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I'm going to change the rear spring and possibly the shock, has anyone tried this yet because looking at it it would seem that you need to remove the swing arm to get it out.
 

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I'm going to change the rear spring and possibly the shock, has anyone tried this yet because looking at it it would seem that you need to remove the swing arm to get it out.

Yes I have removed mine, you do NOT need to remove the swing-arm but its a bit fiddly to get it out. This is what I did:

1) Jack up bike
2) Undo bottom suspension links.
3) Remove Preload adjuster knob from shock.
4) undo top shock bolt.
5) Lift the swing-arm and the shock can be twisted and got out.

Not for 5 you really need 2 people, the shock has to be twisted to get it out.
 

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The pre-load handle stays with the shock.
The service manual also recommends you remove the rectifier on chain side(2x bolts&elec. connectors).
 

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Hi, Does your bike have a main stand fitted ? I'm wondering if I take mine off I may get more angle to get the shocker up and out. Thanks.
 

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I am in the position of being stuck with my AT hoisted in the air and still unable to get this shock out.

When it says "remove the preload knob" are you literally meaning just the knob at the end that seems held on by a cross-head screw (leaving the shaft in situ)
or does the whole shaft and knob come away from the shock body?

It seems impossible to get out from where it is?

Currently waiting for a mate to arrive and together we can try this lifting and twisting method but i really need to know about this pre-load knob as i just don't see how it can help?

Thanks

ian
 

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I am in the position of being stuck with my AT hoisted in the air and still unable to get this shock out.

When it says "remove the preload knob" are you literally meaning just the knob at the end that seems held on by a cross-head screw (leaving the shaft in situ)
or does the whole shaft and knob come away from the shock body?

It seems impossible to get out from where it is?

Currently waiting for a mate to arrive and together we can try this lifting and twisting method but i really need to know about this pre-load knob as i just don't see how it can help?

Thanks

ian

Yes it was just the knob we removed.

I know we twisted the shock round and we may well have moved the swing arm up and down during the removal as well.

I am not near my bike at the moment so sorry I cant be more help but we definitely did not remove the swing arm.
 

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Sorry for delay in replying as i was working away. With my mates help we got the shock out without removing the knob. Athough it seemed impossible it does come out by lowering the unfastened shock downwards with a slight anti-clockwise twist (say about 30 degrees) so that the offending KNOB is actually the LAST part of the shock assembly to pass through. Before re-assembly we noticed that screwing the said knob in clockwise to the full pre-load position makes it protrude less from the body of the shock absorber and makes the re-install a little easier so i would recommend applying full preload BEFORE attempting removal to give a little more 'wiggling room'.

I was in the position of being able to adjust things like swinging arm height/position with my electric hoist but even so having an extra pair of hands to help was crucial (thanks JoeR1)

I so wish i had taken some pictures but as per usual my phone decided to self destruct the same day and now needs a trip to Samsung for repair/replacement.

I haven't done the settings yet but after buying Hyperpro 1" lowering springs for the shock and forks i can now just about FLAT FOOT on both sides and feel a lot more secure when coming to a halt. I can live with any loss of ground clearance as i am unlikely to do any extreme off-roading on such a big heavy machine. i always thought even a 450 to be too big when i did some trail riding in the past and settled on a little CRF230 (i have had 3 of them)

Summary:

yes it comes out downwards

yes it is fiddly

yes it is easier with a mates help

yes it was worth the effort

Ian UK.
 

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Did you change the spring on the bench yourself or take it to a shop for that part?
 

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compressed it easily using 2 x ratchet straps threaded behind the furthest possible coils with the ratchets flat on the outside, just kept tightening each strap a little in turn until the collars were free of the spring

Ian
 

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If anyone has done the front springs i would really appreciate a simple step by step guide as the Hyperpro manual is anything but clear...
 

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If anyone has done the front springs i would really appreciate a simple step by step guide as the Hyperpro manual is anything but clear...
I did it using the Service manual and Hyperpro instructions. The Service Manual had pretty detailed instructions. In the Service manual on 17-2, it shows several tools you need. I made the tools pretty cheaply and I had a Tusk fork oil level tool {https://www.rockymountainatvmc.com/p/731/10975/Tusk-Fork-Oil-Level-Tool}. I made one but a {https://www.rockymountainatvmc.com/p/1056/26539/Tusk-Cartridge-Rod-Holding-Tool} is handy to have. I can't post links so these might not show up.
 

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Hi!

One additional post regarding the rear shock (I've done a change to a Wilbers product 2 days ago for lowering the bike for -30 mm).

I've found a change of the rear shock much easier when uninstalling the rear wheel, remove the axle of the swing arm and bring the swing arm itself some 10 cm towards the rear (fixed with a spanner on the frame).

This are just a few bolts more but, give you much more space for handling.

Cheers, gerhard
 

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I'm in the middle of the rebuild now... one issue when it comes to refilling the oil with the hyperpro supplied oil the Hyperpro manual says 180mm from the top the Honda manual says 95mm from the top.... which measurement did you use?
 

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Hi!

When using the Hyperpro springs and oil I would use the value Hyperpro recommends.

Please check carefully HOW the measurement should be done!!!

WITH springs installed or WITHOUT!!!
 
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