[DardyRob]

Just put a new tyre on my AT. Put it all back together again now the wheel won’t spin on the centre stand without quite firm pressure by hand. ive pulled it on and off several times, spacers are in correctly, cush hub is in correctly, brake caliper is fitted correct. As soon as i torque the axle nut it seems to lock the wheel down.

i feel like such a dumbo. I bet it’s something simple, but I can’t find the issue. Ideas?

 

[DoubleThumper]

In gear?


On a more serious note, is it a DCT model?

 

[DCTFAN]

Rear wheel has asymmetrical spacers unlike the front.
Some earlier copies of the Service manual have a diagram that shows the spacers reversed.(in error)
The spacer in the shape of a top hat should go on the sprocket side. The other spacer is same as the front spacers- it goes on the brake side.

 

[DardyRob]

I’m such a effing idiot!
thanks DCT, that has to be it. Funny thing is when I put the spacers back in it looked like the seal IDs were different and the spacers would only go one way.....but I was wrong!

 

[DardyRob]

Yep, fixed and it’s rotating sweet. Big thanks for the help
in the kitchen my wife says I have domestic blindness. I think today was a case of mechanical blindness!

 

[DCTFAN]

Glad it worked out.
Now keep that rear wheel turning

 

[DirtRoadGuy]

Thanks @DCTFAN for clarifying this disappointing shortfall in Honda's Technical Publications. @DardyRob you are being way too hard on yourself. I did the same thing on reassembly with a Mechanical Trade Qualification and an Applied Science Degree. The Tech Publication is supposed to be reliable and you did the right thing by following its directions to the letter.
Just wondering if anyone may be able to lead me to a reliable version of the Workshop Manual? Thanks in advance.

 

[DCTFAN]

The rest of the service manual has been error-free, in my limited use.
75k miles and ongoing maintenance for my 16 AT

 

[Fuzzcat]

Some earlier copies of the Service manual have a diagram that shows the spacers reversed.(in error)
The spacer in the shape of a top hat should go on the sprocket side. The other spacer is same as the front spacers- it goes on the brake side.

From someone planning to pull the wheels soon thanks for this post.... wonder if there is any place to get info on which revisions of the manual include the correction?

 

[seventyone]

Easy answer to this problem , use two bit trays , left side bits in one right in the other , I do this with every job on the bike just to be sure .

 

[DirtRoadGuy]

Easy answer to this problem , use two bit trays , left side bits in one right in the other , I do this with every job on the bike just to be sure .

Sometimes though @seventyone, **** happens and you need a reference to ensure you have everything and it's back in the right place. As an example, I have a Staffy who has taken parts off to the middle of the lawn for an "exploratory chew".

 

[mbaur]

I had the same problem as the OP with the same symptoms and ended up here because in an attempt to fix it I fell for the old workshop manual which made the situation worse.

I had done the procedure many times before and thought putting the wheel back on after getting a new tire would be a jiffy and completed in a few minutes. Wrong! I took the wheel off and put it back on at least four or five times always with the same result: The wheel turned fine until I started tightening the axle nuts when the rear brake started to grab making it difficult to turn the wheel by hand.

After falling for the wrong manual graphics, putting the spacers in incorrectly, then back in the right way and still no solution in sight, I decided to finally take the rear caliper off ( I always skip that step because the wheel can be moved in and out without touching the caliper). The moment I loosened the allen bolt on the caliper came the big aha moment: I don't know how and why, but the caliper wasn't properly aligned. Loosening the brake caliper bolt toward the front with the allen bolt and retightening it with the brake engaged solved the problem!

Bottom line: if you stumble across this thread, make sure you've checked that the brake caliper(s) are aligned properly.

 

[DirtRoadGuy]

The moment I loosened the allen bolt on the caliper came the big aha moment: I don't know how and why, but the caliper wasn't properly aligned. Loosening the brake caliper bolt toward the front with the allen bolt and retightening it with the brake engaged solved the problem!

I have also had the brake caliper jam my wheel as I tightened the axle nut. Often cycling the brakes can move the caliper on its slide bolts, thereby un-jamming this caliper lockup.

 

[Art]

It's a FLOATING BRAKE CALIPER!

If its not floating, moving freely towards and away from the disc, it needs sorting or there is risk of warping the disc during braking as well as premature brake pad and brake disc wear. Check the caliper guide pins for any wear, damage or corrosion and that they are not bent. Clean or replace as necessary, repack with silicone grease on re-assembly.

Don't confuse the caliper guide pins with the brake pad retaining pins but check, clean and grease them too while you're there.

 

[DirtRoadGuy]

It's a FLOATING BRAKE CALIPER!

It's not a perfect World we live in. It gets re-greased with every set of pads, but when a bike is 6 years/70,000kms old, not every thing slides around like it used to. This was a comment made to help people who were getting wheel lock-up after re-assembly - not for building new bikes from the crate.

 

[Art]

Just telling it how it is, there is only one reason why

when a bike is 6 years/70,000kms old, not every thing slides around like it used to.

You're helping nobody by ignoring the underlying fault.