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I bought 2019 Africa Twin last year and racked up about 3,000 miles in about a month. Shortly after, I serviced it for the last time and garaged her before headed overseas for my job. Since then there has been a pandemic that has prevented me from returning to America for 11 months now. A family member of mine has connected the battery and started her about once every couple of months to idle.
When I return home, should I have a shop fully service (oil, coolant, etc) my AT again or would you consider this an appropriate amount of time to be garaged? My bikes in the past never sat longer than a couple weeks at most, so I'm a bit out of my depth.
Any info you have helps
 

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Many will suggest at least an oil change. The filter may be fine.

Definitely inspect and address any rubber surfaces for cracks, hardening, dents, etc.

Hopefully the fuel was preserved, but you may wish to purge/burn the old stuff.
 

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I've seen this question come up before and the deciding factor is always "where you live". If it is being stored in a very damp environment, especially subjected to direct rain, definitely change the oil. Condensation forms quickly. Fuel stabilizer is usually an alcohol which will help disperse the water (condensation again) and help. Boat owners typically FILL the gas tank fully at the beginning of winter to not allow any 'air' in the tank thus reducing condensation. It gets really bad when talking about older carb motors.
If you're in a somewhat dry area, or the bike is stored in a dry garage, you have little to worry about. Fuel stabilizer is always a good idea since you really don't know how good/old the fuel was when you put it in.
 

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I've seen this question come up before and the deciding factor is always "where you live". If it is being stored in a very damp environment, especially subjected to direct rain, definitely change the oil. Condensation forms quickly. Fuel stabilizer is usually an alcohol which will help disperse the water (condensation again) and help. Boat owners typically FILL the gas tank fully at the beginning of winter to not allow any 'air' in the tank thus reducing condensation. It gets really bad when talking about older carb motors.
If you're in a somewhat dry area, or the bike is stored in a dry garage, you have little to worry about. Fuel stabilizer is always a good idea since you really don't know how good/old the fuel was when you put it in.
Fill the tank with NON-ETHANOL gas, otherwise you will end up with water in your tank. Ethanol absorbs water, then when the temperature drops the water precipitates out.
 

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.... A family member of mine has connected the battery and started her about once every couple of months to idle.
When I return home, should I have a shop fully service (oil, coolant, etc) my AT again or would you consider this an appropriate amount of time to be garaged? ...
As mentioned by Todd157k, it depends on how / where the bike was stored.
Inside a heated garage - just ride it. Outside under a tarp - I'd change the oil.
I really don't know why people think it's a good idea to start up a bike (or any engine) every couple of months and idle it for a while while in storage. Byproduct of combustion is water vapour. Unless the engine, THE OIL and the exhaust gets up to full operating temperature long enough to burn off the vapour, you are just asking for milky oil and rusted exhaust.
Better to put it to bed properly then wake it up once.
 

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Can Fuel Stabilizer Kill your Motorcycle? Ryan from FortNine ...
Poppycock.

I trust parts vendors for scientific research like I trust Trump.

I've used it for 25 years and never had an issue. I've rebuilt the fuel systems on several bikes that I used sea foam in particular on religiously. Never ran into corrosion. Almost always ran into a virtually pointless rebuild because everything was so clean.
 

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black99S makes a good point about the bike being run during your absence. Water in the engine mixes with combustion biproducts (NOx) and creates nitric acid, which will damage engine components.
Cold start and idle periods are the most inefficient time of ring sealing, which leads to more combustion passing into the crankcase, elevating the possibility of NOx mixing with condensation and forming nitric acid.
It may be worth loosening the engine drain plug loose to see if any water/milky oil comes out.
If clean oil comes out, go ride. If any water, milky oil comes out, drain the engine, remove the filter, flush some clean oil through, then install a new filter(s), and refill with fresh oil.
 

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Fill the tank with NON-ETHANOL gas, otherwise you will end up with water in your tank. Ethanol absorbs water, then when the temperature drops the water precipitates out.
Correct... except if you fill your tank, there's no condensation area to make the water in the first place. Out here in the Republic of Kalifornia, we don't get the option of Non-E gas... for like 20 years now.
 

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The fuel tank "breathes as it heats and cools each day. That intake breath, as the tank cools off draws moist air in, whether the tank is full or empty. Ethanol being hygroscopic will pull the moisture in. Which over a year can be significant.
VP racing fuel is available in California, as are other racing fuels, without ethanol. Not cheap, but if only being done once a year, may be a viable option.
 

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Not something I have ever worried about or had an issue with here in the midwest. Our winters are typically very dry and I have a heated garage :)
 

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I have no garage and winters are mostly damp (except January and February where it can get down to -35C). No heat. No fuel stabilizer. Motorcycle and lawnmower start on the first pull year after year, decade after decade.
 

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A family member of mine has connected the battery and started her about once every couple of months to idle.
Oil change is due as well as a battery test -- idling does not do a lot to the battery but saturates oil with moisture pretty fast.
 

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After 1 year of storage, without ever riding or starting the bike it becomes JUNK, time to sell & buy a new awesome Africa twin.
 
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