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So it seems my speedo is almost 10% off and since I am a little bit --- lets just say particular about that --- I would like to fix that. After a short look around on the bike I came to the conclusion the speed is not taken as with many other bikes I owned from the from wheel or the rear wheel.

That got my mind thinking. If the speed information comes from somewhere in the gearbox, it should be possible to correct the speedo by changing sprockets. Has anybody attempted that or am I on my own with that?
 

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So it seems my speedo is almost 10% off and since I am a little bit --- lets just say particular about that --- I would like to fix that. After a short look around on the bike I came to the conclusion the speed is not taken as with many other bikes I owned from the from wheel or the rear wheel.

That got my mind thinking. If the speed information comes from somewhere in the gearbox, it should be possible to correct the speedo by changing sprockets. Has anybody attempted that or am I on my own with that?


Since the VS sensor pick-up is on the gearbox countershaft, increasing your final gearing by an equal percentage will correct the speedo. This solution would make for an awful tall first gear. The other solution is a black box calibrator unit that sits between the VS sensor and the ECM. https://www.healtech-electronics.com/products/sh/
 

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My AT reads 10% over, when I swapped the front sprocket for a 15 tooth it read 15% over, as fuelpincher says you could alter the ration but unless highway cruising is your thing it would be horribly sluggish. personally I love the response after dropping from16T to 15T at the front, Some people say don't do this on a DCT, take it from me it works fine.

Now to fix the overreading, you need to buy a speedo healer from Healtech..... I purchased the version that was supposed to work with the DCT, after hours of stripping the bike down to access the VS sensor is discovered hat it was a lot neater and easier to open up the loom on the right side and splice it in there. I suspect this would work fine on a manual but on the DCT it played havoc, the bike wouldn't get beyond 1st gear, lit a "check engine" light which took 5 attempts to clear, they have obviously never actually tested it. It did however work in test mode and did in fact heal the speedo (provided you didn't want to go above 1st.

Refusing to be beaten I looked at the issue. I put a scope on the output of the VS sensor and the healer, the healer was messing with the signal that was being sent to the ECU, this was causing all manner of transmission issues. The healer should intercept the signal after the ECU not before it.

If you want to fit a speedo healer (this will work for manual or DCT) I suggest this approach. It is much quicker, much easier and it actually works.

1) Take the Healtech installation instructions and wipe your bottom with them
2) Remove right side fairing panel, air filter cover and anything stopping you from accessing the grey 12 way connector.
3) Separate the connector, release it from its mount. and cut the loom tape back a bit
4) On the half of the connector that runs back to the ECU (as opposed to the half that runs to the cockpit display) locate the Pink (signal), Green (ground) and Black/Red (12v) wires.
5) Splice the Black from the SH (SpeedoHealer) to the Green.
6) Splice the Red from the SH to the Black/Red
7) Cut the pink wire
8) Connect the White from the SH to the Pink wire from the loom
9) Connect the Green from the SH to the Pink wire from the connector

I personally use solder and heatshrink to make the joins then remake the loom with loom tape, but you could use the things supplied in the kit, it would be easier but not as neat.
 

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My AT reads 10% over, when I swapped the front sprocket for a 15 tooth it read 15% over, as fuelpincher says you could alter the ration but unless highway cruising is your thing it would be horribly sluggish. personally I love the response after dropping from16T to 15T at the front, Some people say don't do this on a DCT, take it from me it works fine.

Now to fix the overreading, you need to buy a speedo healer from Healtech..... I purchased the version that was supposed to work with the DCT, after hours of stripping the bike down to access the VS sensor is discovered hat it was a lot neater and easier to open up the loom on the right side and splice it in there. I suspect this would work fine on a manual but on the DCT it played havoc, the bike wouldn't get beyond 1st gear, lit a "check engine" light which took 5 attempts to clear, they have obviously never actually tested it. It did however work in test mode and did in fact heal the speedo (provided you didn't want to go above 1st.

