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I wish @GrrrlX and I could say the same. I actually really prefer the Sena devices. But she and I have had issues with water egress into one or more units with the SMH-10, the 20S, and 20S Evo. While they always dried out and eventually worked, save 1 SMH-10 (R.I.P), we eventually got tired of losing comms to one unit or the other at some point every year and eventually picked up a pair of the PackTalk Bolds.

We have not had water issues with the Cardo at all, but I do feel the noise canceling on the Cardos is at times too aggressive and cuts out communication. Sometimes after 2 or 3 words, I will suddenly only pick up bits and pieces of what follows. I have put some electrical tape around the outer edge of her microphone and that seems to help. I think it is just too sensitive to the airflow coming in from the front of the helmet at times.

If Sena would make a fully waterproof unit I would go back to using Sena in a heartbeat, but I am tempted to try a cover on the 50S.
Maybe the seals on the Sena get too dry and brittle with our lack of humidity? No idea. I know several folks here in Colorado who have had similar issues with them though.
That’s weird, none of the guys I ride with have ever had a water failure except one with the rubber usb port left open but that’s not really Sena’s fault.

It’s probably actually super easy to proper waterproof one with some gasket sealer and a few minutes if you just crack the case open.

Mine have been through some serious amounts of rain.

I lived in Utah for a few years with the SMH-10 and never any issues out there either, and have been though summer in AZ with the same unit, no issues going back to the northeast into rain again with that SMH-10.

Were the USB ports rubber gaskets in place? It’s easy to leave them open after charging, that’s one downside to those rubber port cover’s.

I’ve never paid more than about 150 for any of the Sena’s I‘ve used either. It seems crazy how expensive some of them are now for a voice communicator that doesn’t do anything different than the basic SMH-10 from over a decade ago. I guess if you ride in large groups? I’ve never had much fun riding in large packs of bikes so the 4 person limit of the basic 10 series was never a factor.

I know the SMH-10 used an o-ring to seal the inside because I’ve taken that one apart. Maybe those deteriorate in the desert heat after a while. Some silicon on that would probably restore any lost water resistance.
 

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Were the USB ports rubber gaskets in place? It’s easy to leave them open after charging, that’s one downside to those rubber port cover’s.
Definitely in place. That was my initial thought as well when we first had issues with the SMH-10 units. The rubber covers on the SMH-10 is a little flimsy and could work its way loose if not really careful. We had hoped the upgrade to the 20S and 20S Evo would address issues since the cover is a bit more ridged and easier to secure.

They don't close much more secure than this, but we continued to have issues with them. So we changed over to the Cardo, as have several others in our club.

Here is a link from Sena's site to a post about the issue.




That USB Port is in the rear of the unit as well, so it isn't as though rain is being driven into it. I suspect the water gets in around the rotary dial. A fair amount of water has gotten into them at times as well.

But I do get annoyed with the cut-out issues we seem to have with my wife's helmet with the Cardo. We have tried swapping mics, swapping units, etc. Whatever the issue with that seems specific to her helmet, bike or something. Can't seem to solve it.
Finger Camera accessory Metal Gadget Fashion accessory


Sent from my SM-S918U1 using Tapatalk
 

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Yeah the Can Am Ryker (the smaller trike) has a fully automatic via cvt technology.

The new spyders are semi automatic. Theyshift down, but not up.
My buddy's Can-Am's are not the Ryker versions. They are the full sized Can-Ams and they have the semi-automatics.

By the way, didn't Ford also have some form of the DCT system? And, if I recall, they had some serious issues with it AFTER many of their products were already on the street. Lots of recalls I think.
Scott
 

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By the way, didn't Ford also have some form of the DCT system? And, if I recall, they had some serious issues with it AFTER many of their products were already on the street. Lots of recalls I think.
Scott
Ford has had a few. Shelby GT500 comes to mind as one that worked well, but I believe the Ford Focus is the one you are referring to.

Edit: Fiesta as well I believe
 

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2022 CRF1100 ATAS ES DCT
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How are the DCT bikes for doing tight turns? I've always been taught to keep the RPM up and feather the clutch to keep the bike balanced.
You can use the back brake to do the same as the clutch although having said that my 2022 ATAS doesn't really require the back brake be used as much as my 2021 did.
 

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2023 Africa Twin 1100 manual (on backorder)
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My main maneuvers why I like manual more:

Revving to create inertia for balance, pulling the clutch, short blip of throttle and you can basically stand still in place.

Ability to "just pull the clutch", DCT and whisky throttle on whoops and other terrain sketches me out.

Feathering the clutch to regain/increase traction, sometimes I like to very quickly pop the clutch in and out when going through deep puddles as to create some weight transfer.

Being able to pull out of stuff in 2nd or even 3rd gear, sometimes things get super muddy and sending 100hp to the rear wheel doesn't help. Getting into higher gear and burning some clutch at least gives you a chance to get out of real bad mud.

Dropping the bike into corners, brake to almost full stop then pull the clutch real quickly until the bike starts tipping over, once maxed out on lean angle release again and throttle on. Turning radius instantly gone. Also helps keeping the power band offroad, slam the rear brake, pull clutch, wait for rear to come around, release clutch and power out.
 

