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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
I am not sure if anyone has issue with their rear brake, to me, it feels completely ineffective. I came off a BMW 1200RT where the rear brake had a very positive feel and if I wanted to, I could bring it to ABS engaging on dry pavement. The AT's rear brake feels very mushy, ineffective and I could not bring it to the point of locking it up on dry pavement. It definitely is not just my bike, it was the same on a 2017 demo I rode few weeks ago. In fact I complained about it to the dealer asking him to have the bike checked out.
Or is it unique for adventure bikes to have purposely weak rear brake? I am going to bleed the brake next week and if that doesn't help I will look into some alternative brake pads. Guess, steel brake lines could help as well...
 

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mine is able to lock the rear on dry pavement. In fact, i was kind of surprised that, even with ABS on, it briefly locked up before ABS kicked in. On both my 650 and 1000 v-stroms, that was impossible. Abs was much more sensitive and would immediately kick in without any chirping.
 

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Yes mine locks up easily on pavement. Upon delivery I always clean the brake discs with brake parts cleaner. Then I went through the motions to break in the pads front and rear when I first got the bike at the same time as engine break in. I believe that makes a difference. Your pads could have also gotten contaminated with chain lube. If bleeding doesn't improve the feel, you may get an improvement by cleaning the disc or even the pads with brake parts cleaner. Your pads may have become glazed as well, I've brought some pads back to life by putting a piece of sandpaper on a piece of glass and rubbing the pads till the glazing was removed and then re-installing and performing the break in ritual.

I agree the ABS seems like something engineered 40 years ago, it locks up, starts turning, locks up, starts turning etc not very effective and light years behind things like lean angle sensitive braking systems on other bikes. Your brake lever may be adjusted down a little too far and your boots are not allowing full use of the pedal as well.
 

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Yes mine locks up easily on pavement. Upon delivery I always clean the brake discs with brake parts cleaner. Then I went through the motions to break in the pads front and rear when I first got the bike at the same time as engine break in. I believe that makes a difference. Your pads could have also gotten contaminated with chain lube. If bleeding doesn't improve the feel, you may get an improvement by cleaning the disc or even the pads with brake parts cleaner. Your pads may have become glazed as well, I've brought some pads back to life by putting a piece of sandpaper on a piece of glass and rubbing the pads till the glazing was removed and then re-installing and performing the break in ritual.

I agree the ABS seems like something engineered 40 years ago, it locks up, starts turning, locks up, starts turning etc not very effective and light years behind things like lean angle sensitive braking systems on other bikes. Your brake lever may be adjusted down a little too far and your boots are not allowing full use of the pedal as well.
Spot on C2C, in particular the boots thing. My touring BMW boots are nowhere near the bulky boots many people might choose for the AT and yet the shin protector interferes with me pressing the brake pedal properly. Also when I first got the AT in April I thought the back brake was excellent but now it seems pretty average.
Mike
 

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I a yet to find any bike of the modern era that has a rear brake that will bite. I have to come down a slight slope to the road when I leave home and cannot get the rear brake alone to bring me to a halt. Front brake is fine. I ran my brakes in gently so wil give the disks a clean up just in case. I have added the alt rider brake pedal and am playing with getting the pedal position right. Too high in standard so lowering it a bit to get the optimum angle.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Well, I have made some progress, not sure what did it. I cleaned the disk and brake pads with cleaning fluid and used a 220 sandpaper to remove some glaze from breaking pads. Then I bled the brake, there was definitely some air in it. Rear breaking is improved, but it still is not what I would expect and I am not able to lock the wheel on dry pavement.
 

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I am not sure if anyone has issue with their rear brake, to me, it feels completely ineffective. I came off a BMW 1200RT where the rear brake had a very positive feel and if I wanted to, I could bring it to ABS engaging on dry pavement. The AT's rear brake feels very mushy, ineffective and I could not bring it to the point of locking it up on dry pavement. It definitely is not just my bike, it was the same on a 2017 demo I rode few weeks ago. In fact I complained about it to the dealer asking him to have the bike checked out."

I picked up my AT last January. I have done 3600 miles on it so far. Yesterday while I went riding to Sudbury in Sussex, the rear brake suddenly would not apply. This was after having rode around 175 miles during the day. Thankfully I was at a parking lot so it did not cause an issue. After that, I thought it might have been my mistake and continued riding back onto M25. But 20 minutes later, a passing car warned me to pull over and indicated at my wheel. I pulled over to the side immediately and I was shocked to find the rear disk glowing red hot. I switched off the bike and called AA to rescue me and tow back home. I wanted to check if there have been any known recall issues for AT rear brake caliper failures. This was pretty serious and could have turned ugly if the passing car had not warned me. No idea what caused this issue.
 

