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Update to my starting problem issue......I put a new battery in it months ago, leave it on a charger when its home otherwise its had ZERO issues while away two weeks at a time or longer. I don't understand all this battery drama and diagnosis......put a new battery in it and go ride!
 

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My Afi seems to have lost the cold start set up ?

it wont start without opening the throttle and some times wont start for ages from cold

my dealer has scanned the sensors and cant find anything wrong but acknowledges there is a problem with my bike as he has had issues starting the bike and has asked me to book it in for a through check and he will try to find the problem. it pops and hisses when it does start but runs okay when warm

has anyone else had a problem and what was the cure

I know how to start a modern bike up so it is not me

ECU has been re set and a sweep of all sensors has been done with no issues
Same issue during past 2 weeks. Getting worst with days.
When I pickup the motorcycle new at the dealer, the salesman who is also very experienced rider, told me that sometimes if don't want to start, just move from side stand to ride position and back. He has been riding for months his own AT, he said that for experience with his own. That sounds weird to me at that time, but somebody else here talked about tilt sensor, then could be related.
Last Friday was very bad, it's doesn't want to start at all, but I hear the battery almost dead, I had an injury in my arm, I couldn't ride for this 2 weeks, just starting to get it warm the engine.
When I get it to start (after many tries), I decide to take a little ride nearby, just to warn up not only the oil, also brakes and shake the motorcycle as well.
After driving for half an hour or so, I decide to stop it and try to start again, it works like a charm! I start suspecting from battery and tilt sensor little bit more.
Now it's OK after start riding everyday since there. Looks like charging battery and shake the motorcycle, maybe could "fix" the issue in my case. 3 days and no issues at all.
 

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Anyone have any leak issues? Someone on ADrider in the owners section just posted pics of a leak he has on a standard bike where coolant looks to be seeping out of a press fitting on the right side of the engine.
Doesn't sound like a starting problem which this topic is about.
 

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I really believe one of the core problems is the poor idle mixture when the bike is cold. I am at sea level so I am extra lean. Like others, when its warm or slightly warm I have 0 problems. I will be installing a Rapid Bike Easy on my bike within the next week in order to richen the idle. I will reports back to see if it has made a difference.

I have also changed the battery and cleaned the switch mechanism extensively.
 

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I've noticed that my AT has been getting harder to start lately. It's not that it doesn't start, for instance, this very day it took until the 6th attempt for it to catch properly and fire up. That's been the worst so far with other times taking 3 or 4 goes. Then on a few odd occasions, it'd start and the revs would race up the tacho to about 4K before settling down to idle.

So, I popped into my dealer to book it in for its 8k mile service and mentioned the problem. Turns out I'm now getting a new right switch cluster as it's a known fault with the starter button.
 

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I've noticed that my AT has been getting harder to start lately. It's not that it doesn't start, for instance, this very day it took until the 6th attempt for it to catch properly and fire up. That's been the worst so far with other times taking 3 or 4 goes. Then on a few odd occasions, it'd start and the revs would race up the tacho to about 4K before settling down to idle.

So, I popped into my dealer to book it in for its 8k mile service and mentioned the problem. Turns out I'm now getting a new right switch cluster as it's a known fault with the starter button.
Mine just started doing that this week, 6-7 times to start, racing up the rev range too on occasion. Doesn't seem to make any difference whether it is hot or cold. Saving that and a spokes warranty claim for deeper winter when I can do without it!
 

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Mine sat for a couple weeks and then it took several attempts for it to start. First time it's ever not started up right away. Anyway the first day of the trip it took 2 attempts each time to start. Day two it went back to normal. Even started up one cold morning at 0°C first attempt and idled fine. I had to run some ethanol gas through at the end of the last time I used it before it sat for a while so that might have had something to do with it.
 

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My Afi seems to have lost the cold start set up ?

it wont start without opening the throttle and some times wont start for ages from cold

my dealer has scanned the sensors and cant find anything wrong but acknowledges there is a problem with my bike as he has had issues starting the bike and has asked me to book it in for a through check and he will try to find the problem. it pops and hisses when it does start but runs okay when warm

has anyone else had a problem and what was the cure

I know how to start a modern bike up so it is not me

ECU has been re set and a sweep of all sensors has been done with no issues
My dealer told me Honda were replacing starter switch foc for anyone reporting starting problems, not a true re-call warranty thing but they are authorising it just the same. Change mine not had any issues since
 

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The start issue is 100% the Kill switch! I know it sounds silly but it is! I never hit my kill switch just turned the key off. I started getting the start issue, and it was persistent and happened EVERY time I tried to fire the bike up! I have recently (past two months) started using the kill switch to kill the bike, and slowly (I assume the use cleans the contact terminals in the switch.) the issue has gone away! I have had no starting issue in about two weeks now! :) my machine is a 2016 manual with 16,000 miles.
 

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I started having this issue yesterday when I was riding back from Canada to NYC. I stopped for gas and the bike would not turn on.

