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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hello guys and gals. Last night my 12V socket (dealer installed) made a buzz and stopped working. My first thought was to replace the blown fuse, but I'm not seeing a fuse for it. My second thought was that the fuse was in-line, but upon looking at the harness, there isn't an in-line either (photo attached for reference). Everything else seems to be working, although I forgot to check the heated grips. Any ideas where I should look?
 

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If memory serves, the plastic connector holds a blade fuse.
Remember that fuses normally blow for a reason to protect the system, so try to troubleshoot or have the dealer do it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
OH WOW I didn't even see that. It's a mini fuse then. That should be an easy fix, but dang, all the wires are tucked in behind the plastics. That's a bummer. Fuses need to be readily available to replace. OK thanks!
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Sooo... I went to pull the upper fairing off and after removing the top six bolts, there were clearly some hidden ones holding it all together. Short on time I screwed it back together and went on my way. Today I thought I'd try to get to the harness through a small gap in the plastic, underneath. To make more room I was going to pull the headlight bulb cover off. NO CAN DO. My two previous bikes just had a rubber tab to pull and you have easy access to the bulbs. This looks like it has it, but nothing moves. What gives?! I can't take this bike to the dealership for 3 hours of work to change a fuse or replace a headlight bulb. COME ON, HONDA!
 

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When I raised this as a potential problem with my dealer I was told not to worry as it is a warranty issue. I have watched a video of fitting the socket on YouTube I think the guy is Harland or something like that. In reality it would appear that if you know whatvyouvare doing it should only take about 20 minutes or so to strip off the plastics replace the fuse and about another 20 minutes, at most, to put it all back together. At what point did the buzz occur? Did you just plug something in or switch something on etc? A random buzz and failure is a worry if that was the case.
 

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I routed my inline fuse holder beside the plug so it sticks out and I dont need to remove any plastics to replace it. It's a cheapo custom job usb charger though, I dont know how routable the factory fuse holder is. Might be worth looking into when you do finally tackle it, so you only have to take it apart once.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Headlights are led. Sooo there's no changing them
Yeah, I did get that rubber ring off. I just didn't want to pull too hard for fear of ripping it. It didn't help though.

At what point did the buzz occur?
I was fiddling around and turned the key off and on a few times while something was plugged in, so I'll take part of the blame. That aside, the bad design of making the fuse inaccessible, is not on me!

I routed my inline fuse holder beside the plug so it sticks out and I dont need to remove any plastics to replace it. It's a cheapo custom job usb charger though, I dont know how routable the factory fuse holder is. Might be worth looking into when you do finally tackle it, so you only have to take it apart once.
That would have been a better option, there's a smidgen of room behind the plug where they could have made it accessible. I'm going to install a panel mounted fuse holder -probably into an unused nearby button space- and route a line back to the fuse. I prefer the blade, but will install the round glass one if the blade doesn't fit.
 

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Yeah, I did get that rubber ring off. I just didn't want to pull too hard for fear of ripping it. It didn't help though.


I was fiddling around and turned the key off and on a few times while something was plugged in, so I'll take part of the blame. That aside, the bad design of making the fuse inaccessible, is not on me!


That would have been a better option, there's a smidgen of room behind the plug where they could have made it accessible. I'm going to install a panel mounted fuse holder -probably into an unused nearby button space- and route a line back to the fuse. I prefer the blade, but will install the round glass one if the blade doesn't fit.
Sorry mate, not a good idea mounting the fuse next to the socket, you want to mount the fuse as close as you can to the battery, the fuse is used to protect the bike not the socket, the fuse wont blow if you have a short in the wiring loom before the fuse which could cause the wiring to catch fire & burn your bike to the ground:eek:
 

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I am afraid getting to the fuse of the 12V power socket is a bummer. My fuse did blow somewhere in Tadjikistan while operating an electric pump trying to inflate the rear tyre inner tube we had just changed on a colleague's bike. I found out the hard way that the fuse is only 7.5A while my pump was generating approx. 10A - at least this is what it writes on it. Somebody else had a more robust power socket and we continued without a problem.

After we were back I removed left, right and front plastics to change the fuse and found out it is a relatively involved process which for the first time takes 1.5-2 hours. I did put a 10A fuse in there as I am pretty sure the wiring can take it but since then I am only using the power socket for my GPS - I operate the electric pump by connecting it directly to the battery terminals through wiring with a 10A fuse I did put together.

Beware of asking demanding current from the 12V power socket as the fuse is only 7.5A and it is in a very awkward place, which means it cannot be really replaced while en route.
 

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took me 20 min to remove all the plastic and the plastic behind that around the light installed a splitter harness onto the 4 pin connector behind the dash i hooked up my usb socket that i stuck in the 12v hole area the other connector i will use for my driving lights when i add them. i have read on here someone said there was a fuse up in there some place not true at all the fuse that runs that wire and the other 2 keyed connectors that you can use run off the op10 amp fuse in the fuse panel
 
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