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I am not sure if anyone has issue with their rear brake, to me, it feels completely ineffective. I came off a BMW 1200RT where the rear brake had a very positive feel and if I wanted to, I could bring it to ABS engaging on dry pavement. The AT's rear brake feels very mushy, ineffective and I could not bring it to the point of locking it up on dry pavement. It definitely is not just my bike, it was the same on a 2017 demo I rode few weeks ago. In fact I complained about it to the dealer asking him to have the bike checked out."

I picked up my AT last January. I have done 3600 miles on it so far. Yesterday while I went riding to Sudbury in Sussex, the rear brake suddenly would not apply. This was after having rode around 175 miles during the day. Thankfully I was at a parking lot so it did not cause an issue. After that, I thought it might have been my mistake and continued riding back onto M25. But 20 minutes later, a passing car warned me to pull over and indicated at my wheel. I pulled over to the side immediately and I was shocked to find the rear disk glowing red hot. I switched off the bike and called AA to rescue me and tow back home. I wanted to check if there have been any known recall issues for AT rear brake caliper failures. This was pretty serious and could have turned ugly if the passing car had not warned me. No idea what caused this issue.
Hi, this saturday I had the same situation with my Africa Twin CRF10000 model 2017 with just 5000 miles (still under warranty) , the brake stopped working and the rear brake pedal went all the way down without any effect.

When I noticed that y pulled over and noticed that the rear disk and caliper was completely overheated and near red glowing.

I cooled them with water and opened the caliper and made some space between the brake pads and the disc with a lever.

Once the caliper and disc was cold i modev the caliper with my hand and verified that the caliper moved relatively (but not completely) free. I noticed that the bake pads were almost completely worn

THen returned my trip stopping regularly to check if the caliper overheated again but fortunately the situation did no happen again.

Anyway, today I decided to call the Honda dealer where I bought my bike to create a warraty case but they will take several days before decide the resolution of this warranty case.

I´ll let you know about any news

Best regards!
 

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I have the exact opposite experience. I'm on an old (2016), manual, non-ABS, AT.

The rear wheel locks up in a second. Slightly too much pressure when I'm slowing down from fast speed, and it instantly locks and skids. I'm actually growing to like those skid sounds when approaching a red traffic lights a bit too fast :). I also found that quickly popping down two gears from 3rd to 1st, when approaching a hairpin corner on the road near my house (quiet back road, not much traffic around), easily results in a cool tail slide.
After many years on pure road/sport bikes, which had great grip and strong stopping power (no skidding at all), I'm enjoying the feel of looseness and lack of grip (feels like riding on dirt, even though I'm on the road). Just hope it doesn't turn around and bite me in the Ass when I'm not expecting it. :surprise:

What a fun bike! :cool:
 

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In a month of usage, new 2018 AT, I've already locked (Abs engaged) the rear brake 3 times: first one in an emergency braking, the other two I was simply running too fast getting down from a mountain...
No problem at all with my rear brake.
 

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I have the ATAS. The rear brake has very little effect. If I press really hard I can feel some effect but that feels too much pressure for me. Its been the same since new. I am not impressed by the front brake either. Plenty of fork dive but not much slowing down ! My CRF250L rear brake was the same.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Í do not think that disconnecting rear brake is a solution, definitely not the "BEST". I'd suggest to bleed the brake thoroughly, air bubbles in the fluid do expand, especially in hot weather, and engage the brake.

As for myself, after bleeding the brake, cleaning both the disk and pads with fine emery cloth and degreasing them with acetone, I have now satisfactory rear beake.

Sent from my SM-T813 using Tapatalk
 

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I have the ATAS. The rear brake has very little effect. If I press really hard I can feel some effect but that feels too much pressure for me. Its been the same since new. I am not impressed by the front brake either. Plenty of fork dive but not much slowing down ! My CRF250L rear brake was the same.
Yes mine is also crap, 2018 ATAS ,have noticed loads of that snot they put on the chain from new all over the back wheel and still coming off at 2000 miles so probably on the discs and pads also..
 

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Yes mine is also crap, 2018 ATAS ,have noticed loads of that snot they put on the chain from new all over the back wheel and still coming off at 2000 miles so probably on the discs and pads also..
I thought those black deposits (on my gold wheels) were oil fling from the chain. But then I couldn't get them off and looked at them with a magnifying glass and found they were black corrosion marks in the anodising.
Mike
 

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I have the ATAS, done 2500Km at this point of time and my complain is that the rear brake is way too STRONG!!!

I just need to touch it lightly before the ABS kicks in. And, like a fella wrote earlier, this ABS implementation feels really primitive.

It is a real problem for me. The rear wheel just locks way to easy and once the ABS kicks in, rear braking is simply non-existent.

Do you believe that the OEM tires play a role on that? Those Dunlops do not seems to have a very good grip.

Please share your opinions because if my observations are correct, I would like to change tires before the rains start and I discover in a bad way that I was right about them.
 
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