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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Dealer decided it was just an ECU reset and has held the bike for 4 days trying to decide if I pay or Honda pays. (Previous ECU resets I have done did not fix the issue) How long does a warranty decision generally take?
 

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Your dealer is an idiot. It's well documented and known that a new starter switch fixes the starting issues. Heck, my dealer phoned me to tell me my bike needed a new switch. What is it with American dealers who seem to know fek all when it comes to known issues ?
 

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As I've written before; in thirty years of riding I've not had one issue with any of my two Hondas or two Suzukis, (newest being my 2008 Vstrom). Hope I can be lucky enough to keep this up.
My 16 AT has quit thrice a few seconds after being started, hmmm.
 

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One of the first things I did to mine was to drizzle a small amount of ACF50 in to the switch units, dripping it off a cocktail stick, just to add a bit of protection.
 
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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Yeah those yo-yos are trying to chisel me out of $130 to disconnect the friggen battery. If they give me crap today I will probably raise **** with their GM and if that doesn't work well, **** hath no fury as a guy with 2 lawyers in the family.
 

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Just a thought does disconnecting the battery actually cause the ecu to reset. I suspect it may have an internal battery that retains the firmware/memory. Does anyone know for certain.
 
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Discussion Starter · #10 · (Edited)
Interesting story today, after Honda declined to pay for the service I came to pick my bike up. Fired it up, still running like junk where you would normally see d or n it was displaying the letter L. Point this out to the service tech and we notice sport 3 and d are lit up too. They roll it back in the shop reset the ecu again. Rolls back out seemingly fixed. It gets better when I tried to take off none of the buttons we're responsive to shift into ANY gear. I'm loving this. So after a week of my bike being gone it's back in the shop again and they can't contact Honda till Tuesday. I am starting to regret selling my DR650...
 
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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Contacting Honda was even better they blew me off telling me they would contact the shop. Finance blew me off on getting a pro-rated monthly payment for their horrific slow response. I think it may be time to lawyer up.
 
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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Update 2: The dealer mentioned the potential of a replacement bike if it cannot be resolved this time. They have 2 manuals and a DCT on hand, would it be best to stick with the DCT or try the Manual out?
 

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Update 2: The dealer mentioned the potential of a replacement bike if it cannot be resolved this time. They have 2 manuals and a DCT on hand, would it be best to stick with the DCT or try the Manual out?
You owned a DR650 as did I, so you know how to use a clutch. The AT clutch is very light - easy to use with one finger for shifting on gnarly gravel uphills. Your voyage into DCT land has been a disaster.

Don't vacillate, don't talk about 'trying it out', cut and run - take the offer and grab a standard AT - it's 25lb or so lighter with less electronic & mechanical crap to screw up.
 

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Ah but the virtues of a DCT bike that is working well are worth their weight in gold to many happy customers. I didn't actually think that the starting was a DCT issue but would appear to have had an ECU reset. The manual also has a ECU so let's not put the blame where it does not deserve to be. Horses for courses and each to their own and all that. Please let's not hijack this and start another anti DCT thread. Without DCT I for one would no longer be riding.
 
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Discussion Starter · #17 · (Edited)
Oh I'm not anti dct by any means, the Africa Twin is my commuter and the dct is a godsend in Austin traffic. I can't think of another bike that ticks off all the boxes like the Africa Twin. The only dct the dealer has is the Capitan America one... I could order one but that would be weeks of more time in my f150 tossing a gold bar in the tank for the commute. I do not think it's a dct only problem but a bunk computer, *shrugs*my bike repair knowledge is on a technological level of a dr650.
 

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Well if your dealer is going to replace your bike FOC like for like, go for it. If you have some affinity with the current bike, ask them to swop the right switch cluster from one of the new bikes onto yours which will solve the issue (and show how thick your dealer is). You'll then get that under warranty at zero cost to you.
 

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You'd like to think any new part changed under warranty has been updated, but in reality who knows ? All I can confirm is that the new switch fixed my start/stall issues and should it start to play up again in the future, I'll be knocking on my dealers door.
 
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