Refusing to be beaten I looked at the issue. I put a scope on the output of the VS sensor and the healer, the healer was messing with the signal that was being sent to the ECU, this was causing all manner of transmission issues. The healer should intercept the signal after the ECU not before it.

If you want to fit a speedo healer (this will work for manual or DCT) I suggest this approach. It is much quicker, much easier and it actually works.

1) Take the Healtech installation instructions and wipe your bottom with them
2) Remove right side fairing panel, air filter cover and anything stopping you from accessing the grey 12 way connector.
3) Separate the connector, release it from its mount. and cut the loom tape back a bit
4) On the half of the connector that runs back to the ECU (as opposed to the half that runs to the cockpit display) locate the Pink (signal), Green (ground) and Black/Red (12v) wires.
5) Splice the Black from the SH (SpeedoHealer) to the Green.
6) Splice the Red from the SH to the Black/Red
7) Cut the pink wire
8) Connect the White from the SH to the Pink wire from the loom
9) Connect the Green from the SH to the Pink wire from the connector

I personally use solder and heatshrink to make the joins then remake the loom with loom tape, but you could use the things supplied in the kit, it would be easier but not as neat.
Awesome right up, thanks for posting up, it will save me a heap of time & frustration.
Im about to do the same to my DCT after fitting 15 tooth countershaft sprocket like you did, I'm just contemplating which speedo correction device to use ether the speedo healer or the SpeedoDRD H3
 

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My AT reads 10% over, when I swapped the front sprocket for a 15 tooth it read 15% over, as fuelpincher says you could alter the ration but unless highway cruising is your thing it would be horribly sluggish. personally I love the response after dropping from16T to 15T at the front, Some people say don't do this on a DCT, take it from me it works fine.

Now to fix the overreading, you need to buy a speedo healer from Healtech..... I purchased the version that was supposed to work with the DCT, after hours of stripping the bike down to access the VS sensor is discovered hat it was a lot neater and easier to open up the loom on the right side and splice it in there. I suspect this would work fine on a manual but on the DCT it played havoc, the bike wouldn't get beyond 1st gear, lit a "check engine" light which took 5 attempts to clear, they have obviously never actually tested it. It did however work in test mode and did in fact heal the speedo (provided you didn't want to go above 1st.

Refusing to be beaten I looked at the issue. I put a scope on the output of the VS sensor and the healer, the healer was messing with the signal that was being sent to the ECU, this was causing all manner of transmission issues. The healer should intercept the signal after the ECU not before it.

If you want to fit a speedo healer (this will work for manual or DCT) I suggest this approach. It is much quicker, much easier and it actually works.

1) Take the Healtech installation instructions and wipe your bottom with them
2) Remove right side fairing panel, air filter cover and anything stopping you from accessing the grey 12 way connector.
3) Separate the connector, release it from its mount. and cut the loom tape back a bit
4) On the half of the connector that runs back to the ECU (as opposed to the half that runs to the cockpit display) locate the Pink (signal), Green (ground) and Black/Red (12v) wires.
5) Splice the Black from the SH (SpeedoHealer) to the Green.
6) Splice the Red from the SH to the Black/Red
7) Cut the pink wire
8) Connect the White from the SH to the Pink wire from the loom
9) Connect the Green from the SH to the Pink wire from the connector

I personally use solder and heatshrink to make the joins then remake the loom with loom tape, but you could use the things supplied in the kit, it would be easier but not as neat.
Thanks again for the write up, saved me over 6 hrs of extra work, I fitted a SpeedoDRD H3 to my DCT yesterday ( same fitment as the speed healer bar the wiring colours on the unit) that was like yours being 15% out, took less than an 1hr to fit & calibrate:grin2: great to be able to rely on the speedo again instead of having to look at the GPS on my phone, speed cameras everywhere here with multiple changes in speed limits in small distances so an accurate speedo is a must
 

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My speedo is right on my GPS speed. First time I had a correct one since riding again.
'18 ATASDCT
Love this bike.
 
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