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I posted the link to the vid for another more pertinent issue- the way the front wheel was installed- it's not what is recommended.
Not readily apparent but doing it the wrong way could cause problems (maybe it has already)
I posted in this thread about it:
 

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When I recently purchased my 2019 AT after riding about 60 miles it began to run rough and then quit. My son came and picked me up with a trailer - I started to look over the bike and removed the battery cover and found that the dealer never connected the battery leads. The battery cable was in such a position that when the toolbox cover was bolted in place it was pushing the cable against the battery terminals and made contact for a while. I also noticed that the steering seemed sluggish so I checked the tire pressure - it was about 10psi front and rear! I went over the entire bike and checked all other fasteners to make sure. The next day when riding I was on a two lane highway and a truck was coming towards me travleing in the opposite direction. When the wind blast hit me from the passing truck the windshield popped off and swiveled sideways being held by one windshield screw. The dealer when they assembled the bike, had way over tightened the well nut fasteners to the point that they had destroyed them. They probably used an impact wrench to tighten them. Anyway - I contacted the dealer sent them pictures and got an apology. This was not sufficient to me as I kept thinking about some other person getting hurt or killed because of this dealership's lack of attention. I posted a yelp and google review of my issues and did I ever get a quick response from the dealer - they offered me 200.00 credit and asked that I take down the reviews. I told them I did not want anything other to make sure this did not happen to anyone else. I filed a report with Honda as well as the state bureau of automotive repair. Both Honda and the state followed up with me and stated that they had contacted the dealer about what had happened and are investigating. I doubt anything will come of it but the dealer may take servicing the bikes a little more seriously.

Dan
 

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Well, the call with xxxx xxxx in xxxxxx AZ went about as well as expected.

They are clueless about setup of the bike. "xxx" said that they are setup in their central warehouse and the dealer location doen't have anything to do with it. No ideas about why extra bolts were provided, says that it happens all the time.

Guess I will ride over at lunch and look at a couple of the other AT's on their floor, but I think I already have my answer and will swap the bolts from the bag into the calipers.

Typical useless dealer interaction. Not much concern about whether it is setup correctly.
 

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Honda has a Setup PDI checklist that the technician setting up the bike is supposed to follow, check off and sign. They also have a salesperson pre-delivery checklist that includes checking the Setup PDI checklist to make sure everything is checked and signatures are in place.

I can tell my dealership has gone around and done the checks because bolts that require replacement and/or torque checks are marked with sharpie. (I still double check them at home).

It seems that despite this double check though, some dealers aren't doing their job with setup. That's unfortunate and potentially dangerous.



Sent from my SM-N975U1 using Tapatalk
 

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OK, had a visit with my friendly dealer service writer, then his manager, and finally dealer GM.

Showed service writer the bolts, offered to show video posted by DCTFAN, above. Offer declined. He went to get a service manager while he had the bolts swapped for me in the shop.

Service manager took a look at the bolts, pulled up the setup procedure, and low and behold, the chrome looking bolts with the deep indents and red thread locking compound are the ones that are supposed to replace the transport bolts on new bike assembly. Service manager did me a small favor, that was appreciated, but not adequate for the amount of time I burned on the topic.

We then strolled to the GM's office and had a more appropriate discussion about risk and liability. I am now a happy customer.

Here is the cover page of the Setup procedure, incase anyone needs to referrence it with their friendly dealer. (Same one @Ghostrider.1127 gave us earlier in the thread.) Really glad you cleared this up, for us!

53329


I don't think the transport bolts are necessarily bad, but I think the hard chrome on the correct bolts may hold up to corrosion better. Maybe they are better bolts; who really knows?

The transport bolts DID NOT have any thread locker on them, so that alone is a big concern for ignoring the problem.

Here are the transport bolts, after removal:
53335


53336
 

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I am horrified that there are dealers out there who are doing this, its so frightening.
I now have confirmed why I travel bloody miles to use my NON LOCAL dealer (I trust them).

Thank God you posted on here and nice one @Ghostrider.1127 for getting in there quick with the correct advice.
If you are in any doubt as to what you have in...buy some more...how can it hurt?! better than not knowing.
 

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Beowulf
Thanks for the confirmation.
Since your bike is fairly new, you should loosen the RHS axle bolts,
bounce the forks to seat properly and re-tighten the axle bolts- Peace of mind you know.
It would help a lot of folks if you could confirm the gap between the RHS fork and the spacer.
Do you end up with this gap?

53330
 

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@Beowulf, I am glad you had a chat with them. One more dealership that will hopefully do the right thing by its customers with setup. At least until the SM or GM positions turn over....
 

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Beowulf
Thanks for the confirmation.
Since your bike is fairly new, you should loosen the RHS axle bolts,
bounce the forks to seat properly and re-tighten the axle bolts- Peace of mind you know.
It would help a lot of folks if you could confirm the gap between the RHS fork and the spacer.
Do you end up with this gap?

View attachment 53330
Thanks @DCTFAN , good idea, what with the quality of setup, so far.

Loosened up pinch bolts and axle nut, the tightened up everything in sequence from the shop manual, with appropriate bouncing around, in between steps.

Didn't notice any changes. Gap pictures before and after, below: there was about a 1mm gap that stayed consistent.

Shop Manual shows a plastic cover for the hex head of the front axle bolt/nut. Anyone get one of those? I did not.

RHS before:

53331


RHS after:

53332


LHS before:
53333

LHS after:

53334





Nothing particularly noteworthy that I can observe.

Also retorqued the lower pinch bolts to 15nm to relieve a little stress on the kinda thin fork tubes. Manual called for 25nm, but have read a little of the fork tube drama on the adv rider forum fork tube thread. Reducing the clamping pressure appears to help with the wear issues that some have experienced. Will keep an eye on how that works out...

]
 

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Thanks @DCTFAN , good idea, what with the quality of setup, so far.

Loosened up pinch bolts and axle nut, the tightened up everything in sequence from the shop manual, with appropriate bouncing around, in between steps.

Didn't notice any changes. Gap pictures before and after, below: there was about a 1mm gap that stayed consistent.

Shop Manual shows a plastic cover for the hex head of the front axle bolt/nut. Anyone get one of those? I did not.

RHS before:

View attachment 53331

RHS after:

View attachment 53332

LHS before:
View attachment 53333
LHS after:

View attachment 53334




Nothing particularly noteworthy that I can observe.

Also retorqued the lower pinch bolts to 15nm to relieve a little stress on the kinda thin fork tubes. Manual called for 25nm, but have read a little of the fork tube drama on the adv rider forum fork tube thread. Reducing the clamping pressure appears to help with the wear issues that some have experienced. Will keep an eye on how that works out...

]
Thank you for the photos and tips. I'll do the same.
 
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