Also bear in mind that if you have DCT most dyno shops won't be able to do your bike. There is a post in this thread somewhere about a 70 euros device that fools the bike into thinking it's on a road rather than a dyno. I have only had a couple of bikes dyno'd in the past and from what I saw the dyno shops are not at all interested in what goes on at low revs and low throttle openings, so I am dubious they would be any help in what I'm trying to achieve.For me no not too much bothered by it.
FWIW The basemap provided by Rapid Bike for the Africa Twin was done on their dyno and tunes as such. Mine came with 44. Auto tune at 3200rpm.
They also provide a basemap for Full Arrow and Full Termignoni on a 2018 Africa Twin.
Yes to get the perfect AF Ratio for your bike in your conditions a sniffer should be used on the dyno. Although Rapid Bike has My Tuning Bike / YouTune and Wideband O2 capability for this as well. This would give the best compromise of good fuel consumption and acceleration power. Honda has set the stoichiometric value in the closed loop to provide a clean burn during cruising 14.7:1. Rapid bike from what I have read does not alter this.
Honda keeps close to this value when accelerating, thus hampering performance. We try to shoot for 13.0, 13.1, 13.2 for best performance during acceleration.
Lean conditions are far worse than the Rich conditions I am playing around with. The worse thing is wet plugs, soot and clogging the cat. I've done the same with Carburetors and jet kits. Don't get me wrong, either is bad. Lean conditions produce much more heat than that of Rich.
This is most likely in the owners manual from Rapid Bike lawyers making sure they cover themselves if we shoot for unrealistic values.
But yes, it is very much worth it to have the bike dynoed and tuned and have the auto tune run from that perfect base map on your motorcycle in your environment. Again Rapid Bike has My Tuning Bike and Wideband O2 capability for this.
I've had a few bikes dynoed and the cost is worth it but this Africa Twin does not have as many modifications as my sport bikes had.
Your bike, your money your risk, its up to you on what you are comfortable with when tuning.
Keep in mind that with the PAIR valve active and Cat in place along with whatever SMOG equipment is in there, the Dyno Tuner still may get a false reading. On top of that the dyno does not have RAM air effect. Good tuners will compensate for this. I dont know how much Honda has tuned for RAM air but looking at the ductwork it seems to be that they have some in place.
I too understand that engine damage is more likely to occur by going too lean rather than what we are doing - going richer. It is odd that the factory are supplying some maps with a very rich target of 44 on the o2 sensor and no option of going any leaner than 42, whereas other maps are sent with a target of 40 built in.
I'm a bit depressed with my experiments at the moment (but not the bike 😄). I have incredibly rich setting is the 0% and 1% throttle columns and yet the other day when I tried regularly switching between this map and the original Honda map, I realised that I could not categorically say that I could tell any difference in ANY of the parameters I was previously saying were improved (snatchiness, power, engine braking etc). And here's another thing. why isn't the DCT or the ECU getting confused by all this extra fuel. Why isn't the idle speed increased if the EVO is chucking in more fuel? why isn't the DCT deciding it can't engage gear because of the extra power/fuel? And how can the engine braking not be any different with all the extra fuel going in at the 0% and 1% throttle openings? Why am I not getting any engine stalling or backfiring, why absolutely no difference in the always irregular idle revs? (The factory sent me a map with minus100% values in all the cells to prove that it really is doing something - the engine stalls as soon as I switch to it - so I can't get my head around whats (not) going on.
Not giving up yet though. 😄