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You said it all (y) :
  • it still feels like a manual clutch
  • feel is critical to the enjoyment of the bike.
  • I can override at any time and get perfect up or downshifts with my finger shifters
  • it works fantastic.
  • people think an automatic is an automatic so they won't pay more for the DCT
  • faster doing a uturn now that before because of DCT
  • Standard clutch having some advantage? I'm not finding much
I can only think of wheelies and for hopping up and over obstacles. I know people have videos out how to do this on a dct but I'm still finding that tricky still.
But for the rest of it the dct wins hands down in my book.
 

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As mentioned in past posts: Honda's DCT is an intermediate offering enroute to a full-on EV future where DCT and related steam punk technologies in the domain will be obsolete. The question is whether or not you'll be in your rocking chair by that time.
 

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How are the DCT bikes for doing tight turns? I've always been taught to keep the RPM up and feather the clutch to keep the bike balanced.
Easy, I don't use the rear brake hardly at all. Mine has superb slow speed manors and almost has a bit of a feather the clutch feeling of engagement with gentle throttle inputs (it's not a sudden "100% power, more like a gentle taper). It's honestly easier than a clutch bike now, you can't stall it. And I got used to consistent throttle turns so my u-turns actually improved, I was using the clutch too much to cut power before instead of just getting used to a constant speed u-turn.

For off road it's easier, no stalling and you can tractor through stuff so easy without wheel spin at basically idle if you want. Actually there isn't a lot of wheel spin going on unless I want it for off-road.

You can do crazy tight u-turns with the steering lock on the AT.
 

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I think it's also brilliant that Honda covered "every angle" to satisfy even the most demanding riders, offering these flavors of Africa Twin (GW etc);
  • AT c/w clutch lever and foot shifter
  • AT c/w clutch lever and foot quick shifter
  • AT DCT "full Automatic D,S1,S2,S3"
  • AT DCT c/w "no clutch lever and foot shifter"
  • AT c/w DCT "full Manual paddle shifting" **
** - (while in Manual - M mode) DCT will start the "downshifting sequence automatically" if you slow down rapidly and "forget" to downshift through the gears.
I am not sure if the system will also "automatically up shift" if you redline the gear ? (to protect the engine and transmission)


PS: I bought my DCT so I can exclusively ride it in "M mode using paddles" not interested in D,S1,2,3 modes...for now, maybe that will change when I grow old(er) :unsure:
🤔And they still come in manual :LOL:
 

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I think riders on those two makes are even more dedicated to hand clutch/foot shift tech and tradition than those who considered the DCT and still bought manual.
At first blush I'd agree, until you see how many new (unskilled) or returning (rusty) riders are buying those big bikes now.
 

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2016 Honda CRF 1000L Manual
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What I wish I had known about was auto clutches.

They won’t auto shift for you, but I like the idea of a best of both worlds scenario. You get some anti stall protection, and still have the option of panic grabbing the clutch to cut all power.

I’m still the noob here and trying to find where I’d be happiest. Rekluse doesn’t make an auto clutch for the 1100 though, so I’d need to go with EFM and have my stock one modified if I wanted to go that way.
We've canvased this idea in some other threads like this:


As a 2016 manual rider I could definitely use a nicely tuned Rekluse.
 

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Definitely in place. That was my initial thought as well when we first had issues with the SMH-10 units. The rubber covers on the SMH-10 is a little flimsy and could work its way loose if not really careful. We had hoped the upgrade to the 20S and 20S Evo would address issues since the cover is a bit more ridged and easier to secure.

They don't close much more secure than this, but we continued to have issues with them. So we changed over to the Cardo, as have several others in our club.

Here is a link from Sena's site to a post about the issue.




That USB Port is in the rear of the unit as well, so it isn't as though rain is being driven into it. I suspect the water gets in around the rotary dial. A fair amount of water has gotten into them at times as well.

But I do get annoyed with the cut-out issues we seem to have with my wife's helmet with the Cardo. We have tried swapping mics, swapping units, etc. Whatever the issue with that seems specific to her helmet, bike or something. Can't seem to solve it. View attachment 80266

Sent from my SM-S918U1 using Tapatalk
Actually the rotary button is packed with white grease to keep the water out, there are also two "plastic separators" under the button to create an obstacle for water. I added more white grease when I had to remove the rotary button to open up the 20S to replace the battery.
 

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Actually the rotary button is packed with white grease to keep the water out, there are also two "plastic separators" under the button to create an obstacle for water. I added more white grease when I had to remove the rotary button to open up the 20S to replace the battery.
Something isn't working with a number of them. If you read those links, my wife and I are definitely not alone in our struggles with them :)

This guy seems to think that water is finding its way in from a few different areas. He may br correct.


Here is our collection of the 20S/20S Evo. I may put them up for sale "Slightly used, slightly wet" Or "Rode Hard, put away wet?" :)

Glove Camera lens Digital camera Watch Reflex camera
 
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