle speed increased if the EVO is chucking in more fuel? why isn't the DCT deciding it can't engage gear because of the extra power/fuel? And how can the engine braking not be any different with all the extra fuel going in at the 0% and 1% throttle openings? Why am I not getting any engine stalling or backfiring, why absolutely no difference in the always irregular idle revs? (The factory sent me a map with minus100% values in all the cells to prove that it really is doing something - the engine stalls as soon as I switch to it - so I can't get my head around whats (not) going on.
Not giving up yet though. 😄
Mike
 

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Auto tune is on point now. Smells a bit rich. Power is a lot higher than previous days and very very punchy! Feels like being slingshot. Very close to stock Super Sport 600 in acceleration in the high RPMs.

Herky Jerky throttle has smoothened out. Still present but not as bad.

Low RPM's have some low frequency vibrations. I think this is more the Parallel Twin 270 deg firing orders characteristics than fuelling.

I have an Akra slip-on on order, hoping it will help out the tune to lean it out a little bit. Will wait on a header as I do not want to dump fuel since this is my daily commuter. Currently getting 38.5 mpg per the trip computer. about 190 miles tank range. Not a bad trade off so far.

Stock Base Map 44 O2 +10 - 10 enrichment enleanment. K&N Filters, otherwise stock 2018 Manual with 35,000 miles on the clock.
 

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A partial update from me to report astonishing customer service from the Rapidbike factory in Italy. I bought through their main dealer in the Uk but the factory (Dimsport) is in Italy and they have a technical support guy who speaks perfect english and has been offering advice to me by email over several months.
Anyway - my autoadaptivity stopped working on my Evo module and we couldn't understand why, so today he took control of my windows computer remotely, and then monitored the Evo whilst we were doing an online chat. He agreed that I wasn't doing anything wrong and my installation was good, so he did a remote reset of the unit and everything seems fine again (autoadaptivity seems to be working again).
My project to smooth out the snatchy jerky bottom end is not progressing particularly well though, and I will put my thoughts in a separate update.
For those people looking for middle and top end improvements, other members have had good success, and I can report that Rapidbike's customer service is brilliant.
Mike
 

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Try Power Mode 2. This has helped me immensely with the snatchy throttle. Its gotten worse since the Akra install since it added a lot more power/ fuel. Power Mode 2 is the answer for me. Easy enough to change to Power Mode 1 when I need direct throttle response. I just use the "Urban" factory setting P2 EB2 TC6. My Personal setting is P1 EB3 TC1

This leads me to believe it is not fueling but throttle by wire. ECU tunes fix this but Rapid Bike does not delve deep enough.
 

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Try Power Mode 2. This has helped me immensely with the snatchy throttle. Its gotten worse since the Akra install since it added a lot more power/ fuel. Power Mode 2 is the answer for me. Easy enough to change to Power Mode 1 when I need direct throttle response. I just use the "Urban" factory setting P2 EB2 TC6. My Personal setting is P1 EB3 TC1

This leads me to believe it is not fueling but throttle by wire. ECU tunes fix this but Rapid Bike does not delve deep enough.
I switch between gravel and a user mode I have set up. Gravel is power mode 3 (slowest throttle ramp) and my user setting is power mode 1 (fastest throttle take-up). sometimes I feel there's a difference in the snatchiness and other times I don't.
Can you get ECU tunes to work with the Africa Twin? I have it for my Triumph Rocket 3 and it worked well to put an updated map in the ECU, but shortly afterwards Triumph changed their ECUs so you couldn't modify them. I assumed Honda had gone that route too.
Mike
 
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