I had tools with me, but I did not want to start playing with the switch, I just wanted to get home. So I solved it temporarily by turning the key off, and rocking the kill switch from off to start like a madman. After 20 or 30 clicks, I turned the key back on and I was able to hear the sweet sound of the fuel pump. Bike started right up.

Just wanted to share my story in case any of you all of the sudden get the issue and you don't have tools or are not able to start messing with the switch.
 

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I have 2017 AT standard model (no DCT)

I have had this same thing happen to me. Intermittent and for a while I thought it was due to very low fuel levels in the tank, but the last few days I had it happen even when warmed up and fully tanked.
Will kick over fine but when I let go of the starter button, it cuts out.
If I rev it as I let go of the starter button (a bit of a hand Yoga excersize) it stays on.
I have also made sure that I let the fuel pump prime up before kicking it over.
(i.e. flick starter in run mode and listen for the fuel pump to finish its start up priming)

I got 8800km on it and the bike is less than 6mth old so will be taking it in for service soon and will mention to the mech.

Interesting thread. Hope this is a simple fix.
Thanks guys
 

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I have a 2017 model & found that the high low beam light switch also would not connect the high beams. I would have to play around with rocking the switch quite a couple of times before high beam would stay on. My starter switch has always worked so far. but sometimes it starts with a bit more effort. Since my light switch has had a visible problem, I am watching the start switch now.. To ask the you out there having start problems, does the fuel pump prime before you push the switch to the starter? (This is of course when the switch is on run & you turn the ignition on.)
 

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This from a previous thread - seems to work well. Also make sure the breather tubes are clear as that also seems to affect starting - don't understand why but it works.

Hey all, I took my 2016 manual AT in to the dealer for the hard starting issue. 1700 miles and was getting harder to start 40-55F weather. Throttle Position Sensor was the problem. The dealer told me this is what Honda told them to do. The fix is simple, turn the key on and wait for the

screen to display the CRF symbol and turn ignition off. Hold down the starter button and throttle open all the way open for 5 seconds and this resets the TPS. This has fixed my hard starting issue and no problems since then.

Thanks, Onetime39
 

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I am having the same problem with my 2016. Sometimes it cranks great and other times does not want to crank at all. Does not happen very often when its warmed up. Bike runs great otherwise with 7300 miles on it. Not sure what could be causing this issue
 

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Had a start problem with my bike from day 1. It would start and then after maybe a second it would stop. It always restarted ok and ran fine after a restart. Seemed to occur most on cool evenings, around midnight when the temperature was below 15C.

I worked out by trail and error that turning on the ignition, waiting for the start sequence to finish, ie the dash settles down, open and close the throttle fully then start. Never had a problem since. Suspect it may be related to the throttle position sensor. I filmed it a couple of times on my mobile so I had something to show the dealer but to be honest, my work around keeps me happy now.

The issue RMS reports about the bike not wanting to crank. Well a few times I've thought my battery may be on its way out because I've noticed something similar. I've since put that down to where in its firing cycle that the engine has stopped previously effecting the effort needed by the starter to initially crank it over.

I could of course be completely wrong but there are times when the starter seems to struggle to initially crank the engine (not start) whereas most times it seems to spin very freely.
 

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Hi all, my bike recently developed the stall after start/stop switch release, despite firing up immediately. I'm putting it down to moisture in the switch housing since the bike was left outside overnight in heavy rain over the weekend. Keeping the engine slightly revved while releasing the switch kept the bike alive, albeit with a dip then a spike in revs then resumed normal idle.

So I'm going to have a look at that hose under the engine to check for fluid, then try the reset procedure, and lastly I'll open the housing for a clean. I have a couple of questions regarding the housing dismantle process. Do I open the housing up only, or remove the switch itself from the housing after removing from bars? If yes is it straightforward or will springs and other important small items go flying?

And another question regarding dielectric grease. I'm based in Istanbul where they dont use the term dielectric grease. I've read that dielectric grease is also known as silicone grease....which is also a rare item here. I've found diving stores selling products like the one in the link below. Can someone tell me if it is the same as the silicone grease I need?

ok, so apparently I cant post links due to my low post count, but the product I am referring to is this:

Problue AC-45 Silicone Grease 60gm


Cheers
 

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Forgot to mention, I'm going to Romania for the Transfagarsan/Transalpina next week, thinking of taking a spare basic start stop button as a spare in case I cant get the bike started. Would this be an option, can I wire one up without much hassle?
 

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Do I open the housing up only, or remove the switch itself from the housing after removing from bars? If yes is it straightforward or will springs and other important small items go flying?
Open the housing while it is mounted on the bars, nothing will fly out. If you decide to disassemble the connector inside to further clean and grease, then yes, there is a spring in there so be careful.

Problue AC-45 Silicone Grease 60gm[/B]

Cheers
Seems to be the correct one. Make sure is clear and it smells like silicone, sometimes those greases are colored and I don't know if the dye affects conductivity.
 
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